Gixer1460

M8 - he hasn't been on here since early November 2016 so may not connect with this!

Why not keep the airbox and fit a K&N in that? With a few additional holes to aid airflow it'll work good even to fairly high power levels. A M8 has this set up on a 1216 bandit with RS36's fitted - pulls from nothing, flattest torque curve you could want and 156hp at the top end - not too shabby!

Don't be tempted - if excessive, it'll throw a chain potentially smashing cases or locking a wheel!

I've got RS40's currently on the 1460 but have FCR41's as well. The FCR's are a nicer and i'd say better engineered product, slide sticking is not an issue due to the roller slides and they don't seem to rattle as much. One rack cost £300 the other £650 so go figure why! Both go into std 'M' 40mm rubbers with a bit of lube!

Wouldn't necessarily say the can was too long, just too far back! I'd cut the secondaries to move the collector nearer the SA pivot and pull the can forward?

It clears - just........ I tried an 18 and not a chance!

I tried explaining this to someone years ago who was hard of understanding - he swore blind his bike accelerated quicker with a 14/42 combo than 15/45 or a 17/51. My fav combo is 17/42 with turbo power - the 17 helps chain life, the turbo doesn't LOL!

Why do you believe they were leaking? Its pretty rare that they do as something has to physically hold the pintel off its seat. Don't forget constant start attempts will 'flood' the cylinders as the system 'primes' pump pressure and adds a couple of injector squirts to wet the inlet tract! 3 bar / 43psi static FP is the norm the world over.

From what i've heard, most if not all of the DIY tank liner coatings fail after a while with the ethanol addition in fuel! Why do you feel the need to coat the inside? If you store the bike drain the tank and close the cap, or brim the tank with fuel - both stop rust forming.

Neat and tidy DIY - I like the adapter and 90 deg fitting out of the cover. They always sort of look wrong with a straight or slightly cranked banjo. Nice!

Jeez - was your Guide Dog thrilled as well LOL!

Agreed - but Pilot jets don't just affect idle - they are from idle up to and onto the needle and need to be checked under load ie dyno or out on the road - WOT or not you can't look at it while riding.

To a point I agree with the un-neccessary argument but there's also nothing to say they harm or hurt the oil distribution! Me personally - I don't run oil up the barrels to feed the top end so need them with an additional external feed. With my hybrid motor - GSX bottom and GSXR top, the pump although uprated didn't need the aggro of negotiating the block galleries and jets but just had to get to the lumpy cams as directly and smoothly as possible.

I think they are M14 or M16. If you have access to a lathe the extg plugs can be drilled and tapped for a M10 Banjo and use dash 4 or 5 hose. Not sure if you can get dash 6 hose sized banjos with M10 bolts - might have to go up to a M12 bolt BUT the plug gets a bit thin but it can be done as i've got some from my dragbike motor.

Red wires are usually unswitched live and into the fuse box its probably to power the Accessory terminals? Thicker red can also go between regulator / battery / Ignition switch.

Depends on the connections on the soli........ One connection and no - it'll be earthed through the body, two and one side will need connecting to earth / frame. But if the starter switch, switches to earth then one side will be switched 12v, the other up to switch.

Have to ask the obvious - if its a GSXR1100 M/N (which should have 40mm CV's) why not change the jetting to match an 1100 K/L which used 36mm CV's - not Blandit - totally different requirements? The 36's are easier carbs to tune and work brilliantly with a GSXR engine - 125hp stock against 100hp from Blandit.

Yes I did - i've edited so now correct - good spot..............would have only rattled a little bit LOL!

General rule of thumb across most pistons is 0.003/0.004". Only if they use coated alloy barrels - eg. busa can the gaps be tightened as both will expand at similar rates.

Pointing out that it's a 9 row and not a 13 would be unbelievably picky....................so I won't LOL!

But they are really only any use for idle mixture! Bit tricky riding at WOT and peering down a Colourtune at the same time LOL!

Its a Harris - its not supposed to be easy ! Everyone know you have to remove the engine to change the oil and check the tappets ! Its an 'enthusiasts bike' after all ! LOL

I doubt very much that wiring was the issue - more than likely a fubar'd regulator! Seeing as GSXR alternators are two wire only red - battery perm. live and Orange switched loads, sensing is instantaneous? Electrons don't really care if wire is 1ft long or 6ft in this case. Regardless - off topic! Most loom wiring will handle a 1m extension providing comparable wire section is used with decent soldered joints - twisted together + a bit of PVC tape ain't gonna cut it!

Blag number no workie!

See - I said it would fit.............................ish! I think i'd use the lower back mount, rotate engine backwards and re-drill the back upper plates towards the rear? That'll put the front engine mounts closer to the frame mounts, pull front of head away from frame and maybe improve angle of carb's to top frame rail....................but there again i'm not standing next to it!