wraith

The bandit, forks are the longest and will give you the most clearance (I have the b12 front end on my gsx1100et) you will need to swop the stems, don't know if your b6 rear wheel is the strate Spock or curved, but the b12 are strate and the mk2 b6 are strate as well, just the mk1 b6 are curved.

The b6 rear wheel will be ok to use (common swop) it's the front end that will be giving you the problem, b6 or b12 front end work but you will need to change the stem (longer stems on bandits) or slabside front end (the gsxr j had 3 spoke 18" front wheel which will match the mk1 b6) or you could go for a gsxr1100 89 rwu front end (slingshot) or the early usd gsxr front end (slingshot) i think a SV will also work. Anything shorter than 760mm will be getting low you could go down to 730mm but watch out for the curbs as you may hit the down pipe link pipe if you have a 4-1 zorst.

And most probably bite you

What type of battery you using? Just, start of the year I get a Motobatt battery for my bike, 3 motobatt batterys latter, went back to a Varta battery and (touch wood) had no problems. Motobatt dealer told me motobatt are having a lot of quality problems (off the record ) So yes it could be a duff one which ever make

If it was not for the readings in your video I'd say your battery is fucked, the starter solenoid clicking means the solenoid is fucked or flat battery, I have known it, that you need to give the car some revs to get the power to give it a good jump start, but you say the solenoid is new. Have you tryed not putting your battery on and just putting the jump cables onto your HT leads and turning over? Or you could just have more than one problem this and what @Dezzasays.

I'd say ever a bad earth wire, or there is something wrong with your engine? How dose it turn over with the plugs out? Any fast? Dose it turn over by hand ok?

Can't remember who it was, but I think the size, type and where to get it from came up

That was cheep

7-8mm. if you have a look in the general part this is in there with all the info you need

Someone had one in the for sale bit they where braking, can't remember who.

As a owner of a Kat with a oil cooled 1127 motor in it (when I got it it had the standard gsx750s1 motor in it) the oil cooled motors is a lot of fun and dose look good, but a well tuned gsx1100 motor do look the part and can have a lot of grunt 1260 big bore, head job, cams, carbs etc I did the conversion because it had the 750 motor not the 1100, the oil cooled motor may end up cheeper, but you will also need carbs, zorst, cdi, oil cooler etc etc.

Welcome to OSS Nice looking project, there will be someone along who has done what you are wanting to do with all the info My In the mean time (if you have done so) have a look at the members project pages

Can't blame you both nice looking bikes

Welcome to OSS, Yes as above, you can/need to swop the gear wheels over, the gear wheel then locates on the oil pump gear which is behind the clutch. It can be a bit fiddley. Put some rubber grease around the rubber seal on the alternator as well.

Yes I've done this so time, and always found I've had a problem with the side lights (so it's not just you or me ) that's why I know about the brown wire from the rear light (also goes to the number plate light ) well the brown and the gray wire have have me problems which if I remember also goes to the rear light, white is the brake light and the last wire is the black/white which is earth but you know that

+1 with @clivegto4.5 turns out is a lot, had the gsxr750 38mm at just over 3 turns out on the 1127 motor, I'd say try it at 2.5 turns, see how it runs, then drop the needle by one clip.

I've seen and heard worse, a mate when he started ridding (years ago) rang me up asking me to go round as he could not get his bike to start, went other turned the ignition switch on, press the start button, and it started. He looked at me and said, I was thinking if that button did anything, I was thinking it was like a car and you just turned the key One more, The old girl up the road came other to me she could not get her new rev and go to start and she had her bike test to get to, could I have a look, watch her try and start it, then pointed out she needs to pull the front brake and press the start button for it to start. It's always worth checking the basics as @Gixer1460did (in a smart arss way ) as we all can get that involved in something we miss the very basic

If I remember the gs1000 used a SAE10 as standard. May help.

There is one of the modern mud wight bikes ( think it a kwak?) That if you are not looking for it could be taken for standard gsx wheels, but will give you the better rubber. Do like your plans a proper sleeper

I think the slaby had side lights, because I was told anything after 1985 had to have sidelights, mirrors and indicators for a MOT. You can take a feed from the brown wire from the rear light and link it to a front sidelight, if that helps.

Or silver post 2000

I think they are both 14.5mm? So I'd just see how it runs. Two times you will see the float height coming in, one of they are flooding or two if you're not getting full power at top end/full throttle as a main. It all depends on how bang on you want it, and if so have you match the slab ports to the bigger bandit carbs Like I say how bang on do you want/need it, dose it run well or do you want it to run race well

You could try gsx1100f cams

Unless it's a gsx750f motor, then it will have a DOT on the side of the head and no cc stamp on the side of the barrels.

Have a look at the project pages seen it there somewhere.