Gixer1460

Suzuki fiche and seems to indicate one either side........

The early GSX1100's inc Katana's still had mechanical advancers so only benefit is loosing the points! Later EFE / GS1150's had all electronic ign but the timing curve (which is effectively fixed) from a 4V 1100 will not suit a 1000 2V. Many bikes out there using a Dyna S with mechanical advancer!

Its not a garage - more of a one room house with no furniture! How do you cope with the lack of space? LOL! ps The earlier 22 looks 'racier' - I like the spannies to exit on one side.

On first glance £175 sounded outrageous but it seems to be about the market going rate ! ! ! Last time I bought a pair they were £79 and the leads added another £20! At that cost i'd get a 2 channel Bosch Amp and 4 GSRX1000 COP's - http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=124 + s/hand cops should all come in under a ton! Neat solution and maybe damn sight more reliable based on recent reports of Dyna products!

If on stock electrics you need 3.0 ohm - Dyna Green's.If you have a Dyna 'S' - same coils. If using a Dyna 2000 then either 3.0 or 2.2's are suitable (green or grey) - everything else is competition orientated and not suited to road use.

But Dash 10 will have better flow and reduced pressure loss. Personally i've always used -10 on main coolers. -8 for head coolers and all with 'stressed' engines

Personally I'd look at just using a Gel battery - Lithium's need good, well regulated charging current / voltage to avoid damage - look how many IPhone's have blown to bits due to dodgy chargers! The old Dino engines are heavy lumps to spin over when cold so I'd reckon on a 10 / 12Ah as a minimum. Many other places to save a kilo rather than a battery I think?

If you can track down Phil Joy / Joy Cams? he can regrind standard cams or re-weld the cam noses to regrind and keep the stock base circle / clearances - best talk to him first.

Totally agree but as you'll generally be doing timing or adjustment where the degree wheel will be requirement then why not use it and remove the possibility of introduced errors between relying on a tape measure and a degree wheel? Personal preference is use one scale for multiple measurement / setting. With regard turning engine backwards and forwards it doesn't make much difference as long as you remember to approach the measure point from the same direction each time ie. wind it backwards at least 1/4 turn past the point and then wind it forward - this takes all the backlash out so can be relied upon - it works for me!

Disagree - a dead blow is like tickling it. It sounds medieval but a good Club or decent sized Ball Pein is needed to shock the taper free - and it'll sound like a gunshot if its that tight!

Old rings will work with a fresh bored / honed barrel as they'll both wear to suit each other (if in spec!) although it can be problematic with a blown motor due to the ring lands being relatively close to the piston crown. Rule of thumb for clearance is 0.003-4" per 1" of piston diameter - larger for racing applications / tighter for road going. If the guy doing the boring is any good, he'll bore and hone to suit each piston in each particular hole and mark them so they don't get mixed up.................or maybe he won't and you can trust your judgement.

Exactly! If you don't understand the principles behind the theory then how will you know what to set the cams to? You can set them to what Suzuki designed them but is that what your engine spec wants? Single cam engines are relatively simple in that the lobe centres are fixed but with double you can move both around and still have the same centreline angle sbut with totally different responses - something to think about!

Yep - that's the one alright. I've got the Spondon rear sets it came with as the guy didn't like them.

Interesting - how did you come by it as I know the guy that got Bob to build the first one but I didn't know he'd sold it - lost touch a few years ago - he lived in Bracknell, Berks?

If you can't find the correct plug I think i'd find the correct size male pins, crimp and solder to correct colour wires, push through a trimmed piece of thin plastic laid over the females into the right places, test they work electrically and cover the whole lot with hot melt glue to set in place. Once cooled / set the new 'plug connector can be removed, more glue added and all tidied up - hey presto - new connector!

A mate of mine used to work for a Suburu dealer and had a couple of turbo's off cars that went to Prodrive for upgrades and unless they've changed the unit (probable given the timeframe) they were definitely too small IMO - maybe good for a 750? The 13's may give good low down response but top out too soon - the 15's and 16's are a better choice I think.

Worn or under / over inflated tyres can act weird over white lines - I deffo know i've only got a 1000 or so miles left in the tyre when it starts tracking / tram lining! You probably never noticed but 'counter steering' is how bikes work over about 20mph - the 190 tyre won't have helped!

3 ohms is standard on most older tackle. Fitting a Dyna 'S' or a '2000' can improve the spark reliability and only with the 2000 can you use 2.2 ohm (grey) coils (although some peeps have used 2.2's with std CDI's but IMO it risks popping the electronics). The Dyna 'S' pick-ups can be used with a Dyna 4000 spark box and 1.5 (brown) or 0.7 ohm (blue) coils but for racing only.

Depends on the quality of the porting work - its as easy to lose flow as it is to gain it. All things being equal, bigger valves tend to work mid to upper rpm's but sometimes the same can be achieved with longer duration cams and std valves? Could be a pricey solution - 8 / 16 valves + head work + maybe piston pocket work against a set of cams and springs?

Pretty much most things will be ok with 0.5mm cable (11amps). Horn, dip and main headlights better with 1.5mm (16amps) and alternator, battery and ignition switch feeds use 2.0 / 3.0mm.(25/35amps) If you can't re-wire all the way through, its ok to splice together, solder and heatshrink over to insulate. One other thing is that the CDI may not like living above the engine nor being near the coils / plug leads / plugs due to heat and / or interference.

Ditto - if the cooler is 'round the back' it won't cool jack! The GS1150 motors are less 'aircooled' compared to the GS1100 hence the addition of the cooler at the front.

77 - 93 - 77 same as all air / oil cooled zuki's and Kwacks

I assume you have a manual? What are the required stock settings and jets? A stubby can ain't gonna make a massive difference so i'm thinking intake air leak - cracked rubbers being favourite - they may look good when mounted but take them off and little cracks appear. Not saying it'll be that but worth checking.

Ditto on the Nokia not so much a brick phone just a Mars bar in black and white LOL! At work last week everyone (me excluded) moaned / complained so much about their phones not getting Wi-Fi that it required a new Router / modem and an engineer to fit it so £250-300 cost to the company THAT HAS NO WIRELESS DEVICES REQUIRING WI-FI! Selfish bastards!

Sorry about your position for the swings - here, have a jelly baby on me LOL! The explanation clears it up - I was going to have a rant about smartphones but they do enough damage on their own! Strange choice of prohibited word seeing as GSXR's have been known thus since day one out of the factory! But whatever......... back to British Bulldog!