Jump to content

Duckndive

Members
  • Posts

    2,671
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Duckndive

  1. The Nut should have a Tab Washer "WASHER (09167-25007)" behind it that is used to prevent the nut coming loose yes its defiantly worth making the correct tool to hold the hub while you torque it up
  2. What size was moonies Dan Wagner outlaw motor ? I thought that had a stoker crank but seam to recall it had the origninal block ... As the only other stroker motors I,ve seen in the UK are yours and the one in Woodys "Ex BigCC" Spondon Kat ...
  3. not done it but you can do 1307cc "84mm" or 1338cc "85mm" using the appropriate liners in a stock block allegedly ..... or go clever big "expensive" stroker crank and big bore ..
  4. Yes it should as they both use the same sump...but silencer mount may be in different places
  5. You can go 1260 in an EFE "1150" block but the liners will be a little on the thin side at the bottom ....hence 1230cc being the preferred option for longevity I,ve done 1260cc in an EFE block using GSXR pistons and liners and decked the block 2mm I, also got a 1398cc "ish" in an EFE block using bigger liners but as Ian said it does break thru and you need to seal the liners ..and run external oil lines . Downside of big block is cooling and heat soak " done that as well" but its all good fun
  6. the slabbie 73T gear wont match the bandit crank gear ...and the rest "inner hub ,springs and plates are the same as the 1100F "powerscreem" one you already have why don't you just machine the face the hub enough to get the nut on full thread
  7. Rich will sort your need
  8. Is this any use to you ? it came of a GS1000 tank "think" 50mm hole centres
  9. Kens Shop is not far from you TBH and he wont give you any bull5hit 2 Spring Corner, High Street, Feltham, Middlesex Call 020 8890 5353 info@cooperized.co.uk http://www.cooperized.co.uk
  10. Yes that would be about right I have a V711 motor that is Shim Head....
  11. If you use the right "750" clutch cover you don't need to drill the main-shaft......just need a cable and lever..
  12. Clutch ....I hate the Diaphram clutch
  13. either TBH but I would use the Blandit as the block has thicker liners and I would also do a coil spring conversion "but that's just me"
  14. Clive,s Blow Thru.......234.08 BHP with a Nice Straight Line Duckndive "Clive" 1216 Draw Thru 239.92 BHP...not quite as Straight its all ways good to see side by side comparison on similar engines ..in fairness Clive Blow thru would most likily make a bit more on Race Gas as mine was running on but "confession" I have never been a Huge fan of slabbies' I like it a great bike well put together as is Rosco,s
  15. Clive & Clive One 1216 Draw Thru and one 1216 Blow Thru
  16. Yes an excellent day and good turnout along with the usual suspects always nice to put faces to new names as well in the cyber age we have these days... Dyno Guy was excellent and very informative well worth the ££ So well done for organising it Paul....
  17. when I put the slider clutch in I split the front callipers to individual cylinders the one that was cable tied to the forks is normaly on the l/hand side and is used for the burnout as holding the brakes on the R/hand and getting it wound up was a bit of a problem ..
  18. what clutch ? I have good used GSXR steels and fibres I can take
  19. ready now well will be when I get new battery for the van in morning
  20. Very Apt considering its 50 years since they did what the JFK quote was originally about so yes as I can remember it that makes me old
  21. What’s wrong with your one ? as there are specialists that can fix most issues
  22. And I have done "although its now were near Banoffee Clean" are we having a sweepstake on who makes what ?
  23. Draw Thru is all back together with a normal lock-up ready to go .i May even wash it.. Bitza Blandit is good to go subject to room in van. See you all there
×
×
  • Create New...