cheshirekat Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 seem to remember something on the old site about hydraulic conversion on gsx1100 ef any on e done this on theres what bits did they use thanks Quote Link to comment
simesman Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 Seems a lot of effort. Must be a difficult conversion with the external clutch arms that the EF has. Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 You can get the slave cylinder off Eblag now a days You then just need to make a fixing bracket. 1 Quote Link to comment
cheshirekat Posted June 28, 2019 Author Share Posted June 28, 2019 what is the slave cylinder listed under on eblag thanks Quote Link to comment
jensvonbustenskjold Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 I've got something similar to this https://rover.Eblag.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.Eblag.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312166967927 Quote Link to comment
simesman Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 Never seen one of them, looks interesting. Do they reduce lever effort by a significant amount? Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 4 hours ago, jensvonbustenskjold said: I've got something similar to this https://rover.Eblag.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.Eblag.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312166967927 That's the joby Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 (edited) I have the Frando conversion (available from Venhill) on my efe engined bike, and it makes not one jot of difference to the weight of the pull of the clutch. It's going back to cable as I cannot see the point of added complexity for no clear gain. Here is a link to the high-quality waste of money. https://www.venhill.co.uk/controls-amp-handlebars/hydraulic-controls/frando/frando-clutch-cylinder-1270mm-long-11nbl.html Edited June 28, 2019 by Dezza Quote Link to comment
dago Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 I tried something similar to that but it was either dragging or slipping not enough travel. Quote Link to comment
Sheep Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 (edited) Grow some 'man hands'...... Edited June 29, 2019 by Sheep 1 Quote Link to comment
Duckndive Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 I seen this some ware maybe not pretty but effective clutch slave from a c#r Quote Link to comment
gshub Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 The answer is simple Man up? my Gs1085s had APE Clutch sprngs strengthend Springs and the owner has grips of a Gorilla or work as hard as I do... Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 (edited) If your handy with a lathe it's not to hard to make it all yourself, I converted my GS1000 to hydraulic. Edited July 1, 2019 by Reinhoud Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 Some of us have reduced strength in various body parts due to e.g. past crashes, so it's not that helpful spouting all the 'man up' bs when it would be very helpful to have a reduced load on our clutches. It's like saying to Mick Doohan that he should have simply 'manned up' rather than have his engineers invent a thumb brake so he could use the rear brake as he wished to after he'd smashed his left leg to fuck in a mega crash at Assen. 5 Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 Telling Mr Doohan to "man up" ? I don't think your "short term prospects" would look very good. Quote Link to comment
vizman Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 Or as chopper would say ‘harden the fuck up’ Quote Link to comment
cheshirekat Posted July 1, 2019 Author Share Posted July 1, 2019 not a case of manning up got severe arthritis in my wrists and knees so it becomes uncomfortable to ride any distances with out discomfort thought hydraulic conversion would enable to ride for longer 4 Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 5 hours ago, cheshirekat said: not a case of manning up got severe arthritis in my wrists and knees so it becomes uncomfortable to ride any distances with out discomfort thought hydraulic conversion would enable to ride for longer My sympathies with that condition but no reason the clutch can't be converted, it's just going to take some engineering. Find a bike with a hydraulic clutch that suits your strength and replicate the master cylinder bore size, the slave cylinder bore size and stroke and ensure the stroke matches the case clutch lever required travel - you may have to change the ratio to match. 1 Quote Link to comment
gs7_11 Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 First thing is to check that the clutch is working as advertised. I hear a bit about GS 'man clutches' but I've got 2 and I don't think they're particularly heavy. It pays to make sure the cable routing is right, with no unnecessary binding of the cable to the frame etc. A new cable helps, and I'd recommend a genuine cable. Expensive, but I've found pattern cables stiffer and wear out quicker. Also, my 115bhp GS1000 had a totally standard clutch. Fine for road use, never slipped. 2 Quote Link to comment
Gammaboy Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 The wrong lever and perch up on the bars can make for a very heavy clutch lever too - my Kat had a lever from a GSXR600, which due to the pivot ratios made for *very* heavy clutch actuation (The distance from the pivot to the cable end was about 5mm longer vs the original Kat lever) Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 Extend the lever on the clutch cover a bit. Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 After much deliberation I think gs7-11 is right here. If the clutch action is made easier to pull by changing the leverage ratio, then the clutch will disengage less for a given 'pull' so drag problems can occur. My hydraulic conversion must have had the same ratio as stock so it felt exactly the same as when it had a cable. Having a lighter pull and then it could get clutch drag so the best way forward is to first go with optimal lever, perch, cable and actuation mechanism by making sure all parts are in good condition, correctly lubricated and corrected routed. And ditch the 'performance' springs unless absolutely necessary (try 3 first rather than all 6) as this is a good way to having a clutch that feels like it should be on some sort of WW2 tank transporter rather than on a bike. 1 Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 22 hours ago, cheshirekat said: not a case of manning up got severe arthritis in my wrists and knees so it becomes uncomfortable to ride any distances with out discomfort thought hydraulic conversion would enable to ride for longer Have you also looked at a air shifter? Not just for the race boys, seen NABD use them for people who have lost/limited use of a arm. 1 Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 1 hour ago, Dezza said: After much deliberation I think gs7-11 is right here. If the clutch action is made easier to pull by changing the leverage ratio, then the clutch will disengage less for a given 'pull' so drag problems can occur. My hydraulic conversion must have had the same ratio as stock so it felt exactly the same as when it had a cable. Having a lighter pull and then it could get clutch drag so the best way forward is to first go with optimal lever, perch, cable and actuation mechanism by making sure all parts are in good condition, correctly lubricated and corrected routed. And ditch the 'performance' springs unless absolutely necessary (try 3 first rather than all 6) as this is a good way to having a clutch that feels like it should be on some sort of WW2 tank transporter rather than on a bike. When I converted mine to hydraulic I did some calculations, it's as simple as the ratio in travel of the pressure plate in the clutch and the lever on the handle bars.. Big advantage of hydraulic is that cable routing is almost non important, and that was also a bit of a problem with my bike. 1 Quote Link to comment
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