Gixer1460

Seconded - granted mine is a GSXR, but it takes a std. curved 'M' oil rad with a R6 fan run off thermo switch in the sump.

Its possible, if timing was out a couple of teeth, that you've bent some valves which can mess with valve clearances and compression tests - overly wide ring gaps certainly aren't going to help that either. If you know the engine is worn / weak, it'll never run or tune right! Fix all the problems before even contemplating 'power adders'!

Personally I see no advantage running two vents from the same area into the same vent can - would have more effect if one from cam cover / rocker cover and other from clutch cavity! Also why does the front end look like you've run into a bus in the picture? Just going by headstock and fork angles?

Or Sprocket cover even ! A complete braided hose kit can be sourced here in the UK or do as a lot of peeps do and DIY them - SS fittings recommended, measure twice, cut once, clean and methodical - easy peasy! Its not rocket science to do.

Who, back in the day, would have advised a DJ kit ! The amount of hours required trying to get stock components to work is inversely proportional to just fitting a kit and having it work 95% of the time out of the box! Worn out a few DJ needles - never an emulsion tube! Mind you all the kits I used had both DJ tubes and needles! Yes a DJ kit can be spendy but no worse than 2hrs dyno time which would hardly get you anywhere with stock components IMHO.

If genuine NOS they'll have the advantage of not being heat cycled or oil soaked so better than old 'good' second-hand pieces! Finding them is the problem! Good luck with that as both listed as order / out of stock and the rear one is £350+ so big OUCH!

Sort of depends on use really! If it's a low mileage, been stored in a barn for 30 years then they may be ok but rubber compounds + oil + heat + age = inbuilt obsolescence! Look for hardened and cracked rubbing surfaces and if in doubt, chuck it out! as a broken tensioner guide will make a mess of any engine!

Venhill do list a conversion but its late model GSX-S 2015-2020 etc. and most of these bikes have fairly lt.wt. clutches in the first place - not Manly clutches! As they seem to do a lot with dirt bikes, I guess its a carry over just to avoid snapped cable syndrome!

Not std. Suzuki there isn't but many have McGuiver'd something to achieve hydraulic operation.

Without the chain being tensioned, there is the easy possibility of the chain skipping a tooth - as seems to have happened here!

Not Ward they don't - those are Vortex ! Can't say one thing and mean another when trying to diagnose problems!

The OP did say they were blocked internally - a grub screw in lieu of the jet is the usual method. Yes oil would 'leak' away from the cams via original holes and stud holes but once full they would be pressurised as normal. I do believe the dash 3 hose has a lot to answer for! Its tiny ID won't help - i'd rather use dash 5 or even 6 if PTFE and let the cam bearings form the restriction creating pressure?

Word of caution if you are relying on a repeatable or stable 14psi - external actuators and internal WG's are notorious for overshooting / spiking over required boost figures.

Marks / standards are no longer required to be on exhausts - Acceptable noise is at testers discretion!

As you say, carbs are from a GSXR and their inlet rubbers canted the carbs over a bit so that the bowls were roughly level with road. A leaky / non sealing float valve is the likely cause for the leak as said. As an experiment, try turning all the GSX rubbers 180 degrees as this may get carb angle a bit nearer where they should be?

Start at 120 but you'll probably go smaller - Smaller dia carb means increased air speed through it, so increased airspeed through the venturi means lower pressure = better draw on the jet = it'll be richer than if carb was a 36mm with a 120.

No reason not to use 34's - remember these recommendations are based on racing applications where outright performance is key! If the rubbers are new then they should accommodate some 36's but be prepared for skinned knuckles and use of ratchet straps ! The 34's may make for a better road bike ie good torque and mid range with a little loss at top end which is rarely used anyway!

Not usual, but not unheard of, is debris getting trapped in the pressure relief valve in the sump causing it to stick open. Cold oil gives reasonable pressure but with hotter, more liquid oil, the pressure crashes! I don't think the sump will pull off in frame? so engine out and may be a good idea to check the bottom end shells at same time? Can't think of any other causes if cam feed is off main gallery?

I think you'll be surprised how stiff the shock / spring has to be! I've seen bikes so stiff that they hardly moved doing the seat bump test but on launch, they squatted so much that the tyre rubbed and the chain looked like it had 10 extra links in the lower run! Just think, Brock Davidson was the first guy in the 7's on a 'streetbike' in the 90's, so he has shedloads of experience and by his own admission, it took a year of making hits to get the shock right - that's maybe 5 - 10 passes / day, 3 or 4 times a week ! ! ! Its a long arduous task, so get the engine and clutch how you want them first, then don't touch them as changes there will affect how the bike launches - if you need to concentrate on the shock, you need repeatability from everything else - just IMHO!

Did it cost 12k per kit or 12k total for 10? If the latter, 7.5k is a bloody nice mark-up! But if the former, he shouldn't be in business as if he paid 12k they should be retailing at 17-18k so he's effectively losing 10+k LOL!

Which is the problem as he doesn't, afaik, own the rights to do so !

Forget using std. OEM shocks if it is a 'single purpose bike' A dragbike shock needs a stiffer spring, a decent amount of compression damping and loads of rebound damping . . . . . . the last requirement is where all OEM shocks fail! Just phone Hagon - tell them what you have, what application, weights and arm length etc. and they'll build you a shock that will be 80 - 90% spot on!

And for future reference / info, they are usually referred to as 'cam caps' - at first I thought you were talking about the cam cover LOL!

Ooooh - this may cause a bit of a stink as I know who got the rights to the 'Martek' name / brand when it folded 1st time around ! ! !

Also just noticed this - why ? ? ? It's too thick and not recommended for these engines! More worrying is I can't find a listing anywhere for a Ward kit made for a GSXR!