Metralla

I am asking in case someone already had tried this set up or a similar one and to see what to expect. I will do the dyno as well.

I have the bike almost ready (will post pics once finished) and I have a factorypro kit (not fitted). The only performance mod is a hindle full system. What do you recommend about jetting? Will I need to upjet? Only MJ? Do I need to raise needles? Do I need to increase pilot jet as well?

Thanks but I was hoping to have a more readily available answer/shortcut. Something like "I have done it, in order to have both light and side stand switch you need these P/N which are from bikes of that year and market" I know perhaps I am asking a lot, but yes that's what I want!

I have with a friend all slabsides (G, H, J), but looms are not original (except H perhaps). I have found out that G both lights always operate while in H and J only the left for the small scale. Also how can I fit a stand switch, like J, on G and H? I thought the main wiring loom is the same and only sub looms changes.

As @Dezza said, it has also to do with the disc thickness. So the wheel surface to oute disc surface gives the maximum space the OEM claims and then aftermarket guy know he cannot go beyond that. With a flat disc, then offset==thickness, which again is the available space envelope. So what is the offset according to this style of measurement?

Is it 22.5mm from the wheel to the outer dsic face? So If you put the discs on a flat surface their total height will be 22.5mm? From what I have learned, various disc manufacturers define offset differently.

I am also interested in race brackets for my J slab

What is the offset (outer surfaces)of the OEM 1100 discs?

How about the slave cylinder diameter?

I am about to replace the master cylinders with AP Racing (classic line) and I would like to know what are the OEM dimensions/bores. Also If you know the clutch slave cylinder bore.

Sorry, but I didn't find this. I have been looking for this for years now and I have already gone through the vault. (done my homework, I am not totally green). https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/741 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ But I have found something very peculiar! that the EFE can take the Slingshot Nissins! EFE normally has the opposed twin cylinder calipers. Something that it is not in the table above. This raises the question about Katanas... https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/336

I cannot see any difference between the various models using the "DOP" calipers. but SGP gives different P/Ns: GSXR1100 R/H Caliper P/N: 59100-06B20-000 GSXR1100 L/H Caliper P/N: 59300-06B20-000 GSXR750 R/H Caliper P/N: 59100-27A10-000 GSXR750 L/H Caliper P/N: 59300-27A10-000 RG500 R/H Caliper P/N: 59100-20A00-000 RG500 L/H Caliper P/N: 59300-20A00-000 GSX750F R/H Caliper P/N: 59100-20C01-000 GSX750F L/H Caliper P/N: 59300-20C01-000 Are they different? Because for example 750 front end looks like 1100, but AFAIK discs are smaller, forks have the caliper holes lower, wheel is smaller and probably the axle is different.

Not very different from what I was aiming to do actually. If I butcher blueprint a head, it will be Eblag donor. As for suspension and brakes I am going to that direction, but I do not want to use brembo M/C. Either the OEM or AP Racing CP3125, which has the period look. I have stripped the top end to inspect the cylinders as I couldn't believe it has that low mileage.

Thanks for all the replies! So... No DOT head. BST34s and stock airbox. FactoryPro jet kit that might need rejet, I have a jet gauge to compare them with Mikunis. I had bad experience from DynoJet, they worn badly after 12.000 miles. Hindle exhaust. Fast road cams and I will add adjustable sprockets. Kent cams or Web cams? Are Kents exchange only? I will put an ignition advancer. Benefits of porting? Benefits of skimming? I would immagine higer compression would be really noticable midrange. Benefits of big valves? Money is not an issue, unitl they become an issue --> I need tuner recommendations in order to get a quote for headwork labour cost. 130RWHP depends a lot on the dyno, on the dyno I am talking about, a Stock 1052 made 115RWHP a tad less than a stock GSXR750K6 (118RWHP). The figure is totally indicative, If the bike is smooth and feels faster across the rev range.

Hello I have a 1052 and I want to optimise it with the following restrictions: Bottom end and pistons will stay OEM. (it has 10.000 miles from new!) I want the airbox. What I want to understand is: What carburettors can be used? Can I use B12Mk1 BST36? What rubbers (front and rear) do I need for that? Keep in mind I want the airbox. Will the FactoryPro carburettor kits make any difference? Will I need rejetting for the Hindle exhaust? Will I benefit from skimming and porting the head? Will I benefit from larger vavles? Keep in mind it is a road bike, so I highly value midrange. What are the best cams for that? Or what is the very next performance level for the cams after the OEM cams? Is it better to use DOT head or skimming the 1052 head will be ok? As I said I want a bike close to the original specs, but optimised, I do not want mechanical carbs, big bore etc. If I get 130RWHP with strong midrange I will be very happy. Also any engine builder in UK that can do the headwork?