Jaydee

Wonder is it the power jet? Part number 32

I've used Halfords Engine Satin Black on the last 6 engines I gave a spring clean/service/rebuild. What I like about it is the black dulls down a touch and has a hint of grey. Looks far more subtle i.m.h.o. Just brush it on and it flats out as it drys. Never found the need to spray on as happy with the finish, key is not to repaint any area till dry from the last coat. As long as you have all loose dirt, flakey paint removed and the engine degreased and bone dry, the finish will last in all weathers.

As Gixer1460 said, squish depends on the head gasket thickness. I've always set up my squish at 0.9mm (0.035"). For example, if my head gasket is 0.6mm thick (0.9mm squish minus 0.6mm gasket) then I know the piston must be 0.3mm below deck height.

Nope. The w/c are identical exhaust port spacing. Inlet flow might be different between waterboiler and oil cooled (carb spacing) but outlets are the same. Easier to fit a w/c exhaust to a slingshot than a stock one as w/c exhaust hangs lower and further out from the engine, i.e. offers loads of clearance. The reason I mention that the downpipes were welded to the collector (Cobra system) was to point out that the exhaust port spacing is the same. There is no fiddling around to fit. The downpipes need shortening to look right though because of the hang.

Any pics? A mate of mine had a slingshot with a full Remus system. It was a while back so can't remember if it was 4/1 or 4/2/1. Downpipes were very skinny, but it looked to be baffled just before it meets the can. Not the most elegant system I've every seen but look to be good quality.

Same as oil cooled. I've used gsxr 1100 93-98 downpipes (solid, as in welded to collector) on slingshots a few times. Port spacing is identical. They hang a little odd, looking from the side though.

Maybe it's to aid extra cooling to the outside? Some Suzuki engineer might have figured it helps cool the oil better running through the block? Only a guess on my part though.

Sure it's not bigger jets in the middle? Done in other makes of bike too. Inner two cylinders have bigger jetting as they runner hotter than the outside cylinders which get more airflow. Aids cooling to the inner cylinders.

Yes, an 84mm bore is 1301cc on slingshot/bandit.

Does it have any good info on the forks F.b? Wouldn't need the whole manual, just a few scans of the front end data.

You shouldn't need to have a spec list of the cable in the diagram. Look at the fuse rating for that circuit, this will tell you what gauge wire is needed to be used. Just reread and noticed you stated you have no fusebox. Have a look at a few wiring diagrams from other Suzuki models in GS, GSX ect, . They are all pretty much the same amp rating in their circuits, i.e. 30 amp starters circuits. Even the wiring colours in certain applications can be the same between different models over years with Suzukis.

I've used Vehicle Wiring Products and Kojaycat in the past. Can't go wrong with either as both offer an excellent service. I finds Kojaycat very useful as they have a lot of stock block connectors for Jap bikes so no having to change the connections on switches and other ancillaries.

I'd start with getting your hands on the wiring diagram thats needed. It's not a case of one size/gauge wire does all. Too big a wire won't channel small amps efficiently and too small a gauge with big amps overheats and burns out. Look at the fuse box in the diagram and break down the wiring in to individual circuits. The fuse amps indicates you what gauge wire you need for a particular circuit. Just write down the wire colour and it's gauge as you go along with how much you think you need (plus a little extra).

Slabby left and right foot peg mounts have different spacing, don't they? You'd probably be better off getting some adjustable mount plates made and mate some second hand Gilles rearsets to them. That way you can expand your search in to non-Suzuki rearsets too as you can swap the mount plates over.

If you are using a mark 1 engine in a mark 2, you'll have to drill and tap the output shaft for the speedo sensor. Easy enough to drill. @fatblokeonbandithas done it a few times.

That what I used. Bought it through Debbins Performance a good few years ago.

Think indicator location is different. 750 has them on the headlight fairing and the 11 on the mid fairings.

@Blueif you need a 1052 dual picks and rotor, I think I have some on a top end wanked motor under the bench. Just have to double check but pretty sure there on it.

Try and get a slabby 1109 gasket instead of 1127 slingshot gasket. Look at the top of your barrels to check the size of the six counterbores for the head gasket seals. Slabby use 17mm seals and slingshot/bandit use a smaller 15mm seal. Simplier to match gasket with correct seals to the correct barrels since you're about to order as opposed to using whats sitting on the shelf.

Yes, Jason @fibermandoes a very tidy RK style single seat unit for slingshot frames.

Bandit 12 and gsxr 11K-M share the same slave cylinder design. I've never seen any other design being used across the sacs oil cooled range when its got a hydraulic clutch.

The details missing in that matrix for GSXR1100 95(-98) are lenght *775mm 50 top, 55 bottom, spindle dia. 20mm, calp. spacing 90mm. *Matrix error 775mm not 765mm same height as 93-94 forks but different design to 95-98 type.

Bandit 12, gsxr 7 and 11 slingshot speedo drives are the same.

I've tried to fit an Akrapovic 1127 system to a slabby 11 once. The cradle front rail on the slabby frame fowled the exhaust. I couldn't get the collars to meet the ports. Might be a different story with other makes of exhaust though.

Yes, the cable and pull/push knob set ups are interchangeable, well between bst36ss type mikunis anyway. I changed from a cable to knob on a mates trike as it was a better set up for him since he has only the use of his left arm.