Swiss Toni

Hey Daryl! Welcome in!

Small world!

Go for oil cooled! Lighter, more power and younger! All are common crank cases, so would think any problems fitting one might be carb/petcock/tank clearance. Dot head, more downdraught, more problems. All do-able. Just depends how much you want to do it! Go for it! Now, back to the San Miguel, ( whoever invented that should get a fuckin' medal) and the pizza! Friday nights? Gotta love 'em!!!

Well...Slabbie to 1127, I've heard mixed reports. The 6 speed gears are thinner, to allow fitment into the case. So, some say this makes the conversion prone to 'grenading!' Having said that, one guy did it, and was over the moon with it! It's even been raced with no problems. That's why I ask about the B6/B12 conversion.

Ah well! Live and learn! You'll probably be able to pick up a decent 750 head quite easily. I'm sure someone on here was selling a complete motor. Or...go bigger? One of those more modern 1052/1127/1157 things perhaps???

We all know the 750 Slabbie 6 speed box can be made to fit the 1052 and 1127 motors quite easily. Would the B6 into B12 gearbox be as easy? Has anyone done it? And if you have, how did you get along with it?

Standard brakes are a bit wooden. See if Nissin or Tokico 4 pots can be made to fit. Or swap the whole front end for something more modern. Depends how deep your pockets are!

Do you reckon the broken head was the cause of something you did, or was it an old wound? C'mon now...'fess up!

Also, try Bob at Kent Bearings (01634 720444). Had good results from him when local factors couldn't help!

You know those tents with the springy frames. You just throw them up in the air, and when they come down, they're erected? Well...I think your PO did that with the frame and suspension! Start again, Cobby!

Try Wemoto. Full set, or individual bearings. Got mine there

Sit right, as in...how? B6 or B12 arm? Mono or twin shock?

+1! Lovely collection, and a good history to go with them! Not many have either the wherewithal or skill to do as you have! Good luck !

If you do go down that road (diesel), turn it over by hand, not on the button, or hello bent rod! If you ever do get it off, a good tip on here a few years ago was; before fitting barrels/head was, get all the studs nice and clean, cut lengths of heat shrink tubing, fit to studs leaving thread free, and shrink it. Stops the corrosion problem in its track! Still as valid now, as then!

Get a short length of 2"x 1" timber, stick it in the exhaust port at an angle, and give the end of it a whack. If it's gasket stiction, it'll move. If the corrosion on the studs has got it, keep doing what you're doing. And...don't go mad with the hammer. Be sympathetic!

The more I look, the better I like it! Some great ideas there. Looking forward to seeing it finished!

Dunno if the old Suzuki paint codes would still apply. Better to take the tank to a paint factor, who will scan it and tell you exactly what modern paint matches.

Very nice. Lots of potential there

Nice one, and welcome too!

I think there's also a difference in the fin shape too!

Do a search on this. I'm sure it's been asked before. Not too long ago, either!

That looks like a collar on the bottom of the stem, if so, and it's hard up and tight, stop worrying! FBOAB will be along shortly, he'll tell you all you need to know about Blandit fork mods. Probably!

Join the club! That's why it's called 'Electrickery'!!!

You have a PM!

Can't fault it. She's a beaut!!!