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Posted

Thanks for dropping in..

Its been A while that I wrote here, I had some health problems for over a year now and was unable to do a lot of things most people take for granted.
Thank fully things are getting better now bit by bit.


I found a nice set of brake calipers that I am planing to use on my efe, but they have been in storage for some time.
So I was hoping to get some of your expertise on how to proceed.
The set was cleaned ,greased with caliper grease and stored dry .... all the rubbers and seals feel ok and are flexible.

Can I just use the like this, or would it be wise to replace all the rubbers and seal.
Or should I keep on looking for some that are still connected to brake line and are under pressure.

Many thanks  Tom

 

 

Posted

Brakes are black magic, you never know if they get better or worse when you touch them.

Ok, that was just joking but actually my experiences are somewhat like that. So I would just bolt on the calipers that you have and see if they work properly. If not, then it's time to start thinking alternative options.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you all for your advise.(y)

I wil do just that, bolt them on and hope they aren't leaking.
Long time ago I read somewhere it is better to keep the pressure on for some reason, can't remember exactly what is was.
Thought I'll just aks in case it was a Big NO.
 

Posted
15 hours ago, wraith said:

If you don't keep pressure in the master cylinders they seize up, both front and rears

That's a new one on me! My GSXR as been standing for about 10+ years and both brake MC's and clutch master function fine! Maybe if they stand after use / dirty / sub-standard anyway, then they suffer?

Posted

Can you test the calipers? Flat piece of wood between all pistons and some pressure. Making sure all the pistons retract when the pressure is relieved.

If it needs sorting, you probably want to do that before messing with brakefluid.

  • Like 1
Posted

@wraith, so that's what it was.. Thanx.. I know it was something but could not remember what.. so calipers should be fine for testing.

@TLRS, That was a bit of my worry.. spilling Brakefluid everywhere. I'll just set them up in a dummy mode using a known working mastercilinder and a short Brakeline.

Sometimes I just overthink a problem making it hard for me... while it could be so simpel.:/
Thanx you all    :D

  • Like 2
Posted

If it's airpressure you want, probably best to use something else then a m/c. A bicycle pump is a bit ghetto but even I made it work :tu

Posted

I did try my compressor once to get the pistons out.. That's something I'll never do again:P

Anyways.. The pistons are moving back and there is no Brake fluid anywhere so looks like I had some luck..

 

Thank you all for your help (y) 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

If you come across a piston that just won’t move, take the caliper off the bike. Find a lever type grease gun. Remove the nipple end of the gun. Screw the gun into the calliper. Carefully! Pump. Even the most stubborn piston will hoist the white flag, and meekly come out into the light! Nothing can withstand that pressure. Just sayin’.  ;)

Edited by Swiss Toni
  • Like 6
Posted
2 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:

If you come across a piston that just won’t move, take the Cali per off the bike. Find a lever type grease gun. Remove the nipple end of the gun. Screw the gun into the calliper. Carefully! Pump. Even the most stubborn piston will hoist the white flag, and meekly come out into the light! Nothing can withstand that pressure. Just sayin’.  ;)

thats a good idea Toni :tu

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, tomtom66 said:

I did try my compressor once to get the pistons out.. That's something I'll never do again:P

Anyways.. The pistons are moving back and there is no Brake fluid anywhere so looks like I had some luck..

 

Thank you all for your help (y) 

I hadn't thought of the grease gun approach, so I did the same with the air compressor. The pistons come out with "authority" and in a fecking hurry! 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, slayer61 said:

I hadn't thought of the grease gun approach, so I did the same with the air compressor. The pistons come out with "authority" and in a fecking hurry! 

Grease gun just eases out. No drama’s!

  • Like 2
Posted
On 7/20/2022 at 3:55 PM, slayer61 said:

I hadn't thought of the grease gun approach, so I did the same with the air compressor. The pistons come out with "authority" and in a fecking hurry! 

Yup! You’ve got to keep your fingers out of the way … and the cat!:o

Posted

Medical syringes which you can get from pharmacy are quite commonly used for brake fluid bleeding, simple man (like me) would easily think that it might work with piston testing? Never tested myself, just a thought.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Grease gun it is then :)

I have seen them push the brake fluid in .. at the calipers.. but on a normal bike.. so the air would exit at the Fluid reservoir. 

They used a medical syringe like tool .. This was A long time ago so details are a bit blury.  

Never tried it myselve.. but could this be an option to do on a motorbike?  

Posted

Grease gun will get it out as Swiss Toni says. Have used that trick a few times, a little bit of mess to clean up but normally the relief of getting the piston out makes up for it.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

If you’re in a pinch you can use a can of brake cleaner to pop them out. Doesn’t require much, they’ll shoot out like little mortars if you go overboard.

Posted
On 8/2/2022 at 10:25 AM, tomtom66 said:

I have seen them push the brake fluid in .. at the calipers..

Never tried it myselve.. but could this be an option to do on a motorbike?  

Don’t do that. There’s a controversial guy on YouTube who’s recently posted a video of doing just that. There’s no point in placing a comment, as anything even slightly critical (even constructive) gets deleted. Any shit in the dirty fluid gets pushed up to the master cylinder and the tiny lip on the cup seal is less able to deal with particles than the big square seal in the calliper. The new and old fluid mix as it creates little fountains and vortices in the fluid. Finally, the bleed nipple is at the top of the slave cylinder for the obvious reason. If you’re back-flowing through the bleeder, you’re bound to admit air, that will not make it through the calliper to the reservoir - so will have to be purged in the conventional way. 

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