Gixer1460

With a shed load of work - Arttu did it on his EFE - wanted better output due to having EFI electronics and pump to run.

Initially after the work, it was using the stock 36mm CV's and was I believe in the 135-138hp range which isn't bad.

I think you mean M48? - Good choice, if a bit spendy IMO, BTW.

A M8 has a 1216 kitted Bindit - it's had some work internally with a ridiculously lightened GSXR crank that was a 'steal it price' so rude not to, but std cams and an Ackro exhaust. Initially had 41mm Keihin FCR's and it made 165+hp but just didn't feel nice to ride so he swapped to RS36mm Flatslides and now makes 155hp with loads of torque, lifts the front in 3rd on the throttle, it's a hoot to ride and gets loads more tank range compared to stock ! ! ! with 50 more HP - how's that happen LOL! So I know what my choice would be!

And some people mistakenly refer to CV's as flatslides because the slide is flat faced! And the GSXR 750's 38mm's refer to above were definately CV's - so you see the confusion!

Need to clarify whether the OP is talking std Mikuni CV type carbs or RS type FLAT slides - different carbs, different operation and different response to throttle inputs!

IMHO a bone stock GSXR11 or a Bindit 12 will work ok with 36mm Flatslides but not optimally. Throw a bit of tuning / headwork / compression / capacity / cams and the 36mm flatties work brilliant on the road and probably the 38's will add a bit more to the top end numbers whilst losing a bit off the bottom! Got to ask yourself - where to you ride most, low to mid or mid to top? 40's are for racebikes IMO or really big capacity engines which can make them work in the midrange.

I thought these VVT turbo's were somewhat more complicated than just removing the turbine housing? And if you can't remove same, the thought of cast iron dust from grinding being fired at the bearings won't promote a lengthy lifespan - hence the disassembly answer, but I will bow to those more knowledgeable!

Oooh that'll get the haters out of the woodwork - not me though, used them a few times with good success! But why renew jets unless they are physically destroyed or blocked they very rarely 'wear out' - they maybe wrong size but that's usually pilots or mains, so not a king's ransom to replace!

It's not the pulling apart that's difficult - its the re-assembly that's the tricky bit unless you take it for rebalancing! Youtuber's manage to fuck up anything but say it with such knowing authority that people believe them! I know how to do it and always let a shop that specialises do it - having a potentially unbalanced wheel spinning at 150k rpm just below the jewels made that decision easy!

Best specialist there is - https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/

I stand corrected - DOH! I was aware of the reworked GSXR1000 units - maybe I just don't get the benefits ?

You've probably found your answer - they weren't a thing back in the days when these were race bikes and as not really competitive now, no one is likely to gear up to design and make a batch to sell maybe a couple?

Er - only a few thousand times . . . . . probably LOL! More modern engine although getting on for 30+ years old, looks lost in the AC frame, needs bigger oil cooler, carbs will be equally bad to set-up with age, more powerful generally although less torque, likes a smaller gauge chain, hardcore oldskoolers will either hate it or love it!

No need to shout about being small and not normal LOL!

And they are real simple devices - contact plate and spring. Could be just a dirty contact - they are 40+ years old after all!

The seals are O rings in parallel bored holes - they auto adjust for the height difference!

EH? AFAIK The plug thread size is same as all oil cooled GSXR's - 12mm. Cracking between the plug and the valve inserts is well known in 4V engines and doesn't affect the use of a head at all - not unusual to see multiple cracks across all cylinders. Don't work about the CR causing cracks - worry about the CR and the quality of the fuel you are using with high CR's . . . . . . detonation is the thing to worry about -it'll eat plugs, pepper a cyl. head, overheat valves and melt holes in pistons but the valve seats will still be sitting there!

I said that up top - but no one was listening LOL!

Wow - you made 5 posts out of a total of 7 since you joined in 2015, for a post that was dead 3 years ago - that's got to be a record LOL! Shame the OP never returned - he may have learned something!

Whilst some may say excessive I had a -8 from oil filler, -8 from cam cover std. breather, additional -10 from cam cover and a -10 from center of clutch cover! The -10's went to a vented and recirculating catch can, the -8's to a plain open catch can.

Sure it is the 'dry' stud and not wind blown from the drain pipe (for example - far more likely source!) If you haven't increased crankcase ventilation - it certainly won't be helping to not get leaking seals and gaskets!

Make up a new copper extension pipe with a M5 thread or make a plug with M5 thread and then try to re-tap with M4. Could be tricky as M4 - M5 has not a lot of material between the cut threads.

My first look would be the RH switch assembly - get it apart and liberal quantities of contact cleaner to all contacts whilst operating the switches! Sounds like the power is being cut intermittently so acting like a 'rev limitter'

Whether they did anything is debatable outside of Suzuki R&D but the theory goes like this - on a bike with a fairing the area inside it and around the carbs is a low pressure zone which messes with carb function (how much is anyone's guess!) The nose on a fairing exhibits high pressure and possibly 'venting' some of that high pressure 'ram air' into the inter fairing low pressure zone reduces its effect! On the flip side many, many bikes with and without fairings use carbs successfully so maybe its all hype and marketing bollux!