no class

yikes...….now that's an interesting way to widen a frame …… not my method of choice but hey....to each his own I guess . I can see you will have a few issues with that sssa choice ……..moving the entire swingarm assembly to the left will not get you sorted for a 8.500" rim alone....... your chain run and tire clearance .....then there is the rim to inner arm clearance ....there is just not enough room on that arm to accommodate that rim size/tire combo…...then....add the front / rear wheel alignment to the party . I have a few suggestions for ya ........offset wheel spacer with 2 independent bolt patterns , 1 for the spacer to hub and 1 for the wheel to spacer ...... just using extra long studs could get you in trouble . this will net you some wheel to inner arm clearance . get your wheels as close as possible to alignment then work on the chain run / offset sprocket with bearing support cover ....... there are some good heads on this forum and I am sure you can get you sorted .......

Yoshimura nake them...... had a set on my slingy ..... which basically means they will fit an efe

…….it never happened maaaaan….it was a mild hallucination ….fuelled by some killa sticky icky .

Gas is SHIT in Canada....majority if tge stations sell (91ron)......unless you can find a Sunoco (94 ron) and those are few and far between.......or settle for petrocan...... unlike the good stuff the guys in Europe get to use (98ron)

you can either look for the bearing locally or get the kit from " all balls racing " …..easy swap .

Greg Cope is a very respected engine builder..... what more do you need to know ?

Cue in ..,,,," Benny Hill slapping the little old bald man on the head"......

yes

home made jobbie..... 1" square ally bar , 2 hose barbs 3/8" x 1/4 NPT , piece of .375" ally tube threaded one side …….can be made easy enough .

A simple design but effective ...... dual barb / feed and return .....return line just slightly below the top of the fuel tank / roughly above fuel level . No reserve but in-line fuel valves can be added

ran 17/45 on my old turbo slingy …….

street bike in the high 6 second quarter mile...….lol.....must be a hoot to ride that beast !

there are other alternatives however.....low profile you say ? better flow ?

are you using a return line to the tank ? what turbo set up do you have ?

best if you ask that question in forced induction ……..have you RTFR yet ?

if he can afford a turbo build....I highly doubt a head gasket will be the deal breaker .

just buy it …….and if it turns out to be restricted....well....un-restrict it …..simples

Wurz…… check out www.allballsracing.com click on "find fork conversion kits" enter your model / year......and pick your poison . everything listed is a straight swap requiring only a bearing kit ….no messing with stems . depending on what you go for , the lockstops will need attention as they always do on any fork swap (easy fix).... keep in mind the length of the forks and spring rates will be a factor as well ….especially with the big Kat lump adding a few pounds to the equation . Swingarms.....well.....as stated above …..for twin shock with minor mods......B12 - 1250 / all gsxr's without top bracing / zrx 11-12 / thunderace 1000 to name a few .

you can cut stock seats that will take 30/26 ( stock 28.5/25 ) or go the more expensive route and have oversized bronze seats installed and cut for 31/27 valves . max valve size for stock oil cooled head without offsetting the guides . Kibblewhite ….Ferrea ….are among some of the good quality valves

MTC do a 84mm / 1307cc for gsxr/bandit

the 1100 has top mounted clip-ons.....therefore there will be holes on the top triple . 86-88 1100 have no ring around the ignition switch....85-87 750 have no ring around the ignition switch …...the 89(K) 1100 has top mounted clip-ons and therefore will have mounting holes on the top triple ……(89-90 US model K/L conventional forks / non US 90' and on where USD ) the picture above is a (88-89 ) 750 .

Yes John.....that is my point Being able to unscrew the stud will free up the frozen portion inside the cylinder block stud passages …..by adding heat to the cases ensures the stud will have less resistance .

front end will go in with bearing kit ( all balls ) rear swinger will go in but the 750 had a 6" wheel.....that …..won't go in...…..unless you dive into frame mods .

not to rain on your sunny day but centering the wheel in the swingarm and having spacers made to suit is not the best idea...….you will need to align the front and rear wheel before you think about spacers and chain run …...so step 1 : wheel alignment 2 : spacers 3 : chain run

keep soaking all the studs with penetrant........you can try the double nut method or use the stud tool ( if you have one ) to try and unsieze the steel studs from the ally casting ....if using the stud tool , get it placed on the stud as low as possible.......try adding some heat (don't over do it ) to the threaded portion of the upper crankcase .......then slowly twist out the stud . repeat the process for each stud .