Jaydee

Where abouts are you in Ireland are you? I've set up a good few oil cooled bikes if it needs sorting out. I'm in Kildare.

If you're after a usd front end then gsxr 1100 95-98 forks should be long enough seeing as they're only 5mm shorter than bandit 12 forks.

I put a set of 36's from gsxr 11K on my club mates gsx1100g trike. Stage 3 kit and dual foam Pipercross filters. Pulls like a train. Spins rear wheels in the wet and lifts front end with ease. Also as a side note, with the G, the fuel pump can be ditched and carbs can be directly feed by vacuum or gravity.

I have it printed out. Just don't have a scanner. I'll try and get it scanned as it's handy info to have for the site.

Vacuum from engine pulls back a diaphragm inside the tap letting the fuel free flow (just like prime). Shut off engine and the diaphragm shuts off the passages the fuel is flowing through. Sounds like you need to take apart the tap. Might be a blockage (rust/debris/paint flakes stopping the fuel. Might be no harm ordering a rebuild kit for your tap. They're fairly cheap.

There's 2 types of carb top shared among a host of Suzuki in-line fours from 88-98. The short ones on gsxr 750/1127 slingshots. (part no. 13502-17C00). The tall ones, same as bandit 1200 mark 1 models and watercooled 1100's. (part no. 13502-17E20) Same part no. for bandit 12 if you want to look for yourself. Not all the info you read on Ron Ayers, Alphasports or other parts fiches sites is word of God. I find plenty of mistakes when cross referencing parts on these sites. One example is the carb top part number for gsxr 1100 from 93-98. They keep swapping from short top in 93, to a tall top in 94, 95, 96 and 97 and then back to a short top for 98. All the watercooled gsxr 1100's had the tall tops. Pic below shows shorter slingshot top beside a taller bandit 1200/gsxr 1100 watercooled one. Taller item's slide spring retainer protrudes pass mating surface (unlike shorter top) which is a handy way to i.d. if you don't have two at hand to compare.

Yoshimura sold/used Earls kits on their bikes. They had more than one option available for slingshots. (Pics taken from 91 catalog)

My mates L has been lying up for some time. Have the feeling I'll be the one getting it back on the road at some point. Might not be for a while yet. But if I do, I'll remove the perspex unit and copy a template from it to upload on the site for future reference. Just not sure when as said mate has too many toys at the mo.

I saw this perspex version somewhere on the net a while back. Don't think it's a one off since one of my club mates has the same fitted to his 1127L for years. I know it's not a Yoshi one but hey, we like pictures and any info might be of help.

According to the 1991 Yoshi catalog, the heat shields were made from aluminium heat blanket glued to 8 gauge plastic.

Yes, all vfr750/800 hubs and Triumph s.s.a. hubs. are interchangeable. You'll struggle to find a 3 spoke Triumph 5.5 inch wheel though (180 tyre). Plenty of 6 inch wheels available.

Oh yeah, knew there was something different about the 2 discs. The off-set more than the diameter.

Yes. Both wheels have a 5 bolt 86mm pitch circle diameter. Bandit discs are a smaller diameter than slingshot though.

Original setting is only half a turn out. 4+ turns out seems a bit excessive. (I'm assuming these are fitter on a slabby 750?) Sounds like you might have problems with the slow circuit such as clogged slow jets or air jets and you're bypassing them be using fuel from the accelerator circuit and choke to get the bike started. Does the bike keep running on tickover once warm or do you have to keep blipping the throttle or the bike cuts out? Might be no harm getting the carbs ultrasonically cleaned and have all galleries and jets blown out with compressed air. Have mixture screws set at half a turn then and start from there. Type in '90 degree carb tool' on that auction site. This one is by Motion-pro.

Should be. Haven't on the road yet as it's a current mid-build project but have the front end done for ages. Not a problem. I have detailed tech drawings with all the measurements. *Now even though I carefully measured, planned in every meticulous way when designing the parts, the front wheel was 1.5mm to the left. Not a problem, just remade the spacers to suit the proper re-alignment. Once I did that, everything lined up, discs where bang on centered to the radial calipers. . Small bit of trial and error in setting up. But that's always the way when truing up a front or rear end for that matter.

Should be in front of the carb tops (towards engine) See arrow.

Done plenty of mix'n'match front ends. You can get around this in most cases with a bearing swap and new matching crush tube to go between the bearings. For example, a slingshot wheel has a 6204 bearing (47x20x14) which can be swapped for a 6005 bearing (47x25x12). It won't matter that the new bearing is a little slimmer than original as you will have to make custom spacers to center the wheel in the forks. Anything is possible when it comes to mixing forks, yokes and wheels. I have a front end made up of K3/4 radial forks and calipers, 320mm flat discs and axle, slingshot 750 yokes and wheel. I had to make a few parts to get this all to work such as spacers/adapters for mating k series discs to slingshot wheel, spacers for the calipers, spacers for aligning the front wheel and axle locknut with new threads 7mm further out than original to allow for the forks now being 214mm as opposed to K series 207mm centers. Here's the fork matrix if you can't find it.

Put a spoonful or two of bicarbonate soda in the water. It helps break down an acidic or alkaline reaction quicker.

@VJMy scanners fucked so sorry about the crappy photo.

Maybe it's with the 1100 calipers. Looked the same as a slingshot one as it mounted the same way via torque arm. As I said it was a long time ago that I did the mod so memory is a little hazy.

Think Caferacerdan got a little mixed up in his arms when he mentioned a wp arm (which is a banana not braced) WR and onwards have the braced arms. Braced arm models use the same caliper as slingshot held by a torque bar which is attached to the bottom of the swingarm. I did an 1100 braced arm in an 1127K which is similar. It was a long time ago, think I used the slingshot wheel (1127L) and its spacers in the braced arm. I used the w/c dogbones with the 1127K knuckle, and sleeved the pivot bolt using w/c sleeves glued to the k sleeves.

Yeah not a problem. I'll be seeing my mate tonight. I'll get him to bring the manual so I can scan the important bits.

I picked up the official gsx1100g Suzuki workshop manual for a mate. It a has a very detailed chapter on the drive shaft and think all the ratios were mentioned I.i.r.c. He's away for the weekend. I'll see if I can get a loan of it and take a few scans of the important bits.

Nothing wrong with nylon. It's used in plenty of engineering practices because of its resistance to wearing down through friction. Can't see you having a problem with nylon as easier to get to grip the needle and stay in place. An alloy version might run loose on the needle and cause it to wear which is what you're trying to avoid in the first place! Any drawings of said widget? Might be able to get a few hundred run off some nylon rod by my cnc guy if they actually work.

Jason is well known for all kinds of fibreglass bespoke stuff here in Ireland. If he doesn't do a particular item it's usually because nobody has asked him to make one yet! @fiberman