Gixer1460

What are they - 30mm? It's not what you see there that makes the difference. A big hole is just that a big hole! Unshrouding, port shape and back of valve is where the flow is at - it's the guys that know how to combine them you need to find.

Simple physics - the intercooler and its surrounding ambient air should be a cool as possible to achieve the highest transfer of heat whilst also providing the path of least resistance through the cooler for the boosted air and the cooling air. The 2nd item is the tricky bit as the air needs to move slow enough to transfer / capture heat which can be done by restriction or large size. Size on a bike is critical and restriction is just inefficient. Putting an IC in the tail / under the seat violates the first premise above as it will be smaller, sitting in a hot (heat from engine) and low pressure air zone (lack of airflow) and it will also be remote from the turbo requiring longer pipe runs ie. large pipe / intake volume that needs to be filled and compressed till effect is felt - maybe milli secs but it does occur. Unless you are running a boost pressure of at least 1bar / 15psi the intake temps are mostly not sufficient to warrant an IC as the delta between ambient and boost air temp will be relatively low so that a degree or 2 off the timing will compensate. If you are chasing numbers then yes an IC will help but it need to be designed as a package and not an 'add-on' fitted where you have space!

If you can't work that one out - sell your tools and take the bike to a mechanic who does - not being funny but this seems to be way above your pay grade!

For future reference - continued cranking will not pop a fuse as the starter isn't fused. Fuses generally only fail due to 1. excessive current draw ie. there is a short circuit or 2. vibration and age. The glass tube fuses are least reliable due to construction, next are ceramic types with exposed fuse metal link - these suffer from corrosion and poor contact in fusebox. Last type are modern blade types - very reliable and easy to see failure but can be prone to bad contacts in holders. Worth removing any fuse at least once a year to check. clean and apply a bit of Vaseline to contact points.

Er yeah - thats why its called the 'Main fuse'! Problem is why didn't you check that first and why did it pop in the first place?

Then there is the possibility of breaking into the oil gallery in the cases - bores bigger than 81mm with corresponding bigger liners tend to use external oil lines and go dry block.

Does no one EVER try to use the search function here? It's there for this very reason! https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/11944-slabside-750-track-bike-project-requires-basic-loom/?tab=comments#comment-137506 Rant over!

You actually can't back off until you are in top gear - if you do, you risk wrecking shift forks and shift shafts. This is a cases split operation to replace but auto users adapt and machine the cases to allow access and replacement via the sump and clutch cavity - multi handed job but better than engine out / split / rebuild and re-install with an hour between rounds!

There is no 'sensor' inside the switch unit - its just part of the clamp to give mechanical strength. Any Orange colour wire is a 'key on' live - under the tank the obvious one is Orange / white which would feed the coils. Can't imagine what would be in the headlight cowling - alarm horn maybe?....... if an alarm is fitted then you could be in a world of pain as they interfere with all sorts of circuits!

18T certainly isn't std / normal on a Bandit nor 17 or 16! Surprised a stockish? GSX will 'pull well' that tall - geared for 180mph!

'M' & 'N' models had the nasty 40mm CV's - 'K' & 'L' were 36mm and were very tunable! I think the GSX's were fitted with 34mm CV's and so unless the engine internals have been altered to increase airflow into the head, the fitting of bigger carbs will likely result in lower gas speed / higher depression and less draw on the jets. I'd try the same jets as the 34mm carbs first off or 10% bigger for a start?

Signal from CDI / Spark box to tacho - wire colour is Black / Red or Red / Black - ( can't remember exactly)

Depends how you build it! I used 1186 12:1 Wisecos in my first turbo - barrel spacer knocked the CR down. There is also a fair amount of crown thickness that could come off with would reduce the spacer thickness and achieve a better squish!

They do and on big bored engines the CR could be through the roof but both of those look like they have barrel spacers? Optimal CR for big engine & big nitrous use is about 11:1 if you can control the timing with a degree of accuracy

He was a Cloggie so Dutch Antilles was home ish - just opposite side of the world from the Philippines LOL!

Jammy git - only reason to put those type of barrels on is BIG bore pistons - anything from 83 - 86mm dia. Seeing as a BIG piston will cost nearly $100 you stole those!

Seems all a waste of everyone's time then - getting in the way of people that are REALLY there to go fast! And claiming a record - Seriously!

I know its salt, but couldn't a std ET manage that sort of average? Serious Question!

I was only answering the question not saying it would work LOL!

Where the bang happens determines the most suitable unit ie. the 750!

Just like a stocker i'd guess - looking at the gearing! It's got twice the engines, stock horsepower but twice the torque! Having 90 deg bends on the exhaust outlets - class! It's about the jenkyest redneck combination I could imagine!

Can't imagine anyone would make a specific relay for just lights - they usually are multipurpose. So if it fits, use it. Failing that just cut the plug off, re terminate the wires and use a std 4 pin / 5 pin 30A relay which are just a couple of quid.

How are you getting a 14cc chamber? From memory a GSXR 1100 chamber is about 21 or 26cc. Thats a lot of metal to deck off with potential for valves to smack the shit out of the pistons? Thick gasket as well!

Can't actually be calculated as piston will be out of the block by a mm or 1.5mm if using a 1mm thick gasket! So subject to what thickness block spacer you use, any chamber volume and thus CR can be obtained!

Always make that mistake - mine is an 'M' and is on an 'H' 1990 plate!