Gixer1460

I hope you meant to type 0.2 bar or about 2.5 - 3.0psi? Obviously a boost sensitive regulator is a requirement to add boost pressure to that setting. Certainly the FCR's are an unusual choice but they are about as good as possible using roller slides to prevent boost induced slide jamming. Smoking could have a few causes not necessarily turbo - fubar'd rings / bores through over fuelling is a possibility?

Looks ghetto - looks double hard - looks good!

Well someone has spent a shedload of money on it - frame mods, Miki TMR's, dripping in Yoshi stuff! Neat engineering but Kats just don't float my canoe and 'fake' ones even less! LOL

Really? What you you think? Std gasket is sized for a 78mm bore and you're making it 81mm - how much is hanging into the cylinder getting burnt to a crisp! There doing something on a budget and there just being cheap! Sorry if it sounds harsh - learn some basic principles before you grenade your motor!

Don't believe everything your told.............................http://www.smbaker.com/sand-rail/manx/rebuild-ihi-rhb5-and-add-carbon-seal

I guess it was conceived when those daft fat 300 section rear tyres were in vogue! Can't see the 6" offset front sprocket working though! Not to my taste but each to their own!

Do it sooner than later or it'll cost you in burnt plates and warped steels. And uprated / excellent brakes are deffo not an option, neither is crankcase ventilation - you'll need more!

They will be f**kin hens teeth in a breakers - doubt any cars in the last 20 years have been fitted with draw through systems but usually the older Garrett 'T' series turbos can be retro fitted with carbon seals - T2, T3, T4. Likewise older IHI but not sure about Mitsubishi units!

Hmmm its a tricky one but not impossible. Hardest bit is avoiding blocking that oil? drilling at the bottom! I think i'd turn up a stainless, loose fitting plug to fit the smooth section to provide backing to build up the outer weld. You may have to grind out the threaded section and built it back with weld then face, drill and re-tap the treads?

All depends on what you are trying to find - combustion chamber volume to work out compression or pure in-head chamber volume to work out gas flowing effects on CR. The former is generally acknowledged as 26cc so I bet you'll find the piston domes will measure out at about 2cc which of course gets deducted from the head volume

Its bastard stuff to remove which is usually a good thing! - chemical dipping probably the best way + it'll clean out a lot of the oil galleries especially if 'hot tanked' at an engine builders afterwards!

Probably not much as the Oil Boilers are a tad bigger - more manly shall we say and real men only like manly things ! LOL !

Ordinarily I'd say add relays but my 1100M comes from the factory without and no one has ever though that should have had relays!

Why no chance of welding - stick up a piccy of the damage......pretty much 'anything' can be fixed with weld and a good welder!

Busa rods shouldn't be a problem at that power but pistons won't like it - I wouldn't trust them as they fail in Busa's @ sub 300hp and that is with proper ECU engine management! With carbs and a Dyna it'd be risky - A dyna 2000 won't give any retard 'curve' - it just drops a set figure from whatever the programmed advance curve is at that point.

Same place yours does..............................just gets a bit toasty if you try and tuck in and forget! Its a condition called Oldskool Turbo knee - EVERYONE does it once!

Bud contacted Harris to check original build spec and quite frankly they couldn't be fucked to give / find out any info! Not that impressed with this response......."Sorry M8 no info on that frame number" with no great investigation. I'm sure if he wanted to buy some spares they'd be a bit more accommodating!

Hmmmm! not without serious engine management (fuel and more importantly ignition) and charge cooling cos that boost is certainly getting to the limits of even 98 octane pump fuel without intercooling / charge cooling IMO. Do you want approx 250-280hp in a Bandit......numbers are nice - practicality is sometimes better!

Check chain tension when two up.......probably too tight! You need some slack to allow the gears and shafts to re-align a bit!......well that's my theory anyway!

I believe Guy Martin's Turbo GSXR was a water boiler frame before Martek made the former fit the latter!

Please note that these above are not the correct adaptors for dash 10 / AN10 fittings! Those below would be correct. http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/10-AN10-10-M16x1-5-Metric-Adapter-Black-/160464502794?hash=item255c6e000a

IMO Dash 8 / AN8 is ok for supplementary coolers / head coolers etc but if tuning the motor, a step up to Dash 10 hose and fittings / 5/8" inlets on cooler allows better flow with reduced pressure loss. Better flow allows more heated oil to be cooled - I used a 19 row and it coped well with turbo power but didn't like sitting still - traffic wasn't its friend!

Not the same but similar - I put a GSXR1100 in my Z1000J frame (nice big hole to fill!), I started with the bottom mount. Threw the engine in the cradle and spaced it up so the bottom engine holes were central to the bottom frame mount holes to create a nice triangular plate approx 35-50mm tall. Once that was fixed, it was cardboard cutting time to create front and rear plates. Luckily on the Zed frame one of the kwak rear mounts was close the the GSXR engine holes and just needed a little fettling. As the frame got monoshocked at the same time, the shock lower linkage pivots were fabricated on to a plate with bottom engine mounts and work / mount in conjunction with the stock frame mounts. This resulted in slightly longer ex. headers and the sprocket not being hugely distant from the swingarm pivot. As the exhaust was a one off bespoke for the bike, that didn't cause a problem and the sprocket location never caused much issue this chain tension - tighten or slackening!

Nowt wrong with GSXR rods - smack any rod into valves and they will more than likely bend! Not sure busa rods will suit the application. You want longevity - ditch the busa pistons and get some correct dished turbo pistons with some meat in the crown and ring lands deeper than a gnats nadger! They may be heavier but its a turbo not a revin' 2 smoke!

Oh for fucks sake - its got water in it so as far as i'm concerned or care its an SRAD! - generic term - who gives a shit! Proper engines have oil on the inside and water stays outside - them I know!