Jaydee

@markfoggythat stand was made by Gia Engineering was it not? Remember seeing a photo a good while back. A work of art.

If that's your own shed/warehouse, then that's the fucking understatement of the year! Good luck with the build.

Nope.

Also helps if you can find the Suzuki part numbers for the items you're after. A lot of the time I just enter those alone on search engines and eblag and can find what I'm looking for. Part numbers can be found in the link below. https://alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm

Here one I found on the net a while back.

Where on the forks is the 5mm difference? Are the settings matching on both sets of forks? Maybe something as simple as the sag set up on one set and not the other? Or progressive springs in one set? Or is the length difference on a solid part like the outers?

Just out of interest, what pitch was the front sprocket and did it clear everything or did you have shave a little off?

I have an Ohlins shock and gsxr 1100 95-98 forks (only 5mm shorter than bandit ones) in TL1000 yokes on my b12. Totally transformed the bike. Didn't have to uprate the fork springs either as gsxr11w's are around 30kg heavier than a bandit. Love the Ohlins as it also has the spring tensioner so can adjust for carrying a pillion.

The XC stamped on the top of the piston is the ring configuration. XC is 1mm top, 1.2mm middle and 2.8 oil rings.

Did you check the condition of the piston rings after you managed to get the barrels off? My guess is a few of them are seized solid judging by the battle you had.

I have fcr39's with 46mm o.d. spigots. They are a perfect fit with 1127 M/N 40's manifolds. At least you can rule out those manifolds as being to big for your 42mm o.d. inlets. 750M 38's manifold would be the logical choice if 36's are too tight and 40's are too loose.

@WolfI'll have a look and see what I have. I can scan it for a better resolution.

Did you prepare the area well before you applied the thread locker? Red thread locker is a medium strength locker which is what I use. I never had any problems. I wash the bolt in hot soapy water to clean off the oil and let it dry. Then wipe any oil from the hole with dry clean rag. Then apply locker to the bolt and hand screw it on the first few threads. Then I get out the air impact gun set to the max and ram the fucker home as hard as I can. You'd be lucky to get anywhere near the specified 150Nm. Job a good'un after the locker sets.

I know what you mean about how heavy bandit systems are but swapping the bandit frame for a slingshot one is probaly where the biggest weight saver will be.

@KATANAMANGLERmight be able to help? I.i.r.c. he was taking requests from the vault.

Just make sure it's a 5.5 inch wheel that you are buying because if OZ are stating it's a 11K fitment then they might be offering a 4.5 wheel.

Have you tried splitting the caliper? Pins usually left sticking out of one half which give you the room to wiggle out them with vice grips.

1100K has a 4.5 inch rear wheel (160 tyre). It's the L models and onwards has the 5.5 rear wheels (180 tyre) which are easily swapped around. Harder to swap between 750 and 1100 as one has a 5 segment cush drive and the other has a 6 segment cush drive. Can't remember which without checking. You should be okay with getting aftermarket wheels as long as you get the correct sprocket carrier to match the cush drives. Disc fitment is the same across all slingshot and pre-srad water cooled 750 and 11's.

Yes. Have a crashed mk.2 1200 frame. Way wider headstock stop compared to my mk.1 1200 Winter hack. Mk.2 bottom yoke must have lockstops further apart than mk.1 bottom yokes(?) Soz for crap pic.

This any help?

Yeah perfectly normal finding a little oil in there. I once had an 1127 engine with a windowed gen cover. I could see a tiny pulse of oil squirting against the window on tick over. Just make sure you have a good gasket on it and you're all good.

Water cooled 11's have lock stops on the rear of the bottom yokes. Similar set up to srad/tl/busa but headstock stop is round the back, not on the front.

SB6 is an acronym for Suzuki (based) Bimota 6th version.

Best way to measure floats is to tilt the carbs back until the floats tab stops against the little retractable pin on float needle. Basically you measure the height without the floats weight pushing down on the float needle. The little tab RESTS against the float needle.

Its missing a cover with a reflector. Item 28