Gixer1460

I've never been that fussed about it - crank has pin that engages with ATU and Dyna rotor fixes on ATU one of two ways. Set plate in middle of slots and fire it up! I suppose you could check exact timing with an adjustable strobe light but never found it necessary!

I don't understand - gsx & efe are interchangable! As regards use of a dyna S!

As to correct speeds - it varies depending on drill material, material to be drilled, cutting oil etc, but here's good 'assumption' chart for guidance. If the hole being drilled is 4x and greater than the diameter of the bit then i'd reduce speeds quoted by half. Too slow is bad, slow - medium is good - too fast is bad also

How about using the steel basket from the 1127 engines - maybe more clearance? Still amazed that peeps 'need' to try this in any 1100 ! ! !

Its not wrong but it would be 'better' if the tap has two outlets to use them to feed the two inlets.

I just looked in the Haynes for the GSX1100 / 1150 and that shows the metal centre of the seal facing out ie. opposite to how it is above. Not sure how different the GS1000 would be, if at all!

That's odd as all the RS flatslides i've ever seen have two inlets one between 1 & 2 and another between 3 & 4! Can be clearly seen in the manual / parts breakdown. Also odd not to have a vacuum port on at least one of the rubbers!

Ah ! What happens if you get the holes wrong and suck all the bath plugs into the engine? LOL! Maybe not the daftest idea ever on OSS but possibly close to it

Having or not having an airbox has nothing to do with airflow. An airbox will flow as much air as an engine needs right through WOT and with a filter in place! Open carbs will rarely be able to use more air than that. The difference between airboxes and open carbs / individually filtered carbs is the 'quality of air delivered' not the quantity! Air boxes are designed to provide a 'still' air reservoir that the engine draws upon - this air is fairly linear in delivery and accelerates through the venturi drawing the fuel up. Open or individual filters pull chaotic air and so have a lesser effect through the venturi - maybe a reason most will need bigger jets whilst producing little more power when run back to back? This chaotic air really messes with CV function also. The dual carb pod K&N's help the two connected carbs have a 'pot' of air - not as good as an airbox but better than singles! Case in point - GSXR1100 'M' 40mm CV's - difficult to tune for pipes etc. WITH an airbox, virtually impossible without! And If I understand your intention - why would you want to bypass the filter with unfiltered air?

Probably very true! Just cos you give an engine a bigger mouth it'll have a correspondingly bigger venturi. That needs a higher airspeed over it to induce low pressure to draw the fuel up . . . . you can increase the MJ to the moon and it'll issue very little more fuel. Suzuki San used 29mm slide and 34mm CV carbs for a reason - good gas speed at majority of operating range. If racing and long periods at high rpm then larger bore carbs can work but they'll have pants midrange!

LOL's - well you did say 'shop services' and that is 'shop services' ! And, I bet they do if you ask them - maybe not 'off the shelf' ?

How in the hell could you miss a section that says 'Shop Services'? - https://www.orientexpress.com/c-99-shop-services.aspx

Just followed the clues Pal - just followed the clues LOL! But the point above regarding the coil resistances is also valid - low ohm COP's draw a lot more amps and OEM CDI's do struggle with that and can over-heat to the point that output falls away - may be something to bear in mind!

Do you read the answers?

As using original ECU it must be running wasted spark and problem with 1 & 4 ties in with this - I'd trace all the wiring for dodgy contact, frayed or partially shorting wire. Looking at MJ and accel pumps doesn't help if the idles or emulsion tubes are dirty - 5 weeks storage / E10 fuel / low fuel level / water vapour contamination ? ? ?

And if the company doing the boring is any good - give them all the pistons and they will bore / hone the barrels to suit each piston and mark them #1,2,3 & 4. Regarding the piston pictured with some scoring - i'd suspect a degree of crushed lands partially trapping the ring? They aren't the strongest in this respect and its a usual point of failure in boosted engines. Valves may look good but until they are out and checked for straightness, the jury is still out!

New York or New York State - they should have a good rep - they've been building Fast Suzuki's for 40+ years!

Pretty much ^^^ said above! MTC pistons have material enough for some decent dish machining - DON'T just machine the tops flat and drop them down the holes! Likewise as you've got turbo pistons - use them to adjust the CR, not spacer plates if they can be avoided! Do not lose the squish band - its worth having, if only for its anti detonation benefits. Love the claim re the Maxspeeding Rods - in what universe have they been tested to that level? Your 400hp aim is admirable, but seriously I think, maybe beyond your means / present understanding ie. like speed, HP costs money and 400hp is going to cost lots. If you can achieve the CR with head and piston work, a normal Blandit base gasket is all that is needed!

Or multiply by 0.6 ! Or get a speedo healer - a gearbox that fits on the back of the speedo so needle uses old numbers but will be in mph.

As my oil rad was curved, having the IC in front of it wasn't an option + personally, sticking another radiator in front of a cooling radiator seems counter productive to me! As my IC is about 2/3rds the area of the oil rad and 2" / 50mm thick, its difficult to fit anywhere 'inconspicuously' LOL!

Seems to have coped ok - having a big battery helps balance the loads, it was a DMS 700 equal to a Varley Red Top 25, 20A/h, 230 CCA.

Well it isn't a race bike, it was built for the road and it is the only cooling. Mind you it does have a billet bespoke big block with extensive finnage so that helps!

Tongue in Cheek remark, sarcasm ! ! ! Besides RS34's ain't standard are they! LOL!

Carbonfibre hugger on mine - I seriously wouldn't run without, engine oil loss is bad enough but oil on a tyre at speed is terminal !

Possibly, but throw a 1085 or 1135 kit at it with RS36's and it'll wake right up . . . . . who builds std. GS1000's anyway