Gammaboy

I've had the opposite problem, it's been 40+ degrees C in the shed....

Hah, yeah, being one of Oily's (which explains the carbon half of the airbox) yours has been well looked after at least up until the point it sat, mine (well, the main part) got dropped off it's side stand at some point, got bought from the insurers and say as a parts donor at one of the Bimota importers. Anyway, after 4 years of not having the bike to be able to work on it, I'm finally getting back onto it, and remembering where I was up to....

I think one of Oily's other bikes showed up worth a new owner on one of the bimota faceache pages? I think he may have passed away at some point?

2000 year model? It would have been built 97 at the absolute latest, SB6R ran 97-99... Can I ask what frame number? I think this makes 7 SB6 owners on here Sibag, Evil chicken, BimotaMartyn, ArcanumOne, Angry and myself being the others.

Haha, so didn't actually fit the gasket untill a couple of days before Christmas. Had planned on getting a fair bit done over the Christmas/New Years break, but between the shitty, stinking hot weather, and all the other (non Bike related) shit I wound up doing, I didn't actually touch it... However, holy shit, I did work on it today. Pulled the seat unit and tank, dropped the top of the radiator and swapped out the coolant pipe that had the buggered chrome that I rattle canned with black Killrust with a new old stock unit I'd picked up. Thankfully, past me had made a point of lining up all the hose clamps so I could actually get at them. Of course, this particular pipe never sees daylight, but I know it's there.... Also swapped the mounting bracket and heatshield across from the stock cans to the factory "race" cans - tips certainly fill the hole a bit better, but I forgot to take a pic.

Aaaaaand the answer is the gasket was there, everything was untouched... the bit of black sealant was from the Suzuki casebond goo that had extruded out and then been squished during installation of the cover. Anyway, 4 degree advanced rotor fitted, new gasket arrives Thursday.

So last night I was digging through my boxes of stuff I picked up while I was in Euwrop, and realised there was an ignition advancer there... so had a quick look at the cover and realised the factory gasket was not there, which struck me as odd for the low mileage this thing has... what's the bet that when I whip the cover off, there will be a Yosh ignition rotor in there? Ordered a gasket, will pull the cover to have a look tonight. Stay tuned for tomorrow's episode!

So, almost 4 years after dropping it off to be stored at my mate's place, I picked it up yesterday and dragged it home. Good/funny to see it again after 4 years. Guess I better get cracking!

94/95 uses a larger swingarm pivot bolt. The usual trick when fitting the braced arm to an earlier bike is to use the early bearing inner and spacer inside the later bearings and spacer. Obviously this won't work going the other way, the only way I can think to make it work is having threaded adaptors machined to adapt the early pivot bolt to the later frame. As mentioned, the head braces have to be discarded or cut and shut for an 1100 or RF900 bottom end swap (allegedly this will make it floppier than a WN, as the frame wall thickness was reduced on the WP). Early 1100W engines don't have the boss for the head braces.

All the talk of decking is in relation to the bandit liner/1360cc set-up. Nope, 1075 cases need clearancinh for 1135 liners. The bandit liners are shorter than the stock ones, so them sitting 3mm lower is not an issue. If you're skimming 3mm off the flange of the liner, you have about a mm of flange thickness left from memory, which has been shown to be marginal. You have to bore the block for the larger liner flanges anyway, so might as well do it deeper and keep the flange thickness.

I'm wrong on the difference in carb settings being Mk1/MK2 - E-04 is French market, which got neutered cams (as opposed to the inlet restrictions that some markets got).

1150 liners are bigger OD (hence the bigger over bores that are available)

Have the block skimmed before the liners go in, skimming the top once they're in is easiest, but gets a bit thin on the liner flanges. Skimming the bottom is a pain in the bollocks once the liners are in.

Oh, and here's the breather/vent

Here's what the manual says. Of course, one of these settings is for the Mk1 bikes, the other for the MK2 - I guess driven by the difference in cam profiles

There's a breather sat just Infront of the filler cap, with an overflow hose coming off of it. Dare say it's not working if the tank bloats. If it's building pressure, it's going to fuck with the effective float height and the fueling. Don't know honestly. I've set mine up to the Bimota workshop manual. Of course, I haven't even been in the same hemisphere, let alone put fuel in it for the last 2 1/2 years. Hoping to change that this year.

Is this finished yet?

Bypass pipe will work. Not sure if there's a way to make the bypass internal though.

Lower radiator you're looking at is probably a Panigale rad.

Annnnd K-tech have come back to me, they're an uncommon sized cart, 22mm, so a K-tech piston kit isn't an option. They also said that re-valving is pretty much a waste of time/money for them. Which sucks.

So, a while ago I bought a spare tacho and water temp gauge as there was a little wiring oddness I wasn't sure about on mine. The gauges are made by CEV, and are very similar to Ducati 916 and Cagiva Mito gauges (in fact, I'd say apart from the bezel shape and the face, the Speedo and Water temp are the same, Tacho is a bit bigger). The Tachos have a little three pin connector on the back, and on the Mito, and a number of the parts gauges I bought a whole back, the connector pins had broken their solder joints and pushed through. The tacho on the bike wierdly has 3 wires direct to the board, and a slightly different sub loom to every other one I've seen. Anyway, a bloke I the UK had a tach/temp set with sub loom and carbon surrounded for sale, so I grabbed it. Skip forward to a few days ago, and someone else posted on the UK Bimota faceache site seeking a set of gauges, not sure what had happened, but the lense of his Speedo was shattered, temp had a big crack (like all the Ducati and Mito ones do!) and his Speedo lens and bezel were completely fucked. So I wandered down and grabbed my gauge set, ready to offer them for sale, when I realised I could just 3D print a set of bezels. So, what you see here is the culmination of about 15minutes of measuring and cad work, two 5 hour test prints to check the shape (needed a tweak) and size calibration (turns out I had to tweak my steps/mm by 1%) and then another 14 hours of printing, and 20minutes of tidying up with a scalpel and some light sanding.... Original bezels are shitty plastic, so the 3D print is possibly stronger. They of course need prime and paint, and a lens glued in (2.5mm acrylic shaped on a shaving mirror should do it), but should get him out of trouble. And of course, while measuring my spare tacho, I discovered two of the three pins had pushed through on the connector, and someone had made an attempt at prying the bezel off in one spot... So I'll need to do something about that in the future. Hell, now I've got the cad sorted, I could even get them CNCd in aluminium and anodised... So, no real progress for mine apart from the fork cartridges making their way to K-tech, but at least something SB6 related.

US 1100Ws got BST36. RF900 is a 36 too, and just stumbled onto a thread where a guy re-spaced downdraft FCRs from a ZZR1100 onto a RF, so respaced ZZR carbs may be an option there too (I have a feeling SRAD carbs would be *too* downdraft).

Scratch that. Found the info I was looking for. 95-98 1100 got cams that made more mid range, less lift and duration.

So, factory cams - for the 1100Ws were they the same for all years? I vaguely recall reading something about the later bikes getting different cams, but not 100% on how they differed. Obviously the 750W cams have more duration, but less lift, but were they the same for all years too?

That would be cool.