Suzukian

Thank You all very much. She's my little sister, always dear to me. And yes, she has had to ultimate upgrade!!.

I hope you guys will forgive me for this. My sister had been very ill. The doctor's said the medicine had stopped working and she needed a Heart and Lung transplant. We prayed much on this, she was put on top of the list, and the first two times, she was almost opened up, surgically prepared, but the lungs failed. On the third attempt, she was called in, this time stressed beyond all belief, she went in. Everything worked out 100%!!! My sister, 9 days following the surgery, walked 1 mile, unassisted, and has been waling a mile a day, every day, with her newly implanted donor lungs. She told me she felt fantastic. As a family, well feel blessed. The young girl who passed, and checked that box that allowed her Lungs and Heart to be harvested, well, I just don't know the words. I never will know this donor of her family, but in their time of grief, their daughters heart and lungs live on in one of the beautiful, spirit filled people you could ever meet. I wish I could tell the donor family how thankful our family is, but that isn't allows. This young lady checked the box, and allowed someone else to live. I just find this whole experience hard to fathom. My sister feels ever minute she has is a gift, and is doing everything so she can have a full life, for the time she has left. This has occupied my time for the last few months. I hope this post doesn't violate any forum rules. I ask for nothing. I just wanted to share some wonderful news.

Bridgestone Battleax. That's what I have on mine, front and rear. I just got a front one this week. They aren't the easiest tire to find. They work welll though, grab when warmed up, and have a good life to them.

I own a 1983 GS750ESD (in the U.S. that's what they were called) You fuse box is not in the stock position. That looks like a Regulator/Rectifier mounted where the tool box used to go. There should be 3 wires coming from the stator, and two=/- going to the battery, if it was modified the way most people to get away from the horrid design the bikes came with. Service Manuals are easy to find in .pdf online if you Google for them. Without a wiring diagram, you will be going in circles.

Turn it over with the spark plugs out, and do it by hand. so you can feel if anything has broken inside. This will minimize any damage and possibly prevent catastrophic damage. You can check the spark with all the plugs out, but do it by hand off, once you determine the engine is turning over smoothly, then you can turn it over with the starter, you may have dropped a coil. You will have to take off one of the crankshaft covers, the right side, sitting on the bike, has the electronics, so you won't have oil coming out. Check to make sure.

You might want to wrap something around the stud to not mar/scratch it's surface.

I agree. They're shoulder bolts anyways. They don't take much torque to hold them in place. I think Suzuki should have used a "Form Thread" instead of a conventional one in that part of the bike. I know what to do if I have a failure though, onto the milling table, a little Lathe work, and I'll have a new piece ready go into the cam cover.

I disappeared for a while. Got a little ill. All is fine now. I haven't forgotten you guys. I found a brand new Bridgestone 16" Battleax tire for my Suzuki so that gives me time before I switch over the front end. I plan to build the front end off the bike, with my Son and Godson, to teach them something, then do the swap, probably in the Fall. I have a bundle of Alum-Aloy, and ran into a problem when doing a Heli-Coil on the top cover gasket hold down boss. It cracked when tapping it. I took the valve cover back off. I had to remove the camshaft hold down backet on the intake number two cylinder, and used Alum-Aloy to build up the area. I had managed to put the Heli-Coil in there, and for good measure, I threaded the shoulder bolt in too. If this didn't work, I would have had to machine out the old piece on my milling machine, press in a new Boss, and then mill to size. Luckily, everything worked and bolted back down tightly. Since that piece is line bored when the bike is made, finding another one wouldn't work, as the odds of it fitting would be slim. The mounting holes could be widened, or slotted, depending of how, and in what direction it was off it, but they are not to be had anyways. So I fixed what I had, and I lucked out All the valve cover screws are now Heli-Coiled. I think they were originally made of Play Dough. Working on the other bike I own (ZZR1200) in parallel is tough when you find that you have turned into an old fart. :)

Got the rims back. Hand then Glass Bead Blasted. They have that MV Augusta raw look to them. I'll have to polish where the wheel beads seal up. I'm very tempted to leave them raw instead of polishing them, with a coat of very flat clean, or Satin, and leave it like that. Too much cost to Powder coat them. I will polish the wheel seal bead areas and leave the rims with the sand blasted look. I need it to get a little warmer to do the Alumaloy fix, then I'll start looking for bearings.

The Alumiweld came in only 2 days!! The rims should be done glass bead blasting by the end of the week. This guy charges really good prices, so he's always backed up.

From what I can understand it does take Powder Coating. The temperature to make the rod melt is really high, but not high enough to take the heat treating away or melt aluminum. It is heated with propane. Powder Coating doesn't go up that high in temperature. One time I milled a piece to see if I could see the line. I could not. Their is an exchange of electrons, which is why this stuff works so well, and is bonded, not stuck or considered glued to the part. The P.S.I. is ridiculous. I tried to chisel a piece off and dented the front of the chisel. It cut into the Alumiweld, but did not pop it off, or make it move.

I just got hit with Identity theft, but the bank caught it. They are giving me a new Credit Card, and covering the $45 dollars that someone in the u.J. tried to charge in jewelery. This is normal procedure to see if a card is monitored, before they try and take a big chunk on charge. Mine are. That aside, I am having the two rims I ordered glass bead blasted to get off the horrific blue paint that is on them. There are some scrapes on the rims, and a little "V" notch on the edge of the rim, all cosmetic stuff.. None of this stuff is by the wheels sealing part, and would not affect how the tires seals, however, I figure while I have it apart, I'll try and fix it. I have ordered a 3 lb. bundle of Alum-aloy as they will not sell less, for around $45 bucks. The stuff goes on by you heating the rim, and then touching the rod to the rim, which will melt the rod, when the rim is hot enough. This is done with propane, so the rim doesn't get hot enough to damage it.I will build up little Brass dams on each side to hold the puddle, and when the flame is removed, it solidifies rather quickly. As the rim is sill really hot, I have to wait till it cools down before I can file, and polish it to match the edge of the rim. I just wondered if anyone though it would be worth posting pictures of the procedure. If anyone thinks so, I will post them. Thank You. I don't work for this company of sell their stuff, I've just had incredible results with it. https://www.alumiweld.com/

I think I got altitude sickness by flying at 15K feet with no oxygen. If people are going to be nasty, then have the thick skin to take the replies. I shall struggle to maintain a proper altitude, but will always chop people down a notch that are being undeservedly disrespectful. Not a high horse. Just who I am. I do also agree about the electronic speedos, but the GPS speedos don't require any of that, and come inn all shapes and sizes, from super futuristic, to nostalgic/vintage. ;).

If you had a chip in there calculating the speed of the front sprocket and comparing it with the speed of the rear wheel, then a unit on the front sprocket would be able to calculate the speed. If you think you are going to take and mount something on the front sprocket and that will automatically match the rear wheel, with no information or means of calculating such information, you have no knowledge of electronic circuitry, chipss, etc.. How could the front sprocket know every bike made and their ratios. The concept is wrong from the outset. Mounting the drive on the rear wheel would be the best way to go in this case, or getting a front rim that has a speedo drive. Gixer1460 That cock in your mouth is making you mean.