Gixer1460

I don't believe std 1127 'K' barrels / liners will do to those sizes - way to thin for reliability! Carbs depends on what YOU are prepared to accept or want from them - 36 cv's good powerr and drivability, 38's better power and equal drivability, RS36's better power but less drivability,RS38's even better power and maybe ultimate for road but all flatslides need to be driven correctly with set up to suit. Other carbs are an option but are more race orientated so can work on the road but probably not recommended.

Are you retaining the OEM ECU to drive them? Otherwise can't see the point for including a intake restriction even if open! Just seen Arttu has given better explanation ✓

Oh yes they can ! Use the depth guage bit, caliper end against one side of 1st hole and depth bit to corresponding other side of other hole - easy!

DR9EIX - Iridium std heat range . . . . . DR10EIX - Would be the upgrade . . . . . but they don't make it! IMO the std plug will take a LOT of abuse / heat / boost before causing problems. As an aside, DO NOT use Iridium plugs with nitrous as the thin tip tends to glow like a glowplug leading to detonation issues which with a nitrous engine makes big holes in things! EDIT - Should add - above recommendation was for GSXR / GSF range of engines . . . . sorry I assumed LOL!

Doesn't have to be solely on boost, could be rpm, could be gear etc. subject to an available input & suitable signal? Automation is maybe a good reason as I used to have ign. retard on a bar switch which I completely forgot once = 40deg advance + 10psi boost . . . . . . . silly me And I originally only said 'it could be', not must be

Was it a 'blonde moment'? Surely all turbo control is based around boost? With a std wastegate having, say, a 8lb spring, 8lbs of boost will open the gate. If you want 10lbs, you either change the spring or use a bleed off to bleed off some of the boost from the spring diaphragm so its opening is at a higher boost. Ultimately boost pressure always controls boost - unless you use bottled air / gas pressure for really sophisicated control. If the ecu is monitoring intake air pressure, Aux5 could be set to activate a soli to either increase or decrease that pressure rather than having separate switch?

It (the ecu) just takes over the adjustible mechanical pressure switch role which was the oldskool way of having a selectable two stage boost. I don't say this is the best way but with a limited function ecu and doing it on a budget - its a way. Yes a PWM control of a solienoid gives better resolution against duty cycle but will require a different ecu - but maybe a Megaquirt can do it and is 'relatively' cheap AND can do ignition as well so could definately be advised as an upgrade.

Yes if variable boost required - I was thinking more along the two step type boost control ie. low on spring only, high switch control solenoid to bleed boost for high?

Without all the info it difficult to confirm but couldn't the AUX1 output be used as the 'boost switching source' ? Agreed that it is a very crude solution but also (i'm again guessing here) if that output is a grounding one, it could also be hooked up to the Dyna2000 orange wire to initiate boost retard - again a crude solution!

God knows - that was 20+ years ago so more than likely 4* (if you can remember that?) It certainly wasn't often or intentional, but useful in a head to head race.

36 - 40 is relatively safe although I haven't tried that with 'modern' E5 and E10 fuels! I was running those numbers with a 1186 kit @ 12.5:1 CR that only pinked on one local hill during summer - that same engine with a spacer plate + turbo was used with same timing and leaded fuel . . . . 40 degrees and 10psi boost ! ! !

Looks like its done by 9.5k to me! Turbo's just don't need / want to go high rpm's

He ain't been back for over two years so don't hold your breath waiting for a reply!

Bit wary of this - Toyota have followed this route with millions of car engines in pursuit of improved economy (which it did) only to get thousands of warranty claims for major excessive oil consumption / top & bottom end failures due to low oil at really low mileages. As always 'there is no such thing as a free lunch' & if an OEM can get caught out ! !. Machining of the piston skirts is the basis of the 'slipper' style piston, they are ok for racing but the piston slap noise in a road engine is unacceptable IMO. There are loads of 'secrets' for reducing friction / rotating mass - like slimming down crank counterweights so x sectional area is less and so less windage then add back the weight at the tips using Tungsten slugs. Simple, effective but costly unless racing.

