wraith

Is the same sort of thing that is on the post 2000 gsx750f speedo take off front sprocket? If so, its just a bit of steel plate with a tab on it, so the pickup on the sprocket cover has a rotation to reed. So if you used this steel plate and made a extra plate that bolted on the sprocket and the speedo plate. The only thing is you need to get the aftermarket f/sprocket with the two 6mm holes in it. Not looked up close behind a b12 sprocket cover with the speedo bit on it

Could you use the 2x 6mm threaded holes on the front sprocket to make a bolt on plate to run the speedo off?

Yes, you can drill the out put shaft, but take it slow (drill speed that is) use lots of cutting past/grease (not the valve past but the drill cutting past ) It would be best if you can remove the shaft from the engine and have it done by a lathe, then you know it will be good, true and the right size for the tap thread

If you have not yet, have a good read at Frankenstein 's page's they are very very good for all the things and more you're asking about Not saying we/I don't want to answer your questions, their is stuff in there which is very helpful and well worth a read.

Always been good with me, sorted out the dyna 2000 when it went pop (foc) and sorted new dynojet needles out after one snapped (foc), after V&M had set the carbs up, on there rolling road

I know what your saying, but if you ring dyna uk you end up speaking to the same man for either a dynojet kit and or settings or, the dyna 2000/4000 dyna coils etc. So yes maybe different companies for some reason but all in house and under the same roof and the same place sorts out repairs/problems on both things. It's like saying your suzuki with the aftermarket zorst and air filters is a standard bike officer

RIP Pete

It's a old and well asked question as well, so if you don't want to introduce yourself have a good look in the projects part and get your answers there

Good start, hijacking someone's post Try introducing yourself in the general part, put some pics up of your bike and then post your questions in the aircooled part. you will get a much better response and rtfr

A lot of people on here don't like dyna kits for one thing or the other. I've had 3 things from dyna, 1 a stage 3 kit for Miss W gsxr1100 which V&M set up on her bike years ago but it kept snapping the needles, 2 a dyna 2000 which had to be sent back for repair after 2 months and a stage 3 kit that's in the Kat which seems ok up to now and I only put it in because the carbs where worn.

Nice job

As far as I know the bearings are the same, the only thing you need to look at, is the lock stops

What about cutting the gear linkage part off, keeping that as standard and spacing the rest of the cover out?

You could put one of the fish type sprockets covers on, leave the gear linkage part as it comes, space out the clutch slave part out more, but you would also need to make a longer push for but that's just some 6mm bar. (Can see/get them on fbay)

Had oil coming out of the clutch cover breather on one of my bikes once, but now where near that much. I found that the 1. straight breather is/was not as good as a 45% one, and 2. found the hose coming off the straight breather was way too short, it water proof my right leg levers Thinking of it, your cam cover breather is not blocked? That could course the back pressure in the engine

Yes, it will work The only time this sort of thing dose not work is when you try to put a tacho off a 2 or 3 cylinder bike onto a 4 cylinder.

Welcome to OSS As to turbo yes but first put the 1100efe in it big bore it then turbo

I've heard someone on here that had had his head skimmed (bike that is ) by 0.50mm, which thinking about it is about the size of a base gasket. (can't remember who, but it was to do with a post about b12/DOT heads)

All i can think with the rivets, is when you remove the zorst and drilled the rivets giving it a good shake and see if they will drop out, as the standard zorst was fully welded up in the factory before the cover was put on and was not designed to be removed, but there is always someone in OSS land who has sorted it at some point Nice looking slaby you have there

I will say welcome to OSS. always best to say hello in the general part and RTFR before asking your question and pics always help Most people on here look more at putting better zorsts on instead of covers.

Looks very nice work. Tig welding is the easiest welding to do/learn, in my opinion but Ali is the hardest to weld well

Welcome to OSS As @Blubbersays say hello in the general bit and make shore you read the rules (top of the general bit) As to your question, did all this start after you balanced the carbs or before? 1-3000rpm is pilot jet.

The gsx750/1100 KATANA forks had anti dive, but the wheel spindle was at the bottom of the forks not at the side. it's the blanking off plate what is getting me, as all Suzuki I know had the anti dive at the front of the forks not the back/under the caliper. The only thing I've seen with a anti dive behind was a Ho#da that had a bar coming from the caliper to the anti dive, think it was a first hen vfr 750 pre single sider.

For the good old gs/gsx motors you can not beat mineral oil, but you may find not all bike shops will do it as they are more geared up for the modded things Went into a place called CMC near where I used to live and asked them for some mineral oil, they looked at me as if I was seeking Chinese

Both will work.