Gixer1460

Not sure Keihin jet threads are same as Mikuni as I seem to remember they used to bind up ! A 2mm difference in bore shouldn't mean carbs won't work - the 1127 engine went from 36's to 40's and worked well, although i'm sure the Suzuki & Mikuni development tech's spent MANY hours on a dyno getting the jetting correct! There is a moral there - 'If you don't understand what to do to correct it - don't fuck with it in the 1st place' LOL! BTW that test track is far to empty to be real !

Because the seals aren't doing their job and oil is getting effectively, 'burnt' hence turning to caramel!

Myths and rumours about bottom connected coolers abound - and they are all bollux! Its been discussed many times before on OSS - simply put, oil comes in one side and out the other. Any air will be pushed out with the first 'injection' of oil. Both ends of the oil lines are submerged below oil level and so, once cooler is full, it WILL NOT drain as air cannot get in to replace the oil - Nature hates a vacuum ! The cooler will only drain when you drain the sump! Its more likely crankcase compression is cause of blowing out a seal - its an unusual one to go, but it happens if non OEM seals used! If you are reaching those temps whilst 'cruising' I'd say your cooler is waaaaaay too small and needs an upgrade especially if dumping turbo heat into it also!

As said deffo not 'bling' and also not available in extensive ranges ie. straight, 45 deg., 90 deg., and maybe 180's - these are run of the mill bits, other may be available but maybe not off the shelf. Also tend to be 'crimp hose' types which can be a PITA sometimes!

You are going to get some aggro! a) you don't own a Suzuki and b) you are asking for info not at all related to Old Suzuki's . . . . . . so be aware! And c) you obviously haven't read the rules or a) and b) wouldn't have occurred!

Normally a gauge reading max indicates its sender wire is grounded - its usually a test to see if gauge is working, ie. ground the sender wire and gauge goes max scale! Obviously gauge has to be powered.

Listening to that . . . . . . . . what a mistake ! As stock, they came with small TB's cos the inlets were small also - all for torque not HP! Unless you hog out the inlets, larger valves, putting FCR41's is a exercise in futility!

Whilst you state you've added components and done some re- rewiring, both of which need some level of electrical understanding, your questions regarding what voltages to look for and what happens when bridging the starter soli, seem to indicate little knowledge? Its concerning me as a badly made wiring harness / poorly earthed component might not fail immediately / fail tomorrow / next week or year but it will cause problems, often with unrelated components or in worse cases melt the loom! Electrical problems being diagnosed over the internet are a guesswork nitemare - good luck, and btw, most of the suggestions are basic principles that shouldn't need suggesting! Flame me if you want but its why I tend to shy away from electrical queries!

That's a new one on me! My GSXR as been standing for about 10+ years and both brake MC's and clutch master function fine! Maybe if they stand after use / dirty / sub-standard anyway, then they suffer?

You are unlikely to get much of a response here - its simply not our thing and the fact that scooters rank even lower than Bandits as desirable, speaks volumes. In the UK you could find most of these (and there like) stolen and dumped in canals. Having a 'Japanese' frame number isn't surprising as they were made, strangely enough, in Japan!

That makes sense as i've wondered what they were made from - deffo lighter than stock steel needles but waaaay harder than a 'hard' aluminium! Oddly I've never had the tube wear like others experienced - the needles wore a virtual flat between idle and mid range - probably where it spent 75% of its time. Shame I didn't know about DJ's needle exchange and the carbs got scrapped for parts !

Its pretty difficult to starve an oil boiler of oil pressure whatever you do - the pump pressure and volume is about twice what engine requires, so most gets bled off and returned to sump (maybe why oil overheating can occur?) via the pressure relief valves. IF you use a big block that cuts the std oil gallery you MUST supply pressurised oil to BOTH ends of the head and ideally from BOTH ends of the main gallery (not easy to achieve!) Only other reason for external lines is to minimise oil heating via the stud hole risers - if that is an issue, then a bigger cooler would be a better idea to lower the overall engine temp. IMO.

I'm gonna get burned for this but . . . . . . . just park the Dino and buy a Watercooled Commuter bike that won't complain, handle the traffic and it saves the 1150 for spirited weekend enjoyment! Or move somewhere else LOL!

If you were clever with a lathe and TIG, its not beyond the realms of possibility to add in some injector bungs to a set of carbs, lose the slide, needle and all the other bollux, block up the redundant holes and voila - retro style efi TB's

Only kill power to the coils - DO NOT kill the ignition, ONLY THE COILS ! ! !

They usually aren't a 'one size fits everything' deal - you have to come up with a mounting solution! But unless you choose the 'super' wide type, most of the 'regular' width coolers will fit within a fairing as they are somewhat more narrow than stock types!

If its a sudden occurance - i'd look at mechanical things - throttle cable fraying is a good one or carb linkages binding somewhere?

If you use ESSO Synergy Supreme 99 . . . . . .

Normal'ish wear & tear - when its a Christmas tree, that's when you get worried!

Don't know its purpose but as its machined steel plate and not just stamped aluminium, it must serve some structural purpose!

Its an oil cooler off a water cooled bike! That is actually a neat solution if you are keeping the fairing and if the fittings are freely available?

I know you know I was pointing out, for our less well informed members, that power shouldn't always the determinant factor in fitting something.

Logical explanation - I forgot the oil switch on these works as a relief valve ie. lifting on pressure about 1 psi LOL! So cooler will get pressurised oil @ whatever pressure the engine makes but can't imagine flow will be much via the switch !

Straight cut gears aren't necessarily 'stronger' but they minimise side pressure on the clutch basket - helical gears are stronger as they have more teeth contacting at any one point, run quieter but do induce side loading, they also absorb more power - only fractional due to forgoing points but its there!

Its a big 'IF' ! Its a new build with 70kms total running & its unclear as to new / used bottom end, set-up status of the carbs / ignition and whether the package was ragged around or ridden sensibly? Its the detonation that you don't hear that kills engines and most of the time you won't! 'Bigger' cooler doesn't automatically mean larger frontal area - depth or thickness needs to be considered, as this allows longer contact time so transferring more heat. They will be equally 'draggy' for airflow but thicker may be easier to package within bodywork!