Gixer1460

Ooooh you're going to get some flak for asking that !

I was told the gear swap was from the GS750/550 not the GSX variant? The GSX750ET definately had a different oil supply as oil pressure was considerably greater as required for the shell bearings in the mains and rods. The gears when used in the 1100's never produce anything like the pressure got in the 750ET for some strange reason even though I think the pumps are the same! With the uprated gears in a 1100/1150 you nearly double the std. pressure to a 'huge' max of about 30psi LOL!

Pretty unlikely and if it was possible the drag racers would be making a big thing about it. The Busa and GSX14 cases are comparitively smaller than the GSXR ones and it only needs a mill or two difference between shaft centres and the swap comes to a screaming halt!

Combination of everything being nearly f**ked = it's totally f"*ked!

Can't see why? Tappet cams use same cam bearings, caps and sprockets with M head / cams having an additional bearing each that has no lateral locating function, so the two should function identically !

Get the mismatch in pipe lengths right and they may work like a 'big bang' engine as far as the turbo is concerned . . . . . . . maybe?

No OEM cases come with numbers - it was so dealers could restamp the original numbers when replacing cases! Obviously its well open for abuse ie. clone cases but there you go. Seriously a cracked engine mount is a minor fault that can be welded to 'good as new' - there have been cases on here that have massive holes in them that have been repaired. It would be a shame to replace the gearbox and lower case and then knock out the main crank bearings as they weren't matching!

True but you still can't throw some random bottom case on there!

That rpm is bang on Needle territory and if you are max rich its going to need different profile - hence why DJ kits came into existance!

This . . . Is about right out of the packaging and correct for use. Pouring more oil on them is couter productive, less air flow and richer running! I've run them virtually black with no difference in air flow or AFR on a wideband. K&N oil is good to use on foam filters also!

Probably! Spare atu's shouldn't be to rare.

So having the carbs right behind a engine producing copious quantities of heat is ok? Any 'heat' from a breather is negligiable and makes f**k all difference!

A duff RR can't harm a new battery unless it is either over or under charging! You will not be able to determine either scenario without a running engine - 5 minutes will suffice and for that you'll need a battery! It is more than likely the RR is dead and not outputting any meaninful voltage in which case you'll need one of them as well! Avoid Chinese Eblag RR's ! ! ! They are cheap for a reason ! I note also the old Suzuki wiring of one alternator leg to the light switch circuit ! ! ! This is best modified to run all 3 alt outputs to the battery and then run the lights from the fusebox, Ignition switched side. This is a better and more reliable way of charging the battery / running the lights / saving the RR cooking itself!

Quote from APE webpage (later Blandit included for info) :

Good until you get a backfire in the exhaust as the breather is full of volatile gases which could make a mess of the crankcases - you need to add a PCV to prevent this.

Think about what you are proposing! If you leave the cams in they will not be rotating. At any point one or two valves will be opening / off their seats / closing. To feed the chain in you MUST rotate the crankshaft. Doing so, risks driving the pistons into open valves and bending them! Still want to leave the cams insitu?

No.

Most engines using Alcohol use injection either mechanical or electronic - basically as easier to drain and / or revert to petrol to run through before shut down. Not doing so will corrode or fur up everything its touched - total PITA. I can't imagine a std. Blandit carb lasting long with an organic super solvent flowing through it! Whilst you are only doing a 1/4 mile, I see no oil cooler fitted to an oil cooled engine - no wonder its getting hot! Try fitting one and you may avoid most of the problem! Oh and you'll probably have to up the boost to make the best of using methanol as compared to petrol, its fairly power poor so not directly comparible.

As we are mainly UK / European based and both the 'Vulcan' or V&H ignitions were neither popular or widely used, the info you seek will be thin on the ground (here at least). If its that important . . . . . . . . . . . . why aren't you asking V&H themselves?

They aren't 'from' anything! They are aftermarket upgrade carbs primarily intended for race applications but widely adopted for road use. They are modular and can be adapted to fit multiple applications as can their brothers 34, 38 and 40mm. Yes they can be fitted to a Blandit and at a guess you might pick up 5 or 6hp but do some more tuning and 10hp could be possible and they do look cool but need a whole different riding style for their operation!

^ ^ ^ - I thought it, He wrote it LOL!

Double fiddly with the Hyvo chain - I've done rivets with a normal chain, not sure about a hyvo!

Is that a statement or a question? If the latter, all the diagnostics are as above!

To be honest I never looked at vid till this comment and that set up isn't really the best for accurate measurement as A) its too far from the exhaust ports and B) mounting the sensor like that always a large amount of 'uncontaminated fresh air' into the pipe and around the sensor. This is why they are usually buried after the manifold or collectors, high up in the system. A Lambda of 0.90 - 0.91 isn't too bad and translates to between 13.23 - 13.38 but if its being skewed by fresh air it could be somewhat richer! The above point is always an issue with turbo's that use dump pipes and not a full system!

Usual cause is an intake air leak - the larger / richer idle jets would support this theory