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About MeanBean49

  • Birthday 10/11/1982

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  1. Seen old pads literally fall off the backing plate straight out of the packeton more than one occasion, they also age harden and go brittle, they may work but they generally are shit compared to fresh new pads, not to mention 30 years of development and improvement. Seems pretty strange logic that you wouldnt trust mag wheels, but will calipers, guess stopping aint that important. Just trying to help. Guess it depends what your going to use the bike for.
  2. Think personally id give the calipers back, buy some normal nissin 4 potsand get some decent quality modern pads. They will look similar and work much better. 30 odd year old NOS pads will be shite, and $600 when you need more is ridiculous. Thats before you take into account magnesium does not age well and the caliper ade likely to be dangerous to use anyway
  3. All this guesswork, and feels like on the road etc. Invest in some dyno time and see what its actually doing in each confiuration. I found with mine swapping from slash cut to an underslung full length can using 63mm pipe cut about 20bhp off. But that I think was mostly because of the very short contorted pipe to the can When I had a propper full 63mm system it didnt make that much difference. Had to compromise though as it was decking out badly
  4. No they arent. Slabbies (or some slabbie models) are narrower than Slingys afaik as per my first post. Think its somthing like 90mm slabbie, 100mm slingy and water boilers, 110mm for k series. Centreing the rim is the easy part, trying to get the chain alignment right is the hard part. Not sure if you can just change the spacer behind the front sprocket to conver slabbie motor to slingy dimensions, got a funny feeling theres not enough thread to do it
  5. Worth measuring your standard sprocket offset from wheel centre, getting K-series wheels to fit slingshots involves a lot of work as there is 10mm difference. IIRC slabbies sprocket offset is less than slingy. Its a lot of offset to make up.
  6. I may have a genuine one buiried somewhere, yours if I can find it
  7. Looks cool mate, shame to cover that subframe up
  8. If your manging to hold WOT in 1st or 2nd then somthing is seriously wrong with it. Your not likely to see full boost in the lower gears due to the short time you spend in them due to them being shorter, and not being able to use full throttle due to wheelies. Best bet get it on a dyno and see what its doing, not only can you check fueling you can have a good look/feel round for boost leaks etc whilst its running and under load as long as dyno operator is cool with that.
  9. Ace, had same issue with mine
  10. Get some tywraps round them for a week, or be forever trying to stick them back down
  11. Just in my experience with ignitechs thats where the sweet spot is on oil boilers. Fully appreciate different brands or different motors/specs will be different. At least its dead easy to mess with and find a sweet spot. Having the capability to mess with the delay makes a huge difference, you can get them working really smoothly even at lower rpm's
  12. I would ask Nick what settings he has for his quickshifter. Iirc 100m/s is about the ideal kill time, your better off altering the the delay time instead
  13. Yeah hes talking absolute shite lol. Shame youve not got the AFR trace on the graph. Peak looks to be around 8k so fairly high up rpm range. GSXR cams probably ideal.
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