str33t

Yes, i have original airbox still, but upcoming rear-end and seat modifications wont work with "oem airbox look", maybe it really is time for RS40's, quite hefty price for new ones... but this is not atm my riding bike, i have even considered going to EFI someday, but that would require my own garage. I have spare frame im making mods into, and "just swapping" the parts in when rdy, projects....... edit: and good points to think about up there^, i really have to consider about the final solution(s). I know it could be done somehow with CV's, but do i really want to use that time and effort and maybe wrong investments (dj kits, venturi/velocity stacks..) its hard

do you mean rs40's etc? and yeah i have cv40, could have mentioned that earlier. Would RS40's solve the problems with airflows etc and then it would be just matter of jetting 'em correctly?

mm.. i have to check the comp ratio, you made me doubt my memory. anyways, it worked like s*it on the road, all above 3-4krpm was unusable unless you covered filter with hand. Reading this guide: http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html And for midrange adjusting i should play with need height, could it be just that ? If i recall right mainjet was up at the 150-160 range with pods. Damn winter, kinda prevents testing it.

Hi, few years ago i had my motor built, bored to 81mm, 13:1 comp 1216cc, yoshi exhaust, otherwise stock. Bike was first tuned/jetted at dyno with K&N pod filters (ru-2922) at it ran great on dyno, on the street not so much. Wind whirls messed up the airflow and covering filter with hand helped.. At that point i converted back to stock airbox. Now, due to new ideas stock airbox just wont fit, what would be the solution to this? Dynojet stage 3? Velocity stacks inside pods to help with wind whirls? Help with this would be much appreciated, im bad with carbs.