Jaydee

The same with the Mocal coolers I bought recently.

I think Blubber mean to use thicker gaskets as a remedy. Would make the downpipes sit further out for more clearance.

Half the stuff does be road rashed and bent up with a ludicrous price tag. They like to overuse the word Yoshimura in their listings. "Yoshimura wheel" which is just a stock straight spoke Suzuki wheel, nothing special except the price for example.

Yeah. I've mk2 altenator, trigger plate, clocks and loom on my on my mk1 bandit engine in my mk1 bandit. Very interchangeable between mk1 and 2.

Other than the PAIRS system on the mk2, both barrels are the same dimensions. The engines are similar but mk2 has different alternator, trigger plate and the output shafts is drilled for a hall sensor for speedo.

If you have the carbs off, there's no harm removing the mixture screw, spring, o-ring and washer (after you recorded how many turns in so you can set turns out on reassembly!) Then remove slow jet and blast the whole slow circuit out with compressed air. Make sure you blow out the slow air jet too. If there was contamination in the slow circuit or clogged slow air jet, it may act up intermittently. This could be telling you feck all especially if drain hole is partially blocked. How sure are you that the bowl is truly empty? Did you try swapping bowls? I'm just throwing out some thought's on the fuel side of things. Also you stated the the floats are separate from the float needle. So that should mean you have brass float seat well that the float needle sits in. Some wells have a mesh dome filter that collects with crud and can impede flow.

Could be a sticky float needle that keeps on sticking shut. But if float needle mechanism is integrated in to the float, then this is ruled out with swapping floats between other carbs. Are your carbs dual feed? As in one line to 1+2 and another to 3+4? Did you leave the bike running long enough to see if no.3 starts missing? This might indicate that the fuel line might be kinked. No.4 might start running out before no.3.

Always study any pictures carefully of any flatsides. There's a listing for Keihin FCR's for a gsxr 1100 on there. Only problem is the carbs are downdraft....

How sure are you? I've ultrasonicly cleaned many carbs that have looked far worse than yours. As long as the mixture screws aren't seized solid, it would be worth a go to revive them. Once you have the fuzzy green shit melted away in the tank, they could come up fairly decent. The plates that hold the rack can be removed and sanded to remove the patena. I wouldn't write them off yet.

Well that blows my theory out of the water then!

I think this is why Suzuki switched to cap head (allen) screws by the time they got to the bandit. Soon as I see philips heads, I get out the hammer and chisel as it more effective than the screwdriver. Dry seized screws need a bump to open.

I put manifolds on dry. As long as the mating surfaces are clean and flat, the o-ring seal properly. The sealant ironically, can cause irregular surfaces and leak like fuck. Ask me how I know.

1x3mm -mixture screw o-ring 1.5x3.5mm -carb top vacuum o-ring 1.5x5mm -float mechanism o-ring 1.5x7.5mm - float needle well o-ring 1.5x10mm -under slide guide o-ring

Check all the balance screw springs are present on the carbs. Sloppy play in the butterfly valves would make a steady idle almost impossible.

Check for a branch wire that splits off the earth strap going from engine to negative on the battery. It should be a black/white wire. The connector gets corrosion and kills power to the dash.