From a 'legal' standpoint E10 has to be 'lower' RON 95 octane, whilst E5 can have lower (or no) ethanol content but 'higher' RON 98/99 octane. I'm sure if you looked you could still find E5, 95 octane. But as most of the bikes we love were developed to run on really low octane fuels (90 ish), unless the timing curves are adjusted to suit a higher octane need / requirement (higher CR, turbo or nitrous use) there is little performance benefit from using higher octane fuels. I've seen lots of reports that engine runs smoother, less vibes, better fuel mileage - these are mostly subjective and not proven. In fact E10 gives a performance hit in that the fuel's energy content is less due to the increased % of alcohol, so you need to use more / richer mixture for the same power! Also a higher octane fuel used, burns slower so if the timing remains unaltered it will not achieve peak cylinder pressure till after the optimal point - less power is result. Funny how the Government don't publish that fact when promoting how 'green' this new fuel is - but you have to use approx 5% more to travel same distance and so buy more which of course means more fuel duty and VAT for the coffers - Cynical moi? No way!

And although 'ballpark', don't trust the timing marks for accuracy! Only way to reliably check is with degree wheel and / or timing light (although with a GSXR, that is a bloody messy operation!) I've never found any advantage of using anything other than curve #1 and timing total set anything between 36 - 40 degrees. If you have the 2000i version you could try putting a timing 'bump' in the mid-range / cruise area of 40 - 45 degrees then back off to around 36 deg for WOT. This is a profile often used with mapped ignitions to improve the burn around peak torque.

The two responders here are a damn sight brighter and cleverer in respect of this stuff and understand the numbers - something that has defeated me, so i'm a 'try it and see' type for development LOL! If I do another build, I will deffo use a BB type core, Maybe Garrett 28R or 30R based - its the housings and wheels where the secret sauce is hidden so listen to the two guys above!

The rust alone shows the water attraction problem! I'll be using ESSO E5 which they declare as ethanol free.

The use of electric vacuum pumps on ProStock bikes used to be popular on the 4 cylinder engines and the use of PCV valves in exhaust headers just before the megaphone was also a thing 'back in the day' - all to get less 'windage' in the crankcases.

It was your terminology that was causing confusion - why call the 'rotor' a cube? It replaces the std suzuki rotor, its circular and nothing like a 'cube'! BTW - its the limit tabs on the ATU that restrict the bob weights movement and the springs the rate at which they move. I can't see any advantage 'crushing' the rotor slots unless stopping ANY movement is what you want to do? I'm fully aware of how mechanical advance works but advancing base timing on (for example) a high comp engine will result in piss poor starting characteristics if you can get it to spin over at all! - GS's and GSX's in particular can break starter clutches in high CR engines. You need ALL the timing to be right and is why Digital timing gives better power and responsiveness throughout the power band as it can give spark at right time for load, rpm & current fuel.

You'll have to explain that better as it makes no sense to me!

Whilst the 'S' backplates do have larger slots, this only adjusts the base timing as an 'S' alone is a fixed timing device UNLESS paired with the std. ATU. I've never known anyone change the springs, bob weights or movement stops on these to achieve different rates of, or degrees of timing. Of course a dragbike with offboard starting can start with fixed timing at, say, 30 degrees BTDC but that would be a PITA for a road bike starter. Alternatively use the 'S' with a Schnitz box to control all the timing functions.

ANY decent boring place will bore the hole to suit the piston and number / mark them to ensure the correct piston stays with the correct hole! And whilst I know it happens, I don't agreed with using s/hand rings on s/hand pistons in fresh bored barrels as you've no control over ring end gaps unless they are too tight to start with - receipe for smokey engine. Its not a biggie but worth consideration IMO.

True - you've effectively taken 6 teeth off the rear which is a big change without other mods!

Shouldn't make any difference with that!