dupersunc

Pics of what in particular?

Yes that is correct.

I'm throwing together a 750 slabby road hack from all my spares , I'm talking cheap as possible here. I have a couple of 750jk motors of unknown provenance and a good set of 1052 barrels and pistons. By my calcs this will make 818cc. I know the 1052 barrels are too tall, so I need to sort that, I'm hoping I can just press out and machine down the 1052 liners and fit them to the 750 block, providing the gudgeon pin heights are close enough and the squish will work out. Anyone ever done this, or will it take a whole load of expensive machining to work.

Cheers. Funnily enough that's very close to what I'm running save for the float heights. and needle positions. I'll look into the needle spacers, and see if I can knock some up.

Just acquired what I believe is am 1100j frame in with a load of other bits. Just sizing it up against a 750g and 750 k frame I also have. Looks like the head stock is 15-20mm closer to the swing arm pivot, i.e. shorter wheel base. Is this just the case with the 1100j frames or the 1100G/h frames also? Swing arm is also the same length as a 750g but has the 1100 bracing. I thought 1100 arms were longer? It gives me some interesting options for my slabbie race bike.

There's no Cush drive on SXV hubs, and the rear hub is quite wide, as the disc is a long way out so the caliper clears the spokes. Must dig mine out from under the mountain of oil cooled bits at the back of the garage, and get it back on track.

Just picked these up from Dorset Aluminium, who've re anodised them. I'm like a dog with 2 dicks.

Can I ask what's in the kit? and what size jets. Thanks Duncan.

Can you recommend a dyno man in southern England who can set them up then, because the 2 I've spoken too, both said fit a Dyno jet kit.

Some where in my addled brain I recall Dynojet did a specific kit for fitting the 38mm bsts form a 750m on to 1127 motors. I can't find any listing for this kit on dynojet's website. Did such kit exist, and if so has anyone got a part number for it, or did I just make it up?

I'm going to try heat management first. Did I tell you about my oil cooler fetish

Nah don't agree with that at all. Compression=torque, the more the better, as long as you can manage the heat.

Absolutely this. It's one of the reasons I went for the 1100. If I end up with 130+hp, I can just back off the ignition at certain rpm so I've got maximum allowed power for several 100rpm rather than just a peak number.

Yeah, if I get a 1.37 out of it I'll be calling Davide Brivio.

Cheers Rob, your wisdom is appreciated. I'm actually really happy with how it handles, rake is already 22.8 degrees, I really don't want to go less, though it doesn't shake it's head even though I have no steering damper. The only vice it has is the slow direction change, and I'm putting that down to the weight of the wheels. So that's what I'm addressing first. One thing at a time. I'm notorious amongst my trackday mates though for not giving a fuck about chassis set-up and ragging the shit out of any old knacker. I do struggle with the latest generation 1000cc bikes though, they do seem much more sensitive to chassis set-up. Zx10r anyone, bloody terrible on track on stock suspension. I've got some data from a lad on a 2013R6 doing 1.37s , when I over lay that data with mine, I can see he's braking later or less and getting on the gas earlier almost every where. I need to re calibrate my brain to do that. The only place I felt I was near the Limit of the bike was at Charlies2, and I'm matching R6 boy there. I'm matching him on the brakes for Park too, and I know I can go deeper there, so the bike can do it. The bike does seem to loose out on acceleration, but my gearing was too long. Oh I need to add a quick action throttle to the list for Snetterton.

I've already got the kit to fit a head cooler, just wasn't sure it would be needed with a stock motor, and worth the extra weight. I now know it is needed, and I can afford to add a little weight if I fit the Astralites. I'm not keen on dropping the forks, as I'll loose ground clearance and rake. I'm not convinced I need anymore front weight bias anyway.

So the important numbers on the bike are 120bhp at the back wheel as measured on Bemsee's dyno, and 185,5kg measured on my scales with 3kg of fuel. 53.7% front weight bias. Thunderbike extreme rules are 130rwhp maximum, and 1.46kg per hp. So as it stands I need to either get more horse power, or loose a little weight. At my weight I'm allowed 126hp. But it's cutting it fine. Most of the front runners are running @127hp and ballast to get 189/190kg with no fuel. My motor is as bought save for some fresh oil and filter and a set of plugs. I haven't even checked the valve clearances. The exhaust need a baffle in it which isn't helping, and the 38mm 750m carbs had guestimate jets and settings. So I'm sure I can get 6-10hp more with some setting up and a more efficient silencer. If I go over 130, I can just peg it back with the ignition. Weight wise, I can loose a little here and there, but It's about on the money for the class. My biggest issue is the weigh of the wheels, the stock 750m wheels weigh a metric fuck ton, and you really notice that when changing direction from Chris curve to the Gooseneck, and through Hall bends. I have a plan though. I reckon these boys will save me 3-4kg, so along with the engine fettling should see me able to get the bike right on the power and weight limits with room to spare. Fundamentally I'm happy with the bike, there's a lot more from me to come before I find the limit of the bike, Next year I want to be doing 1.40s around Cadwell. My next race hopefully will be at Snetterton on the 300 layout, a circuit I know well and suits the bike better, and I intend to come home with a little plastic cup. So before then I have job list. Fix quickshifter, shift light and rev counter, Replace screen. Don't ask! Finish refurbing Astralites and fit Check valve clearances, Fit better Silencer Get carbs set-up on Dyno. Make undertray smaller and tidy up fit. Replace gear linkage leaver Re-bush clutch leaver. Over the winter I've a few bigger jobs planned. Fit 6speed box Fit Slipper clutch Fit slipperier fairing TT-F1 or 750rrk if I can find either at sensible money. Extra oil cooler. My gps logger suggests I'm loosing straight line speed as the race goes on. Engine Temp? anyone any experience of this? Sorry for the rambling post but it's a good way for me to make a note of my thoughts and plans. Duncan.

Yes he is, I could keep with him for the first 2 laps, but then I cocked up Barn, and he was gone.

Oh I was beaten to the podium in the last race by Tri**ph, sponsored by @banoffee of all people. It's an outrage I tell you.

Good thanks, few teething troubles, and a list of improvements to make, but over all very happy with the bike. Got the mountain horrendously wrong in race 2, and had to retire as I broke the seat unit mountings on landing. Fixed it for race 3, finished 4th in class, running consistent 1.46s, with a best of 1.45.7 So happy with that. Need to find 2 seconds to get on the podium, which I think I can find. The pace has moved on from last years times though.

Quickshifyer caused a massive miss fire in qualifying. Would only pull 87mph flat out on the straight. Amazingly I'm not last. Work to do in the race though.

A Man needs a deadline...... Shake down complete. nothing fell off. Bit of a snagging list to go through tomorrow and a spanner check and we're good to go.

Thanks Vizman. I don't want you coping this build though.................oh.

Shake down tomorrow evening at Henstridge airfield, Then Cadwell With Bemsee this weekend.

What Differences are there on the RK frame compared to the 750 j/K frames? Other then the seat subframe.