dupersunc

The only real difference is the output bearing behind the Sprocket. Use the correct bearing for your cases and you'll be grand. The later Bandits and GSXR1100 have a longer output shaft and double row bearing to allow for wider rear tyres, the Nova shafts are the same length as these, but you can use the early out put shaft bearings. Personally I'd start with a good GSXR motor rather than a Bandit lump. The GSXR motors are better finished, and little things like the clutch sprag are lightened on the GSXR, the Bandit isn't.

A box arrived this morning.

Flatslides may fit but Ive not tried.

I've got a 750J 1200bandit bottom with dot head. 38s won't fit.

She looks purty.

Go for it mate, If don't try these things you'll never know, but just be aware of the pit falls, and keep asking questions .

It's all related. if you want to reduce the squish you machine the barrels, other wise you skim the head. But everything has a knock effect on something else. It's were experience is needed. To be honest if you fit a set of known brand pistons clean up the head and combustion chambers and fit the bigger valves, it will probably work ok. But it doesn't always. I was talking to a very experienced engine builder a few months back who's built hundreds of these engines. he had a very trick 1100m in the shop which hd all the goodies, but he'd used a slightly different combination of parts at the request of the owner. It was making 130bhp, around 30bhp short of where they thought it should be. The builder ended up scraping the pistons and cylinder head and starting again. Just because it sounds simple reading it in magazine, doesn't make this stuff easy. You can easily loose 2weeks in a well equipped workshop building a fairly basic tuned engine right, especially if it's an untried combination.

If I were building the motor, I would un shroud the valves and clean up the combustion chambers. careful taking all the sharp edges in the combustion chamber, you want a crisp edge on the squish area. Once youve done this get the valve seats cut for the big valves then measure the chambers and calculate your cr and how much you need to skim. then check valve piston clearance and see if you need to pocket the pistons more. There are biggers gains here than cutting back the valve guides.

The shaft is fucked I'm afraid, there's no coming back from that. Will fox sell you a new shaft?

Donovan's stuff looks fantastic. Very reasonably priced too. He'll be getting a list from me once I've got some work again.

Ah yes.

Neither long or short stroke 750s had a gearbox with a hole in the shaft for the clutch. I the the bandit 600 was the only 6speed box that did. The 750 shafts are easy enough to drill on a lathe. 12mm diameter hole from memory.

Yep. You also need the thust bearing set-up from an 1100 clutch, the push rod that goes inside the shaft, the 6mm pushrod that goes through the seal, the seal with a hole in, and as Clive says you need to drill a hole through the gear shaft, which you aren't going to do with it still fitted to the engine.

Mine turns over fine. No issue at all.

I used a 2007 on one build, but felt roo stiff. My race bike has a 2005 r6 shock works really well.

Looks stunning. Personally though clear coating bare metal is too contrived. It's either bare Metal so easily inspected and repaired, or you paint, plate or powder coat in colour that suits the rest of the build. I would of loved to have left mine bare, but it's not really practical, and couldn't bring myself to clear coat it.

A 750k has a shorter block than a b6, so I guess it would be tight.

Not an RGV, defo a GK76 Ggxr400 chassis, with I believe a VFR400 arm

Oil cooled Suzuki XR51. www.racing-show.com/R750Racing_XR51/r750racing_xr51.html

Yes, just swap the pick up over. easy enough job. Might not be 100% optimal running a 600 cdi on a 750m, but it should work well enough.