Jaydee

Don't assume that the plunger pins stay in this position. As soon as you lift the throttle , the pins move, along with the pistons in the float. The pistons should lift with the aid of their springs (and maybe a little fuel pressure from accelerator circuit, not 100% sure on that). Flatsides don't like to be wacked open suddenly at they will take a huge gulp of air. The whole idea of the accelerator circuit is to spray fuel in to this extra air when the throttle is snapped open. You can see the 2 plastic cams that the plunger pin rest against between carbs. They slap the pluggers when hard accelerating. When overhauling the carbs, make sure the plungers are cleaned properly and new o-rings on accelerator nozzles. Use nozzle slots to reposition facing in to engine.

I have worked about 6 sets of vm29ss carbs this year alone! Yes perfectly normal to have 6-7mm of accelerator rod sticking out. As said, check that the 2 pistons in the floats move freely. Also push back the 4 brass accelerator nozzles and check their (2x1mm) o-rings. Every set I worked on had perished o-rings which would stop the nozzles spraying to their full capacity since the accelerator system is pressurised.

Check all 4 diaphragms for any tears especially at the edges where there weren't seated properly. Usually feels like a delayed throttle response because poor air vaccuum to lift and drop the slides due to leak. Easy one to check.

Just measured an 1127K arm. 227mm (without cup washers) at the pivot point.

Looks more like a casting mark going by its location.

Only if your pistons are XC type. This code refers to the piston ring widths. XG for example is 1mm, 1mm and 2mm for top, middle and bottom rings respectively. Yes. Genuine Suzuki is the best.

Yes, same hole spacing.

Your forks should have 214mm between centers, newer k series gsxr stuff have 207mm centers so newer mudguard would be a little slimmer sitting in your forks. Usually k series mudguards have twin mounts at the front, but can be mounted with an adapter plate. Personally I wouldn't bother as there's plenty of mudguards to choose from that are a direct fit such as, gsxr 750 L up to last of the srads, gsxr 1100 L to 98, TL1000S/R, early busa, etc.

Call them anything you like, just don't call them katanas! Major sacrilege and highly offensive on here to do so. So much so it's in the rules. Not really, bandits 6 and 12 are good donors for worthy O.S.S. projects and will always be mentioned, (just not photographed as we know what they look like). The mods may give the nod to a bandit if it's undergone some serious work to make it not look like......a bandit. Hmmm maybe, why not try reading the rules again.

I remember Stu at Warpspeedracing was doing some tasty billet top end oiling kits. Might be worth getting in touch with him. As you said you already have a kit and only need a fitting with a mounting hole for the mid-fairing. He may be able to run you one off or have something in stock. warpspeedracing.co.uk

Mk.1 and 2 bandit front wheels are the same. Slingshot fronts can be used if you prefer the look of offset spokes. Mk.2 forks have no tab for the speedo drive to lock against so you'll have to use the mk.2 spacer. You need to get a mk.2 mudgaurd as it mounts sideways to the forks, mk.1 bolt from the top. Mk.1 and 2 rear ends have the same swingarms, linkages, and wheels. I have a mk.2 rear in a mk.1 and couldn't see a single difference when comparing the two. As for 5.5 inch rear wheels, mk.1 and 2 bandit or slingshot L,M,N, preSRAD 7 and 11's, SRADs have 5.5 inch wheels.

I.I.R.C. I've heard Toyota mr2 headlights can be used to replace kat ones.

Looks like Yoshi Cyclone downpipes to me, not Duplex.

@baldrick This any help to you? I didn't bother giving the works with shadows and contours since it more of a colour swatch to get an idea.

Leave it with me and I'll have a crack at it on my 4.20 break tonight.

Better than a 3 year old after 41 beers........

Yeah, I can have a bash at it. Do you want to send me a pic or just use a file pic, something like this?

This one?

Both bandit 12 mk.1 and mk.2 forks share the same dimensions and are very interchagable. Same part number for mk.1 and 2 stantions. Only real differences are in the fork bottoms where the mk.1 mudguard mounts from the top (like a brace) and mk.2's mount from the side of the forks. Mk.2 has a spacer instead of the speedo drive with no protrusion on left fork to catch the tab on a speedo drive.

Bandit 12 (mk.1) uses the same carb tops. If you need one, message me your address and bung one in the post.

It's usually the 180 degree fittings that touch off the bottom yoke if the cooler is mounted too high. Just do a mock fit. Some of the brackets that come with coolers are 'universal' and sit too high as they are meant for mounting coolers upside down (bandit style) which clears the yokes.

You could just take the whole clutch out and bin it. I did the gsxr spring conversion last week. Wish I did it sooner as I now have a feather light lever along with a clutch with zero slip. Here's the link. Have a read of the 'gsxr coil spring clutch conversion' before you read the 'bandit coil spring conversion' above it. http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/category/the-vault/page/5

@Danm54 was making the adapter. http://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/5214/slingy-billet-suspension-knuckles

Understatement of the year I'd bet.

Going by the pics, the rubber tips have sunken in slightly, which means they should be replaced for new ones. The float needles metal bodies look fairly corroded anyway. Shiny ones don't stick as easy as rough corroded ones. If the needles have corrosion, chances are the wells do to (if brass). Might be no harm getting a rebuild kit if the bikes been lying up for a long time. A decent rebuild kit would come with all the correct sized o-rings, gaskets float needles (and wells if applicable)