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About bluedog59

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    Sledge Hammer

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    East Midlands

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  1. There's always one philistine.
  2. Would you change the colour of a pair of Ohlins forks ? Would your paint a pair of AP Lockheed calipers ? The spring is the colour it is because it is what is. The trademark colour of a quality piece of kit.
  3. People overlook how important "feel" is. The best set up in the book is little use if it feels like you're squeezing a brick.
  4. Stuart Garner. Now there's somebody who deserves the wrong end of a splintery stick...with a nail in it.......dipped in dog shit. For starters.
  5. The weight saving probably balances out losses.
  6. Yep, mount a fancy caliper on a nice, long lever and reintroduce all that lovely flex the fancy caliper was designed to eliminate...........and maybe a little more for good measure.
  7. The spring is a service item and the manual gives a minimum free length for replacement. They are pretty cheap and easy to replace.
  8. If you're going to pull it apart you can add the price of new gasket set to the cost at the minimum. Then add, " I'd better change that seal etc etc while I'm in here" and the cost just keeps going up. Do you need to pull it apart other than for painting ? It will take a lot less manhours to clean the engine well enough to get a very good finish to than strip it, cart all the bits round to get them blasted, paint it and rebuild it.
  9. Check the spring length against spec. They have a service limit and quite cheap to replace. Give all the internals a clean while you're in there.
  10. By the sound of it, you have a right mismatch of parts and could just end up going round in circles. Have you checked the emulsion tubes aren't worn ? B12's are renowned for it. My advice is the same as others, get it on a Dyno. Find a Dyno shop you can trust, try to book an "off peak" time and ask if you can be in the Dyno room while they're running it. Stand out the way ( never go behind a running bike ) watch, listen and ask the operator to explain what the various readouts are showing and you will ride out more knowledgeable and wondering why you didn't do it earlier.
  11. More power will never solve a lack of talent.
  12. I wasn't suggestion "de tune" them, just be careful not to sacrifice too much at the bottom chasing that last little bit at the top.
  13. And while you're working hard, playing tunes on your close ratio gearbox and trying to keep that peaky motor singing, wondering if you dare tap the power just yet............. The guy with a broader spread has pulled 10 bike lengths on you and going 10 mph faster. Race engines are great on race tracks but become a pain on the road. Look at the course before selecting your horse.
  14. I would concentrate on the torque curve if you plan on being the old guy on the "sleeper". With a fat mid range you can kick their ass while they're winding it up then roll it off before speeds gets silly ( because you're a "sensible old guy" and your chassis is going to start struggling soon anyway). Hit them in their weak spot. Lack of mid range.
  15. There's a couple of things about dynos and HP. 1. The final figure is not the important one. It's the difference between what you started with and what you've now got. 2. It needs to to be the right type of horses and importantly, torque. Don't build the engine you "want" chasing the top line, build the torque and power curve you ( and the bike ) needs. Do you like to ride it like a race bike or use mid range "grunt" ?
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