Gixer1460

I know Sean well and all through the 'Phil Wood' years with the Spondon Kat and he could never manage it then even using a 48mm version HSR (from memory) so don't know what will have changed? A rising rate FPR is usually a bit of a 'band aid' on EFI systems - never heard of a successful use with carbs. I'm guessing that dealing with non linear fuel pressure plus addition of boost pressure will give moderately unpredictable results?

There isn't a snowball in hells chance of any HSR fueling 300hp! The float bowl is massively too small and pressure needed to fill it and keep up with demand is so excessive that it floods at anything other than mid range and up! 250 'ish hp with nitrous assist is about the only way i've seen of getting close! If - as the other poster noted - it is a Rajay........it'll never flow enough air even with F flow bits - Sorry! 1460cc ? piece of piss.................... M O N E Y !

Compared to the S&S tractor carb, you could mount the HSR, up on the headstock and response would be improved! Wherever it fits and looks ok, is fine!

Onward - and upward! Its a learning curve but soon you'll have Guru status!

Depends on use! RS38's offer good all round usage (or 39mm FCR's) or 40's for all out racing (or 41mm FCR's) if you've got the airflow and compression to use them. If your loaded? then 38mm Miki TMR's could be the ultimate................for carbs that is! Having discovered practicalities of EFI - that would be my personal choice!

I may be simplifying things but if you'd mounted the ECU why did they take the bike apart to add a hook-up lead? Why move sensors if you positioned them sensibly and where you wanted them? Its not about mis communication - its about ineptitude! Mistaking a engine breather for a boost hose is fairly basic error by someone who either doesn't care or can't be bothered to care! They've likely lost any repeat business with the OP but what about others that don't know and get treated the same - i'd be fairly pissed if I could have been forewarned!

Can't recollect any aftermarket turbo pistons being made that small ! Any markings on the underside? Just checked my APE catalog and Wiseco did a 76mm Turbo slug 7.8:1 CR so loads of boost potential!

That is a reasonable list to get shirty and shouty about. Know its early doors but a name might be useful - if only to be wary / avoid?

Master cylinder bore size of the ZX9R compared to the GSXR variety must be playing a part and / or lever ratio which will influence amount of fluid moved which seems to be insufficient! Worth checking?

Personally I ran a catch tank ( but was racing as well so better to have a recirc catch tank and not oil the track after forgetting to empty the can!) This is based on the fact that a tank will need the same amount of vents as are run to it..................i've seen tanks with 3x lines in and only 1x 12mm K&N to vent - it just don't work!

Why does this MYTH of 'needing a bit of back pressure in an exhaust' persist? It may make the engine a bit more tolerant on the jetting selection, but only because its not working efficiently. I've never known anyone who goes seeking max power say lets throw a silencer on if they didn't have to under regulations! Hey we've got a 10,000hp Top Fueler, lets add an Acropovic and see how she goes? Its FANTASY - back pressure is bad - period! Turbo's create massive backpressure in an exhaust hence lower outputs off boost - its just that the boost over comes the restriction but its still a trade off!

Think of it this way - you are trying to drain oil by gravity into a pressurised tank (the crankcase) without adequate breathers! Turbo's need breathers and as many as you can fit / as big as you can manage. I didn't consider 2x dash 10's and 2x dash 8's to be excessive!

Agreed, M head is a good 'un but this was using 36mm CV's - a nicer carb to work with. The exhaust was built 'to the bike' and did have longer primaries than usual - maybe a 1/3rd longer - and I think that was what was responsible for the torque! I should have tried it on my 1460 - that would have been a hoot!

Don't agree with pooling in the up pipe! That is the hottest point (around the collector) and any oil would be burnt off and the thing would be smoking like a Steam Engine! I'd say, looking at the clean oil, its turbo seal related - either fubar'd or badly fitted? You said you are using a dash 10 drain - is it horizontal anywhere or vertical drop throughout? Its possibly backing up in the pipe and overwhelming the seal?

Re the Weld-on Q - the red cap in the 3rd piccy was the dash 12 turbo oil drain line return - not into case but into clutch cover

The longer screw has likely punched through the casing into an oil way or drain hence the leak, so welding is the ultimate fix. I've used JB Weld on heads before without drama.......this isn't directly exposed to 900 deg exhaust temp, probably nearer 200 - 250 so should hold ok for a fair while providing the area is well de-greased / oil free!

Whats wrong with the 'GSX Laser' drawings below? Click on them and they open fine for me?

Big bores and forced induction motors will all suffer ring blow by and crankcase compression - fact. Without increased breathing, you'll end up with blown seals and leaky gaskets - fact. Any added is a good option - my 1186 turbo had oil filler vent in dash 8, clutch cover vent in dash 10, std cam cover vent in dash 8 and additional cam cover weld on in dash 10 - excessive? maybe, but never blew a seal / gasket ever.

Totally agree Clive. I've no axe to grind or bury but i've known Sean for close to 15+ years and yes he can be a 1st class knob at times and we've had many, many discussions on ways of doing things - some things work, some don't (I had a Motec on my bike before he'd even see one, and dismissed mine as overkill!) but apart from trying to sell snow to the eskimos and sand to the arabs, he has made a name for well built turbo kits, primarily for late model sportbikes that will do what he says they will do, no doubts. They won't be cheap but HP never is and his come with guarantees - how rare is that. For those that don't know there are 3 or 4 testing regimes for Dynos - uncorrected, SAE, DIN and the 'other one'. All will give a different number, even the dyno type affects the number - it could be electrically or water braked, light or heavy drum un-braked, acceleration type, they all give different numbers. So, yes be cautious of unproven numbers, but when they come from someone who really does 'what it says on the tin' don't be so dismissive. Results speak and there are some American teams racing with BigCC turbo kits and they ain't complaining of 'lack' of HP! Its actually nice to be able to say that the UK can build and export to the USA, a niche' product in a niche' marketplace and be well regarded!

Advantage is increase in oil pressure, reduction of oil temp by not passing oil through the hot block and avoidance of the notoriously leaky block / cases joint. Easy enough to do - tap hole M6 and add grub screws - job done.

A sharp hardened centre punch should be enough to flare out the pin sufficiently - deffo a 4 handed operation though.

For a stock bike with stock ignition, why not use Webmoto replacements - usually about £35 a piece as opposed to Dynas at £100 a pair with no advantage?

I had Barnett plates in my 1100K - was overbored and ran nitrous and the clutch was mint, upgraded to turbo and it went super grabby - not nice. Swapped back to std fibres and all good again - oh ...... was using a lock-up with both.

Most carb float needles won't withstand much above 2.5 - 3.0psi fuel pressure (usually lower) before leaking - remember most are only designed for gravity flow ie. virtually zero psi (relative to atmospheric). A compression tester is a start - a std say what now!? is about 160 - 200psi with no cylinder more than 10% drift against the others. This will indicate general cylinder state but there could be valve leakage and / or ring leakage - only definitive test is a leak down - not many workshops will have these but they are pretty foolproof as they'll show what is leaking, by how much and in each cylinder.....irrespective of any compression ratio

BEST!!! bit of advice written here in a while!