Gixer1460

Obviously not your fault fella - its the moral guardians who live in a playground!

Care to enlighten me then via PM? I'm a big boy and prefer to call a spade a spade! The replacement phrase seems to cause equal or more offence and as i've not seen it occur in other peoples posts it seems particularly pointed in one direction hence my take on the situation. I don't fuckin' need a moral guardian and maybe you should grow up or grow a pair as I left name calling behind peoples backs in junior school!

Care to explain this? Is it funny? Am I not in the clique that is party to why its funny? If you want help or advice, don't take the fucking piss out of people that offer it or next time you might be invited to go screw yourself!

Relative bargain............... http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p71.html

Eggsackerly - take the rubbers out temporarily and see if it bolts up tight and square - then you've found the problem.

There - fixed your quote !

Unlikely a new DID chain will be FUBAR so i'd discount that. As there is no specific metal to metal fit between hub and wheel casting there could be a degree of 'slack' allowing a bit of wobble but it should be not obvious! Is the axle / spindle done up / torqued to specs as that may close it up? New cush drive rubbers may be binding with the hub - washing up liquid applied to everything when fitting eases the fit.

Way to big! 36mm will work ok with a stock engine, a modified one will benefit from better breathing 38mm dia. but compared, will lose a bit of torque through potentially slower gas speed / cylinder scavenge.

Internal gates are generally 'not loved' although they can be made to work ok with some time and effort. My 1460 is internally gated and doesn't complain - down to personal opinion - cleaner, simple or more plumbing and something else to buy!

correct

Not enough for anyone to tell the difference sat on the bike!

The spacings for all air and oil cooled Suzukis AND Kawa's is 77 - 93 - 77 ...... info from Mikuni Website. The water filled motors have centres tightened as cam chain often moved to side.

Guessing dirty / blocked air filter or incorrect float levels possibly? Colour wise should be light tan to white on unleaded with a stock bike.

Yes those are deffo rich unless you've been 'driving like Miss Daisy'! What are the engine specs - any work done, carb mods?

Not a bad price @ £500 considering there's a set of pistons in bored to suit barrel's - not sure I'd go as far as £750 though!

Looks strong enough, it just don't look too pretty or professional

It is ......................the name 'Woody' on the fairing lower sort of gives it away! Not sure if the re-incarnation has the same motor in it as it destroyed a few.

All 1127 chains are the same - 1157 Blandits have a Hyvo design chain so completely different.

12mm Plug socket shown refers to the thread size M12 Fine ..... Actual socket required is 18mm AF as you use. Most 12mm spark plug sockets / 1/2" drive are thin enough for Bandits / GSXR's ............but your buggered when it comes to H**nda's! LOL!

Not for a Bandit in that state of tune. Personally i'd throw a DJ or Factory jet kit at it - mid range tuning is a PITA generally!

You could get oversize Suzuki pistons for about the same money as Aftermarket - available at 0.25 / 0.50mm oversize and for a road bike might be a sensible option for reliability IMO. And unless big power is likely a basket upgrade is a bit OTT and a chunk of money to do - if the original is badly worn / notchy then its an easier choice.

Arttu - I agree with the statement but subject to the plumbing. Example -take a tap, turn it off and it has zero flow and zero pressure at the outlet but substantial pressure and zero flow before the valve. Turn it on a little and pressure reduces and flow increases before the restriction but at the outlet flow increases but has zero pressure - it has a degree of force due to kinetics but no pressure. Open tap more and the effect increases but there is no more pressure at the outlet and it can only be generated before a restriction. A float valve only sees pressure when it is closed and not flowing anything? Reinhoud - EFI in a car / bike uses a regulator to choke down the flow to give 3 bar over the injectors - excess pressure is bled off by flow back to the tank that has zero pressure (atmospheric) A carburettor needs (usually) no more than 0.1 bar fuel pressure or the float valve will leak and a carb placed in the same relationship as an injector would be subject to flooding initially / often as the regulator is trying to build 0.1 bar pressure on a line that is effectively leaking ie. into the carb and only when bowl is full and float valve shuts can line pressure of 0.1 bar be maintained? But the pump is putting out flow - flat out - which is mostly returned back to the tank but as with the tape example above the big flow has force that may overwhelm the float. The other option is a dead head system where the pump output flows against a regulator that only allows sufficient fluid past not to overwhelm the float valve. The pump will be producing way in excess of 3-5 bar fuel pressure at idle rpms which unless effectively bled off by return to tank overheats the fuel. A Rising Rate Regulator is NOT a Boost Referenced Regulator and they shouldn't be confused. The former will multiply the fuel delivery pressure by a fixed % ie 1lb boost fuel pressure increases by 3% so 43 psi becomes 44.29, add another lb of boost and it adds another 3% so 44.29 becomes 45.62 psi etc etc. Whereas a Boost referenced regulator will only add 1 psi for every 1lb of boost. This effectively means the carb jets or the injectors 'see' exactly the same pressure over them whatever the boost is - whereas with a RR reg the pressure at the jet / injector is higher than boost making the overall delivery richer and richer whether it is required or not! It may work if you can't adjust the map for limited boost increases but with 10lbs of boost you could be getting 65psi FP when you'd only need 50psi - remember compressing anything generates heat so personally i'd keep the pressure down and re-map the injector opening time up.........with a carb you'd be buggered IMO!

What don't you understand? Most fuel pumps these days are sourced from EFI systems. The rated flows are generally at 3bar pressure and will be constant, what isn't used (@ 3bar pressure) will be bypassed back to the tank. If you drop the pressure to carb acceptable levels, the flow will drop accordingly. Other than that, what else needs explaining?

Always wary about specifying EFI fuel pumps for use with carbs. EFI pressure is relatively constant over the injectors, flow is largely unimportant as it is usually in excess but choking down an efi pump a) over heats the fuel and b) reduces its flow - to carb float valve tolerable levels, so requiring an oversize tank return line. RR Regs are spawn of satan IMO - may be ok for a mildly hopped up NA situation but never good with a turbo and certainly not with turbo and carbs! Carbs need to have low pressure, high flow supply that will track boost exactly to remain constant - increasing FP exponentially with no regard to boost requirement leads to blown engines - seen it with Busa's done on the cheap. Different pipe route - I like it, neat and tucked in. Stainless? won't shed heat easily so air could get a bit toasty!

Added to the conversation.