Gixer1460

If you've blocked the oil jets up the studs where are you sourcing hi pressure oil to feed the cams and cam bearings from?

Please explain what you've done exactly as what you've said doesn't make sense - assuming this is a GSXR and not a GS / GSX!

Bit of a broad, all encompassing statement considering you are 'only' shooting for 250hp ! ! ! 'TD04', is only a family name for many variants and like most turbo's, the turbine & compressor sides can be changed and varied to produce a myriad of outputs and responses! I'm sure there are 'TD04's' that have produced in excess of 300hp - maybe not in ideal conditions but proves that one should not to be so dismissive - hell, an old T3 Garrett can be pushed to 250hp easy enough!

Don't apologise - some obviously don't. Assumption is the mother of all fuck-up's!

At last someone has stated the obvious ! ! ! With a 3 & 4 spark problem it can't be coils! It can be leads / plug caps or plugs. This of course assuming the OP isn't trying to run 1 & 2 off one coil and 3 & 4 off the other DOH!

General wisdom for idle settings is, if screws are more than a turn to a turn & a quarter out from stock then a upsize on the idle jet is needed - yours still seems to be within the acceptable range. Garage tuning is ok up to a point, the engine really needs some load put on it to really see what its doing / needs - so its road time or dyno time!

Here in UK the Subtitles are in Russian as well, so not much help LOL!

As Dyna coils have many years use across thousands of installations, many used in excess of 13-14k+ rpm's, high CR, Turbo and Nitrous equipped engines without problem, it possibly points to a problem with your particular Mini coils (i've never used them personally as I prefer the 'old chunkies LOL!) Any coil set up working correctly will support extreme installations - a good spark delivered at the correct time will be the same as any other, so it would be virtually impossible to 'improve' on that unless the system was substandard. Guessing here maybe whatever you are using to drive the coils can't charge them adequately so its not a coil problem at all?

Fit a couple of complete valve assemblies ie. std spring seat, valve, springs, spring retainer and collets + additional 0.06" shim under the std. spring seat. Then measure the height of the spring between the spring seat and underside of the spring retainer - this is the 'installed height' - lets say its 2" or 50mm! Disassemble and grab a spring tester, clamp the spring to be tested on the tester and compress to the installed height ie 2" or 50mm and read off poundage achieved! Most people don't bother unless its a high value / high rpm racing engine as to be truly accurate the spring seats in the head should be all milled to the same height before measuring the installed heights, then measure the spring pressures, then adjust the added 0.060" shim thickness to add or subtract spring pressure. As said a complete faff done 16 times ! ! !

I can't recall anyone ever complaining the internal shaft splines in the gears ever got worn? Holes in a shaft are ultimately a weak point so if Robinson's don't include them its for a reason as race bike transmissions are a far more stressed environment. Generally most gearboxes survive on splash lube so the OEM holes may have been found to be superfluous?

IMO i'd go back to stock or near stock settings ie. MJ @ 125 or maybe 127.5 (for the K&N and pipe) as I guess the majority richness is from the mid range ie. needles where overall fuelling is fed via the mains. Killing plugs with over fuelling is a money pit - I'd rather know its lean without killing plugs at £10 / hole and work from there or put sensible head on. pony up and stick it on a decent dyno with a load brake! PS - 40's are a royal PITA to get carbing right - just so you know LOL!

I ordered up some MTC 1216 10:1 pistons with upgraded tool steel wrist pins, part #MTC-R1216T These are good pistons and rather than spacer the block to drop the CR, personally i'd machine the piston crowns (which I believe are flat on these) to add a slight dish. This does two things, first it preserves the squish band which is beneficial for anti detonation and secondly it puts a concentrated mixture right below the ignition source for the best burn. I've done the spacer thing (cos I had 12.5:1 pistons LOL) but it ruins the squish and not good for outright power IMO. Going to do my best to track down some sort of head spacer to drop the compression down to 8.5:1 to be a little safer and find someone to bore out my jugs (heh). See above Answers in RED again.

If they are in spec it's unlikely. Mostly you won't be reving that high anyway!

Why do that as it's easier to deck the top of the barrels - don't have to remove liners either!

'Usual' and 'normally' are subjective - the correct pressure is the one that keeps the bowls full and doesn't leak . . . . . its 'trial and error' tuning!

Answers in RED

Unless I'm reading the OP wrong - the EFE comes with the cams and 1200 kit fitted so no additional expenditure and 'comparable' power but much torquey ! I do love the Oil boilers but a Kat deserves the OSS anchor!

Be wary where the ARP bolts come from as it's not unknown for them to be copied.

You've answered your own question then as regards reliability and suitability! I've never heard of different BE 'sizes' other than alternative bearing fits due to grinding, journal sizing is just like any normal rod / main bearing ! They aren't Carillo's and will unlikely to be any worse than stock so what's to loose?

I figure your planning on well north of 600+ hp then LOL!

Not sure how long a valve would last in a potentially boosted environment? The smart money usually uses ignition timing for idle control - a quick raise in timing just before stall zone, ups engine speed to the normal control area.

I'm no specialist on exhaust smoke but if it was burning oil on the over run it should / usually is blue. A grey smoke I think is a lean condition but don't quote me - ideally you want no smoke whatsoever LOL!

They are relatively easy to disassemble - could be just a dirty commutator or brushes - 5 minutes with a toothbrush and alcohol may cure it!

Not sure about welding but have seen them done before. I milled a flat in the cover and bolted a plate to take the cam sensor with a pin added between lobes

True but depends on the ECU - I used one with slimmed down big tooth and MoTec and worked fine. The teeth are only points to count so the ECU knows when to trigger an event. I didn't understand any of the maxx stuff above as you can't have sequential without a cam trigger. It's just random without unless someone explains otherwise!