Jonny

Hi there, Quick one: I am running an EFE motor with non-standard clocks and no longer have the oil temp gauge in the cluster. I want to add one and was wondering if I can connect any electric temp gauge to the EFE sender or if the senders work differently. ie I need to match the sender to the gauge? Thanks, Jon

Just to add to the reading list, I can recommend Motorcycle Tuning: Chassis by John Robinson. It's like my Bible. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motorcycle-Tuning-Chassis-John-Robinson/dp/0434917249

Really helpful! Thanks for the info. when you lined it up, did the chain alignment look good?

Hi there, I have seen the swap done before and like the idea of upgrading to the OZ wheels. Anyone know what is involved in the conversion? I'm pretty sure I'll need spacers but what about disc offsets, chain aliagnment and spindles? I'd like to be able to cost it up full first as the wheels from eBlag will be around £800 on their own. Thanks. Jon

The photo attached shows the standard settings for 36mm carbs on a K and L model (89 and 90).

Ah okay. I knew there was a D-stamp in there somewhere.

I’ve never had a set rechromed but have bought a few sets from ABE in Greenwich over the years. They used to be £180 p/pair and I never had to buy a second pair for the same bike again.

I seem to remember reading on another thread that the restricted cams were stamped with a ‘D’ for Deutschland.

I’d try taping the pick up to the top of the seat, or somewhere where it is not enclosed, and take it up the road. You’ll know then if it’s a location issue with the pick up or not.

I have a GPS speedo too. The pickup probably needs moving rather any setting up. Mine is under the tail unit but if it is not in just the right place you get that fluctuation. Great looking bike BTW!

At least that is enough time for a new build!

Don’t suppose it really matters. IMHO, 2 is probably the closest so probably best.

I have an 1100L and the vacuum take off comes from carb 2. I thought they were all done like that?

The switches are fairly simple to rebuild. Often just dismantling and cleaning the connections will have it working like new. You can get many of the internal parts from Suzuki still.

Really? That’s interesting because I have an 1100ef motor in a ‘78 750 frame and the engine has to come out to take the heads off. It’s about an inch too short on clearance.

You could always buy some GS spokies and have wider rims laced on! That would be very cool!

OEM is the best. Most aftermarket kits aren’t up to the job on these bikes. I’ve heard good things about APE Trac King clutches though…

NGKs are great leads to use. I swear by them but Taylor leads are the most popular and about half the price.

Cable choke and pull choke are created using the same throttle bodies. On the cable choke models the holes on the carbs for the pull choke mechanism aren’t drilled out, but you can see them on the bodies. So you can convert either way.

I normally buy something from used from Eblag (Nissin/Brembo/Tokico) and then get a rebuild kit, if needed. At least you know you can always get the parts.

Here’s my 2pc worth: You need 4 things to repair your bike; space, time, knowledge and tools. Make sure you have all the them before you begin any job. It sounds obvious but if you are in a rush or are missing the right tool… Use YouTube to see how other people have done the job before you. when taking things apart, take photos so you remember how they go back together- especially useful with wiring. Dont force stuff. If things won’t come off as you think they should, you have probably missed something. this is the best place to ask questions about your bike. There is nothing on it that someone here doesn’t know. good luck

That’s the tool I have but I have the Suzuki branded version.

I remember measuring up a Blandit 6 front end for an 03 GS500 because it had twin discs. Never saw it through but looked quite a simple job.

As far as I know as long as the wheels are pointing the same way, you can get away with a fair bit of latitude and still be safe. I’ve heard of bike’s coming out of the factory being up to 5 mill out on alignment. I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong.

There is a Suzuki ring fitting tool you can buy. I have a Cheapo cheapo set from Eblag but I needed to cut the ring clamp in half lengthways in order for it to fit between the block and the casing for the second pair. This had the added benefit of giving my two of them, which I needed.