Jaydee

I use an air impact gun to strip out clutches. Saves a lot of time.

Did it have the undertray with tail lights built in? Looking for one to cut up and modify. If it's available let me know and we can do a deal.

A hyvo chain might be stronger because of the extra layer of links but it doesn't mean that they don't wear as bad. No problem with the links stretching, it's the roller pins that wear with grooves from the links. Top pic is a new replacement hyvo b12 cam chain, the bottom pic is the old chain, which was an inch longer. No wonder the timing was slightly off!

Not quite, gsxr (assuming you mean slingshot) is the same spacing as mk.1 bandit. Mk.2 carbs are a few mil different spacing to mk.1 @no classI have 2 sets of mk.2 carbs on the shelf. I can measure them when I get home later if needed.

Either way will work absolutely fine. You can mount a bottom fed cooler a touch higher (than upright) as you don't have to worry about the top mounted 180 fittings hitting off the bottom yoke when turning the bars on full lock.

I'd try to narrow it down to where the problem is. As in which carb and whats causing it. Just because the carbs were ultrasonicly cleaned, doesn't mean that there's no debris trapped in one of the passages to a float needle. Only takes the tinest spec to hold a needle off its seat and empty a tank overnight. There's a chance that the float needle seat o-ring was pinched/sheared/tore on installation or it was defective and is leaking in to the bowl. The little springy pin on the back of the float needle could be jammed in. Seen this before where needle not long enough to shut properly. Or the old classic, a slightly tight float stopping the needle engage fully. I consider a good healthy set of float needles to be the last failsafe in keeping fuel in the tank, a must with down drafts. I would remove and bench test to narrow down which carb leaks and investigate it further.

Be careful or you'll get the ban hammer. Such profanity is frowned apon round these parts.

Oil cooled and water cooled have the SAME exhaust port spacing! You won't find that out by gauging it off photos. I've used water cooled systems on slingshots a few times. Biggest issue is with the contour of the downpipes. They can look a little akward as they don't follow the slingshot frame rails too nicely. Below is a photo of a watercooled 1-4 Cobra system on a 11K slingshot. I had to cut about 20mm off the collars and reweld or it would have stuck out more.

Don't know what pistons they are but the grey might be a ceramic coating to reduce heat saturation.

Have a look at this recent thread. Bottom of first page, Cockney Rick found something similar rattling around in his carbs.

Goes right underneath the battery box. Has the circuit breaker mounted to it upside down.

Ah, with you now.

You need a fine needle nose pliers to grip the metal shaft from turning. Now turn the knob in the opposite direction from reset. The knob is screw on. Sometimes they are glued back in place so you may have to break its bond.

The part numbers might be varied, but if a Suzuki has 43mm stantions, it's the same type fork seal and dust seal across the board no matter what year or model. I've used gsxr K series, busa, TL seals in my gsxr 1100 oil cooled and water cooled 43mm forks. Even used a set of gsxr 1100K seals (were on the shelf) in K3/4 radial forks I was rebuilding. It's easier to find GENUINE Suzuki seals for newer models than older. Same story with 41mm size stantions, one size fits all. Only problem is when buying full rebuild kits as bushings can be specific to whatever model it's for.

Should be okay with 3 ohm (green) dyna coils as they are pretty much universal on an inline four. Anything with less ohms, 2.2ohm (grey) or 1.5ohm (red) for example will run hotter as they offer less resistance to the spark.

Yeah, knew a fella that had a Polygon/Pest framed gsxr 1100. They used the side cam feeds as engine mounts.

I wouldn't class that as a reason not use pipercross. The installed jetting might have been better suited to a slightly less air flowing filter. As dyno time is expensive, it's quicker to swap filters to suit jetting than changing jets to suit filters. But that doesn't mean you can't get more bhp from the pipercross with suitable jetting.

Could be a gummed up slow circuit. Having it on choke bypasses the slow circuit. At 5k revs the bike would be running on mains. As you state 'bought cheap' it sounds like it was lying up for a while. Only real course of action is a full tear down and ultrasonic cleaning, servicing of the carbs. While you're at it do the valve clearances and fire in some fresh plugs too.

Are you sure? 11K is definitely 205mm and the USD L, M and 750/11 are 214mm.

It's called inflation. You get less fuel for a fiver than 10 years ago. In another 10 years you'll be telling us how you used to get 20 miles from a fiver worth and now you only get 10 miles!

What ET said plus the oil level is 107mm.

I've cut the shaft off an allen key and put it in a drill before. Quick short bursts on the drill. I had fork horizontal clamped in a vice by the caliper lugs (oil emptied) for comfort. Try either pushing in or pulling the stantion while using the drill as may offer some resistance to the internals spinning. If that don't work, try localised heat on the bolt to break down the threadlocker and repeat.

Trigger's brush sprang to mind when looking it over.

@BuzukiThis any good to you?

Don't know if it would fit but gsxr 1127K also has 205mm centres. Might be worth checking out(?)