Swiss Toni

Hi Matt, and welcome. We use little engines like yours to run our oil pumps! Nah, just kidding! If you call Robinsons Foundry, give them your engine number, they'll tell you exactly what you have. And supply your needs. As a bonus, you can tell them you're now OSS, and qualify for 10% discount. Or Robinsons in Rochdale, quote 'Yoshijonny' and get 15%. Can't be bad! Glad you joined now?

Looks great! Any photo's of the complete bike yet?

I'll keep that in mind, Reaper! Thank you.

As I've just found out, so does a 750 Dot head cover!

Will the cam cover off an 1127 motor fit a B12 head?

GSR. The Stator Papers?

There you go! Little bit of perseverance works wonders. Don't forget the photo's!

There's a captive washer that acts as a seat for the circlip. If you 'wiggle' the piston, whilst pulling on it, it'll come out, and all will be revealed! There will be a rubber seal on the piston. Below the piston, will be a tapered spring, with a rubber cap. Cap goes next to piston when re-fitting.

There was an article in 'Streetfighters' a few yrs ago about the fitting of a remote system. Maybe someone has the issue, and can scan it for you?

So, is the piston stuck in the MS? If so, and you have no movement whatever, get an alloy drift, (or any drift, as you'll be renewing the piston and seals anyway). Tap the piston into the cylinder until it free's off, and bounces on the spring. Withdraw piston, clean cylinder out with Meths, then brake fluid. Fit new seals to piston after immersion in brake fluid, making sure seals point the right way, or fit new piston assy. Fit new washer and circlip,(grease washer and clip for easy removal next time). Fit dust seal. Red Rubber Grease is a good idea here to prevent water ingress! There you go, Robert's your Mothers Brother!

Can't whack the Black, with Dark and Light Blue stripes!

Ease of use. But that's no reason not to, if needs must!

Fit swinger to frame, with rear wheel. No spacers. Fit forks and front wheel. Works better ( more accurate) without tyres. Run straight edges alongside rear rim, extending past front rim. Measure offset at front rim. Centre rear rim accordingly. Measure, and make spacers to suit. Don't forget the caliper hanger! Now the chain line. You may find, in extreme cases, the sprocket carrier will inhibit movement of wheel to the left. Not likely, but possible.

Welcome! All the info you'll ever need, can be found among these hallowed pages. Probably!

Sweary Bob's Dead! Long live Sweary Bob! Lovely job, Yan!!!

Err...sort of, Steve!

Easy Peasy!

I used 5.5" rear from 750WP in std. arm. Just mix and match WP/Slabbie spacers. Same with front end. WP went straight in, as will most Suzuki forks. Most 'other' makes can be made to fit, by changing bearings, and at worst, swapping stems! Nowt to worry aboot!

Try Wellseal. Great for gaskets, and non-hardening.

I'd also go with NoClass and Oily! Leakdown test far more informative than comp. test.

1127 and B12 have same stroke. So Bandit capacity comes from bigger bore. Unless there's loads of room between cases and spigots of 1127 barrels, I would imagine you'll have to open up the top of the 1127 cases.

Seems the slotted plates would be the easiest (read cheapest) way to go?

Go with the Self Amalgamating Tape! Makes a good job!

Lucky, lucky Bugger!!!

Nice looking/bit different bike. Great composition in 2nd 'photo!