Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,148 Excellent

About MeanBean49

  • Rank
    Sledge Hammer
  • Birthday 10/11/1982

Personal Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1,228 profile views
  1. MeanBean49

    Gearing for turbo use

    Fair point, depends on what sort of power gains your talking about, mines about 200% power and torque gain. For what I do all gears apart from 5th are useless so ive geared it so 3rd is virtually the same as stock 5th which gives me 3 useful gears instead of 1.
  2. MeanBean49

    Gearing for turbo use

    Thinking about it, my front is 16t, 17t might need bit of modification to clear stuff. @Kid Kearsleyran a 17t i think
  3. MeanBean49

    Gearing for turbo use

    Its nice to be able to acelerate really fast and feel what a turbo is about instead of bouncing up and down and not really getting anywhere.
  4. MeanBean49

    Gearing for turbo use

    I run 17/40 i think (could be 16) Mine makes loads of mid range torque and pulls really well from low revs, i find having tall gearing lets you use the power without it being a complete pogo stick and helps keep turbo loaded up 3rd is good for 30mph up to 175mph so not much gear changing needed. 1st and second are entirely pointless gears really.
  5. Im pretty sure they are on mine. I will get my laptop out when I get a minute and have a look. Pm me your email and will send a ver88 map if I can. Or drop ignitech an email, they will normally email the map you need directly to you
  6. The ignitech has a dropdown menu with loads of bikes already pre programmed into it. Click either bandit 12 or gsxr 1100 and then programme. I run a standard map on mine. But i have an intercooler, once you have loaded the map, take a few degrees out of the map above 8k and click programme again
  7. MeanBean49


    Yeah stock pistons suck, crushed ring lands with a hint of real boost. Ive got a question regarding busa rods, i measured everything up ages ago out of interest as I was advised to use a 2mm spacer plate. I measured a busa rod against a bandit on, the distance from the bottom of the small end to the top of the big end was only 1mm different iirc, i figured that if I used a 1mm spacer that would make the c/r exactly the same as using stock b12 rods. And that c/r is about spot on. So why do people recomend the 2mm spacer plate? Doesnt make sense to me
  8. MeanBean49

    Lockup clutch slipping at low revs

    Its all a bit of a balancing act isnt it? Depends on your own setup, how you use the bike and how you want it to feel. I dicked about with allsorts of different combos until I got it how I wanted, its not perfect but is the best setup for trackdays for me
  9. MeanBean49

    Lockup clutch slipping at low revs

    Adding more springs/stiffer springs has to make the lever heavier all the time, a lockup will only make the lever heavier the higher the rpm. Its not really anything to do with peak power, its where peak torque is. If peak torque is low down the arms of the lockup wont put enough force on to stop slip, not somthing you would notice on the strip, but very noticeable when on the road doing roll ons or on trackdays.
  10. MeanBean49

    Lockup clutch slipping at low revs

    Not what ive found. High rpm i dont need much weight on lockup to stop slip, low/mid rpm with no weight on lockup no hd spring would stop slip, only way I could cure it was add weight to the lockup so its putting more pressure on the pack at lower rpm, slip stopped. Heavier springs make lever stiff at standstill, weight on the lockup wont affect lever stiffness at all when not moving. Mine makes 200ft lbs at 6k though so a little bit more than a TD04 setup to deal with
  11. MeanBean49

    Lockup clutch slipping at low revs

    Yeah, sorry mong moment, i use a ducati brembo master and it makes lever mega light but doesnt disengage clutch quite as much as stock, only wants to creep above about 5k, but only does it with lockup fitted. Really wierd thinking about it now.
  12. MeanBean49

    Lockup clutch slipping at low revs

    Might be a good idea to put some fresh OEM clutch fibres in if youve had fully synth in it. But yeah bit more weight on the arms will help at lower revs. I have to have quite a lot of weight on mine to stop it slipping at low revs because of the torque it makes. Trade off is it makes clutch a bit heavier, and can make fast launches difficult, mine starts to creep forward if i give it a few revs with the clutch in.
  13. MeanBean49

    Lockup clutch but still slipping, tips & tricks?

    Roundy roundy types only use OEM too lol. More vertical stuff in one track session than a weekend drag racing ;-)
  14. MeanBean49

    Rotor broke

    That setup is fine to be used with the correct cdi. Which you must have or wouldnt run at all otherwise. Im guessing it has a 1052 loom too, the cdi plugs are different on 1052's iirc. All oil cooled motors with single pickups are the same pickup, rotors can be different shapes but all fit and work fine with whatever cdi you use. Bandit cdi's have different plug to gsxr's and have a security/resistor that you need to bypass if you dont have bandit ignition barrell. Your easiest fix is to get another 1052 rotor
  15. MeanBean49

    Turbo project continues...

    Getting more oil in isnt a problem, its just whether its at the cost of the supply/pressure of the oil fed to the crank and cams, your effectively opening a low resistance path in the high pressure oil system. Doesnt take much especially at low revs, and cold engine for the spare 25-30% pump capacity to be gone. Id take a slightly warmer head over starved crank and cams any day.