Gixer1460

The exhaust on my Kawazuki was bespoke obviously and had longer primaries and secondaries than would be usual for a std GSXR. At a guess (bike got sold last year) the primaries were 28 - 30" long and joined to the secondary's either side of the sump vee. These were about 12-14" long before the Y joint to the repacked V&H Supersport can. It make a bloody flexible, torquey 1186 motor - 144hp and 92 ftlbs using DJ kitted 36mm CV's. Got some pic's somewhere which i'll post later.

Question - Will GSXR cams fit in a GSX head? I know there'll be one surplus bearing journal but otherwise ? ? ?

Seeing those pictures - timewarp! - the footrest plates do nothing for the looks - yes they serve multiple purposes but must have taken days of milling (pre CNC!) and cost a fortune! A M8 had a 3 with a 1000RX motor and candy cherry red paint - how I lusted after that bike but it went to another M8 and became a dragbike ,,,,,,,,, can't ever remember it having those plates though! I'll find some piccies later.

Hmmm - Bollux! I built my first one over 20 years ago and EVERY ride was an experience - loud, raw and involving. They aren't supposed to be 'normal or ordinary'. Mine was a suck through / S&S carb'd toy that would trundle around 'normally' at legal speeds on the edge of boost, then whoosh it would pull yer arms out. The low comp comment demonstrates the divide between old tech and new tech with what is required/expected. Low comp + lots of boost = light switch power with big top end........ Decent comp + moderate boost = driveable power and ok top end ........ Decent comp + built proper with clever ECU + high boost = driveable and monster power!

Depends on whether the crankcase opening up boring has broken through into the oil transfer gallery? GSXR's aren't so critical as the old GSX cases as 1340 is only a 3mm increase in bore radius whereas the GSX were using 4-5mm rad increases for a big bore. Also it helped cooling keeping oil out of the 'hot' block but as the oil boilers have pretty uniform temps throughout its not so critical. External lines can be done, but i've never seen it done on a oiler block.

Don't know about the welding but it looks factory standard as supplied with EFE cranks - aftermarket is usually more full circle and looking at an enlarged view of the gear it actually looks HELICAL not straight cut!

I've got one here exactly the same and as far as i'm aware, there is knob all you can easily do about it - the alloy is cast around the steel so can't be removed. You could clock it up in a rotary table on a drill press and add some steel dowel pins across the joint - that'll stop the movement .......................................or you could ignore it and live with the rattle!

I'd say if you have a deadheaded line, the pressure in it will be higher than when fuel is flowing. I prefer to put full pump pressure over the carbs with FPR after, with return back to tank - no deadhead and pressure should read static pressure at the carbs correctly.

More than sufficient! In fact all 'regular' Pingle taps 1 out, 2 out, 3 out are all fed via one 8mm pipe into the tank.

Isn't the '94 GSXR750 a water boiler as opposed to the oil boiler '92? So most of the parts std or aftermarket won't be swoppable!

No - not really!

I've seen that done but as the plug is allen key tightened you'll lose that and then you are relying on the oil fitting adapter to tighten it - risky IMO, a proper adapter is the sensible route.

Don't take turbo oil feed from cams! They need it more than the turbo. Use the main gallery via plug lower RHS just ahead of clutch cover. Re drain - built a little 'tank' (50x25x25mm should be plenty) straight on to the turbo outlet with a 1/4 hose connector to the Facet. BTW - that's a GSX aircooled picture LOL

The Kat rods are marked '493' and generally regarded as stronger than regular GSX rods - don't know the difference but racers try to use the 493 rods where they can.

I really wouldn't want to use -8AN pipe for a main cooler - especially a turbo. I've used -10AN and with a 'normal' width, 19 row on a turbo - it used to get blazing hot in summer, getting out of the Bulldog for example but once trucking was mint. I had pipes to top with 180 bend Aeroquip fittings - they were my lock stops LOL!

Suzuki fiche and seems to indicate one either side........

The early GSX1100's inc Katana's still had mechanical advancers so only benefit is loosing the points! Later EFE / GS1150's had all electronic ign but the timing curve (which is effectively fixed) from a 4V 1100 will not suit a 1000 2V. Many bikes out there using a Dyna S with mechanical advancer!

Its not a garage - more of a one room house with no furniture! How do you cope with the lack of space? LOL! ps The earlier 22 looks 'racier' - I like the spannies to exit on one side.

On first glance £175 sounded outrageous but it seems to be about the market going rate ! ! ! Last time I bought a pair they were £79 and the leads added another £20! At that cost i'd get a 2 channel Bosch Amp and 4 GSRX1000 COP's - http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=124 + s/hand cops should all come in under a ton! Neat solution and maybe damn sight more reliable based on recent reports of Dyna products!

If on stock electrics you need 3.0 ohm - Dyna Green's.If you have a Dyna 'S' - same coils. If using a Dyna 2000 then either 3.0 or 2.2's are suitable (green or grey) - everything else is competition orientated and not suited to road use.

But Dash 10 will have better flow and reduced pressure loss. Personally i've always used -10 on main coolers. -8 for head coolers and all with 'stressed' engines

Personally I'd look at just using a Gel battery - Lithium's need good, well regulated charging current / voltage to avoid damage - look how many IPhone's have blown to bits due to dodgy chargers! The old Dino engines are heavy lumps to spin over when cold so I'd reckon on a 10 / 12Ah as a minimum. Many other places to save a kilo rather than a battery I think?

If you can track down Phil Joy / Joy Cams? he can regrind standard cams or re-weld the cam noses to regrind and keep the stock base circle / clearances - best talk to him first.

Totally agree but as you'll generally be doing timing or adjustment where the degree wheel will be requirement then why not use it and remove the possibility of introduced errors between relying on a tape measure and a degree wheel? Personal preference is use one scale for multiple measurement / setting. With regard turning engine backwards and forwards it doesn't make much difference as long as you remember to approach the measure point from the same direction each time ie. wind it backwards at least 1/4 turn past the point and then wind it forward - this takes all the backlash out so can be relied upon - it works for me!

Disagree - a dead blow is like tickling it. It sounds medieval but a good Club or decent sized Ball Pein is needed to shock the taper free - and it'll sound like a gunshot if its that tight!