wraith

If I remember the gs1000 used a SAE10 as standard. May help.

There is one of the modern mud wight bikes ( think it a kwak?) That if you are not looking for it could be taken for standard gsx wheels, but will give you the better rubber. Do like your plans a proper sleeper

I think the slaby had side lights, because I was told anything after 1985 had to have sidelights, mirrors and indicators for a MOT. You can take a feed from the brown wire from the rear light and link it to a front sidelight, if that helps.

Or silver post 2000

I think they are both 14.5mm? So I'd just see how it runs. Two times you will see the float height coming in, one of they are flooding or two if you're not getting full power at top end/full throttle as a main. It all depends on how bang on you want it, and if so have you match the slab ports to the bigger bandit carbs Like I say how bang on do you want/need it, dose it run well or do you want it to run race well

You could try gsx1100f cams

Unless it's a gsx750f motor, then it will have a DOT on the side of the head and no cc stamp on the side of the barrels.

Have a look at the project pages seen it there somewhere.

Basically yes, you are best putting a new sump gasket on

Yes, you MUST replace with new the clips after you have removed them the Wiseco kits come with there owen new clips, but I think they are/where a bit week ended up putting OEM clips in.

Mmmmm, rat bikes that takes me back still can't beat Mad Max 2

I believe the gsx1400 arms are very wide at the pivots.

Wey I man like, very canny up here (still learning the lingo) Northumberland A689 Hartside road Must say some for the roads up here makes the cat & fiddle and snake pass feel like a nice Sunday pootle

Yes the 750 engine will go into a gs850 frame with lot's of room, the good thing with the gs850 frame is that the swing arm mounts/pivert points are wider the the chain drive frames. My last gs1000 build i did, I used a gs850 frame with a zx9r swing arm and a gsxr 5.5" rear wheel all went in with on problems and had lots of room for the chain run. the biggest thing is you will need to make up a sleeve to weld into the frame swing arm holes to match your swing arm. I welded mounting plates on the swing arm to keep it twin shock but be easy to make it single shock

Nice one all some good info there Got new bush's for the forks as well as seals but when I get in the shed and strip the forks down i will do some measurements of all parts The bike is only for road use so over stiff forks won't be to good Will have a look into the Emulators, I've always put progressive springs in fork and like the response you get with them, but always up for trying something new Just put a gsxr1000k1 rear shock on the bike and that's made the back end 100% better. The reason I'm looking into this now after so long after building the bike, is around here where I'm living now the roads are a lot more demanding on the handling comparing to the roads in Derbyshire

Nice one always learning I will see it @fatblokeonbanditcomes along to tell me about the Emulators

??? These forks are new tec for me use to more gs/gsx forks, and putting old 2p on the top of the springs to make them stiffer So what's Emulator ? And or linear springs, I know being a bit derrr

Ok, may be a daft question this Going to be doing the forks seals on the forks on my kat, which has gsxr1100k forks fitted. Always thought they seemed a bit soft in some ways, and I know under heavy braking the sliders will move apx 2.5-3" but seem to bounce to full extension over bumps sometimes. (yes have played with the settings ) So instead of putting the SAE5 oil in, should i put a SAE7.5 or even a SAE10 in ? That's the question. Got new seals and bushes and thinking of getting some Progressive springs? ( always helped with the air cooled forks ) PS. the last seals (OEM and SAE5 oil) have only lasted about 2000 miles max, yes the fork tubes are good with no pitting etc. Thanks.

I have a set of the cheep gs1000, 1100cc big bore kit positions (from China) in my gs1000g, been in there for about 2 years and used the bike every day all year round for work with no problems. never put on a rolling road, so can't tell you what the bhp is, but you do notice to extra torque

I would think you would have a problem with the valve spacing with the 2v head and the 4v piston. 2v head, are the valves the same angle as the 4v head ? Valves hitting top of pistions.

Went to a streetlights do (a long time ago ) and they had a mobile Dyno, where not doing work just running the bikes and giving advice, the 3 top bikes where all gsxr1100 Miss W at 120bhp at the rear wheel, the next one up was at 121bhp then the top one at 122bhp. no big bores etc, just all had zorst, filters and jeted.

Technically yes you still have one, but because of the way the but is threaded it tightens when the bike is moving (unlike the kwaks that undo themselves) So it you don't put one on you won't lose you nut, but it may be a real pain to get off when you want to change the sprocket

I'm shore I've seen a gsx750es with a gs tank on it in the past, but I can't tell you if, they needed to modify it or not.

Now that's a good one I believe the gsxr11 ones have a extra wire on the the cdi compared to the very early b12 (96) as after the (97 onword) had different plugs. Or should I say, I have a 96 b12 cdi and a 97 b12 cdi and the plugs are not the same and the gsx11 slingshot harness i have, has a extra wire on the cdi plug to the 96 b12 cdi.

Handlebar grips, looks verrry nice.