Jaydee

Nope, 1100 forks might be longer but the extra length sits over the top yoke for the clip ons to attach to. No difference in length between 750 and 1100 forks as in axle to top of top yoke length.

Sometimes the needle is tight on the shaft and wont pry up. Hold the speedcup (bell shaped piece behind clock) and turn the needle to break its grip on the shaft. I usually turn the needle anti-clockwise till it falls off in my fingers. The tiniest dab of superglue on the back of the needle and set it at the mark F.B. mentioned.

Learn something new everyday. Never noticed no.1 had no outlet. Assumed they were all vacuum outlets on the carbs.

I wouldn't worry too much. Plenty of oil cooled motors around for the time being. By the time they dry up we'll all be to old to ride and under 20 feet of water from the ice caps melting. Besides, oil cooled is for our generation. Let the next generation play with those plastic 1 litre water boilers thingy's. (that's if they last the test of time)

Have you checked that the downpipes aren't hitting the cross brace of the frame cradle? As you are unsure of the make it is possible it's a slingshot set of downpipes. I've tried putting a (Akrapovic) slingy system on a mates slabby 750 last year and the downpipes wouldn't sit in the ports properly because of this. Did you try using shorter bolts or try shimming up the bolts with washers to see if it takes up the slack? Just throwing ideas out there.

Do you mean are 1127K/L headlight fairings interchangeable with 1127M/N headlight fairings? If so yes, as long as you get all the right parts for the conversion. You are best off trying to get the whole M/N headlight fairing along with its mirrors (different spacing than K/L) and the bracket (no.33) that goes between the headstock and M/N headlight subframe. As the M/N headlights sit closer back toward the headstock you'll need an M/N speedo bracket to fit your K clocks into. M/N clocks sit higher up to clear the subframe. Not sure if you can bend the K/L speedo bracket out of the way but clocks would look shit sitting almost vertical. As for trying to fit custom lights into the fairing, a lot of work since the headlight is bolted to the subframe and then the fairing itself bolts to the headlight, anyway you'd probably get a good deal on the M/N headlight if you buy it with the whole fairing as one complete unit.

There's no wrong vacuum take off to connect to. But number 2 is probably nearest the tap. Any of the 4 carbs can be used. The other 3 vacuum take offs are missing their rubber bungs and causing air leaks on the other 3 cylinders (assuming you didn't take the bungs off before you took the pic). Bungs only come off so you can attach carb balancers to them when synchronising the carbs. The vacuum pulls on a rubber diaphragmram inside the tap to open it internally so the fuel can free fall (like on prime) Shut the motor off and the diaphragm shuts and stops the fuel flow.

That welding looks 'interesting'. Don't worry, a few well aimed smacks of a hammer and you'll have snapped off all the cowboys work and be back to square one.

F's have helical cut gears (as opposed to straight cut) for a quieter touring motor.

The clutch cases are all interchangeable between everything from any oil cooled 600 right up to all the 1127/1157 motors. The only real difference with the cases is the oil capacity number stamped on them. The 1052 MTC extended cover will fit on an 1127.

Correct.

Don't think you're going to have much luck with cheap coolers. The reason they are cheap is that they are a generic copy of popular cooler sizes (which limits size choice). You should bite the bullet and take the hit. Earls do extra wide curved coolers that that are 1.25 inches thick as apposed to standard coolers with 2 inches. Also, you should be able to mount the cooler a little higher as the fittings should clear the bottom yoke. You may even get away with the 16 row curved cooler (14.25 inches wide) as it may has more cooling area than a standard 19 row cooler (13 inches wide). http://www.earls.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=345

Yes, you can swap them for plain clamps usually found on any Nissin master cylinder that is fitted to clip ons, as in sportsbikes where mirrors are fitted to the fairing.

If the busa pistons are 81mm then a 1052 motor would be 1201cc with them. 1186 sounds like an 80mm bore on an 1127.

Yes but bandit 600 had Keihins not Mikuni's if I remember correctly.

BST36SS Mikuni's.

88-89 were 31's (BST31SS). In 90 and onwards were 33's (BST33SS)

Tried to use a 750 set of front fairings on my 11K year ago but gave up when I noticed how different they both are when you have the two together. The 750 fairing is narrower at the front (probs with fitting over 11 subframe) but longer where it joins the mid panels. You could use the 750 mid panels but (from memory) the 11 clip-ons fowl the 750 fairing (behind where mirrors mount). 750 clip-ons hang lower (beneath the top yoke). Think I had a fowling issue with the damper also. Visually, you can tell 11 and 750 headlight fairings apart very easy. 11 has round ram air holes and the 750 have ram air holes that contour the edge of the headlights. Load of subtle differences. You can't use a 750 screen on an 11 and vice-versa, slightly different shape. I'd keep looking for an 11 K/L top fairing as too much messing to sort out the 750 unit.

3 ohm (green coils) for a standard cdi is recommended.

Dug through the slabby stash pile. This one is from an 11H. Second pic shows the top fairing brace/mirror mounts.

Check out Kojaycat while you're at it. They do a lot of replacement Suzuki connectors. Worth a browse. http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Categories/Yamaha_Wiring_Loom_Connectors[1] *I noticed the link may shows a non-Suzuki brand but it'll show Suzuki connectors in the link

Sometimes it's the tank itself. Not high enough wattage or not enough transducers. The KHz matters too. Usually most tanks are 40KHz which produce smaller bubbles for cleaning action. 25KHZ produces bigger bubbles just not as many but is used in industrial heavy duty cleaning.

No I don't know. Thought Shane is mates with Jack Frost up in Holeshot so possibly goes through him(?) Isn't there some crowd near you in Santry that does rebores and tuning. They might be worth a shot. I can find for you. As for boring cases, maybe try Dave Walsh in Bessington.

For slabby 81mm bore is 1201cc (1216 kit) and 82mm is 1225 (1246 kit). Handy to do the maths. Take slingshots capacity and divide by its stoke (59) then muliply by slabby stroke (58)

Cheers Swirl. Now I know the stock (14.6mm) float heights should be good. Any one know the jet sizes for the G offhand?