Gixer1460

From your Bio - you aren't exactly in the coolest part of the world are you ! ! ! You are sailing very close to the edge using a skimmed DOT head (i'm guessing static CR may be about 11.5+ : 1 or more) and I'm unsure of the quality of your petrol as it would be advisable (in the UK at least) to be using 98 / 99 RON fuel. But back to cooling - a head cooler is pretty much a requirement with that climate & engine spec IMO and / or a bigger / more efficient main cooler wouldn't hurt either!

There's yer problem ! ^^^ in Red. CV carbs just do not get on with separate air filters without LOADS of work! If an aftermarket jetting kit is available - DJ or Factory - it may cure it or go back to std. airbox!

Different oil capacities due to different sumps - nothing else!

You'll have to use Bandit wheels with the gsxr cams otherwise should swap ok

Isn't it an EFE pressure switch plate with the oil temp sensor removed? I'm not that up on GSX oil systems but isn't the space behind the filter cover full of unfiltered oil? If so, that set-up is dumping unfiltered oil into the main gallery?

New parts are a lottery regarding availability - s/hand stuff can be had but again a lottery pending the sellers description for 'as new', 'barely used or 'absolutely bollux'd'

Re : The engine, if its been stored 'closed up' ie. plugs in and all orifices plugged it should be as good as the day it was stored! If not then moisture will have gotten in and the rust monster will likely cover any steel not thickly coated in old oil. Popping any of the covers will give a good idea of internal state!

Raises more questions! Requires short reach plugs? If not, then exposed plug threads carbon up and muller the head threads coming out! Lowers compression! And 'kernel' type combustion chambers never seem to help overall combustion from what i've read. Maybe they were just grinding / polishing out some cracks LOL!

Seems a bit harsh but if those are the rules! For me, Endurance should be about finishing and doing whatever it takes to finish - providing safety isn't compromised! Some points is a lot better than no points or do you have a 'discard results x times' rule as well? Bike endurance isn't something I particularly follow - I tend towards Sports Cars hence the question.

Ignore the neutral light - that is sourced / fed from the general loom. I don't have a 600 Blandit loom schematic but the 1200 has the same 4 colours as a GS550 switch and they do the same things + 2 extra. The extra two are Orange / Yellow and Black / White. Black / White is generally an earth with Suzuki's and this wire is shared with other things so is an earth. The Orange / Yellow goes to the ignition module so this is likely the other side of the resistor mentioned above as when key is turned Red is connected to Orange, Brown connected to Grey and Orange / Yellow connects to Black / White.

It wasn't the cost aspect - more the getting the bike mobile again to get back to pits for repairs. Endurance is usually won by none to pretty machines that are still functioning.

Tacho wiring would be in the main loom bundle to clocks ie, not in Ign Switch. Don't know about the 600's but Bland 12's have a resistor in the Ign Switch to prevent hot wiring - maybe these two are the in and out for that?

Cooked how? Can't say i've seen 'cooked' cam bearings! I've seen destroyed journals through oil failure and damage caused through poor oil maintenance / changes. But 'cooked' implies overheated / burnt? So IMO, common - No!

Query - Use of side crash bungs - good idea! But no lever guards - why, as they seem to be the first thing that gets damaged?

Don't doubt it - the DJ kit is doing what it's supposed to do - it will work with stock filters but a bit pointless!

DJ stg 1 kits are designed to work with stock and free flow filters in an airbox so there can't be a huge change. Stg 3 is where the bigger fuel changes occur. Cali bike tuning is a law unto themselves due to the smog bollux added which messes with everything!

LOL - aftermarket doesn't count!

LOL - haven't seen a wet dream RR for about 20 years!

Same as stock or 0.0021 - 0.0025" - go bigger and it'll rattle sooner!

Yes - that is the bit the float NEEDLE seats into . . . . look at the picture - see the countersunk hole, that is the needle seat!

Well, the jet is available, part #26 so it / they are replaceable, although stupidly expensive! Never known a new jet not to seal - the seats must be absolutely fubar'd! As said above, even contemplating using RS / FCR's is waaaay beyond sensible for this application, especially just to solve leaky needles!

The term Cerakote covers a range of products / finishes but generally all are ceramic based so very hard wearing (like modern enamelling) and hi temp resistant - https://www.cerakote.com/cerakote-vs-other-coatings?to=cerakoteVsHighTemp As said there maybe a better coating designed to shed heat rather than retain it - lots of Cerakote applied to exhaust manifolds and turbo pipework to improve performance and reduce close proximity heating / under bonnet heat (in cars obvs). And like enamel it can chip easily - think stone chips?

Most turbo's will pull a 17 front - anything Back gearing - allows a wider range of rears + helps chain on bigger rad front. Oh and wind up your alarm clock - bad RT LOL!

I'd seriously revise that thought! As you say the coating is intended to keep heat in, not radiate it! Also the application temperature may damage the solder joints of the cooler. There may be better suited coatings but your coater may be the best person to ask. Even a powder coat could compromise heat rejection!

I haven't and normally I wouldn't propose them - especially for turbo use, but everyone has a budget and within the cost savings noted there is cash available for skimmed barrels, Blandit barrel flanges can handle a decent skim. I believe using the rods, pokes the pistons out of the block! And considering their origin and s/h cost, their use in a 'performance application' stacks up as they also have OEM long term reliability on their side! God knows how vvv got here !