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Ok so 100°C is something that is defently too hot to touch. Then i should get oil gage....

I am wondering about engine (not oil) temperature of my 1100e 80´. Before renovation (10y ago) worked ok like it does now. But i cant remember how hot was engine. I dont have oil temperature gauge but it seem very hot. After normal ride in summer (30-35°C) i can beary tuch engine... Im using Castrol Classic XL 20W-50. Pretty much new oil in engine. Are these engines that hot? Is that normal?

Hello. Few days ago i noticed petrol smell in garage. Then i see that gsx is leaking beadly. It was leaking from carbs in to engine and then from rear sprocket oil seal So engine was full of oil/petrol. So everything is dismounted, i will wait till petrol evaporates totaly. Then engine flush with new oil. Then i dismounted carbs. When i set petcock to PRI it starts to leak beadly from carb 1 and 2. Floats and needles that opens/closes petrol work ok. Cant figure out what is the problem?? May be float hight?? With petcock set ON everything is normal.

If i press cloutch in netural and i try to spin sprocket i can feel same thing. It is getting stuck time to time.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17nm_B43jy8zB0WQZoNQ8YcV75A8RMmtL/view?usp=sharing

I have bought rebuilded engine for my GSX1100E. Clutch basked assembly was missing so i bolted up mine. When i fired up bike for carb synchronizing there were no problems. When i wanted to test gearbox (on table with wheel raised) i noticed it jumped in gear. Ok maybe it was in first gear allready, im not sure. Turned of bike, found netural with no problem. Started over and here somes sound from gearbox like it will jump in gear by its own. Engine was rebuilded by professional mechanic. Only thing i did was to tighten clutch basket nut (30mm). I admit i used dewalt cordless that could do 200nm (20kg) torqu and then secured it with washer. So this is the only thing that i did that has somekind connection with transmission. That nut should have 5-7kg torque. Could it be that i over tighten that nut and now whole shaft is beeing under too much tension??

Ok. High-low beam is solved. Anybody has picture of that thing im missing in front brake switch?

Ok. Here are few pics. On glihts switch i have only position on Off or On. Switch will jump over S. So dash parking warning light should stand for what? On front brake switch is missing one part i guess. Could somebody take photo??

Hello friends! I have few unsolved problems on my 1980 gsx 1100. Wiring was all a mess so im trying to solve everything. 1) low beam - on handlebar i have only option HIGH BEAM (ON-OFF). So NO low beam switch, no light on dash for low beam. I guess when i turn key on ignition position low beam + position light should work. 2) front brakes stop light switch. I cant find what part am i missing. There is somekind of switch screwed into front brake master cilinder on handlebar. Between lever and switch i have nothing. What am i missing?? 3) dashboard PARKING light. This stands for side and central stand? I dont have any cables left to connect side stand microswitch?? Wtat should i look for?

Ok. PROBLEM SOLVED! Thanks mates

Where to airbox? ive got no holes?

I have rebuilt my GSX110e carbs. It has been few months since, so i have forgotten how fuel lines travel. Please see picture and correct me if im wrong. Green - main fuel line (in the middle of carbs) Yellow - vacume line (left side in front of carbs) Red - overflow lines (they travel somewhere under carbs? They are in case of crash? Overflow? Thanks