Gixer1460

Why 'kawazuki' ? If its a aftermarket / DIY frame / chassis it can't be a 'kawa' can it?

Fundamental tappet / valve clearance gap adjustment is always made to have the recommended gap located between point of minimum lift on the cam which conversely occurs when its paired cylinder is at maximum valve lift. Just remembering that - its difficult to get wrong!

Well - a fixed advancer isn't a good idea for starting a High Comp motor. You could try switching the ign. independently of the cranking so that engine will crank with ign off and once its spinning light the sparks. Or as before use 24v starting!

Sprocket nut is a good one if chain is present - not impossible without just a pain! Inlets are obtainable new but a bit spendy. Long & low temp cooking in oil / glycerin can sometimes bring them back to life. Lots of penetrating fluid over all the mount bolts / nuts / studs - if it has a fastener - then drench it!

But it will stop the corrosion taking hold.

The sumps are deffo different - GSXR 4-2-2 exhaust, Blandit 4-1 ............... collectors around or under sump. Don't forget pick-ups to match sump.

^^^ as above and if is definitely ONLY #1 then it will usually be fuel related! Sorry to be negative but that's the way of the world !

If we are talking about the same thing - there should be little or no discernible play on the primary gear which is mounted on the back plate and via rivets to the basket. There may be a little play via the shock damper springs although this should be minimised to prevent grabby operation and chatter.

Dunno where that figure came from but mine (gsxr 1100L - 59mm) ran to well over 200+hp with no problems whatsoever. And I know of a std. but looked after Bandit crank that used to deal with 300+hp worth of nitrous power. I think excessive rpm's together with throttle on / throttle off, repeat, repeat repeat doesn't help. Thousands of these cranks have been raced - track and drag and breakages are thankfully fairly rare - rods are more vulnerable IMO. Yoshimura might have only used (58mm) to stay within class capacity limits?

I used GSXR400 USD's on my drag Katana - they were shorter by a bit and even shorter when strapped!

Fook me - they're chunky!

IMO - if there is no drawbacks to oiling the filter (ie they recommend it subject to use - strange as dust can occur any where anytime?) they why not just oil it anyway? Obviously they won't as it maybe saves 5p in oil but average Joe - it's not a cost i'd worry about?

Nice project - my crank was £1800 15 odd years ago - no CNC all manual turning and milling. A set of billet cases........ maybe £5000 - maybe triple that! What size pistons are you considering 81mm? Lot of dosh for just 1400cc!

Made a drawing and reduced a fackin' large / heavy bit of EN40B to a smaller expensive bit of EN40B.

Easy when you know how Personally I got rid of the damn thing when I did a re-wire!

Probably a whole different set of CNC billet crankcases! Mine has a +5mm stroke and the cases needed some grinding to give the rods space

Did you try re-setting it? You press the tit - it will pop again if the fault still exists!

An un-oiled foam filter will just stop rocks etc but sand / dust will pass through as the material is open celled polyurethane - there will be a direct (although convoluted) path from outside to inside. @Arnout - worrying about intake pulses will potentially be a fruitless / pointless exercise IMO especially for a road bike. Pulse reflections will occur at most changes of area or edges so potentially you have multitude reflections from inlet manifold, throttle butterflies, carb mouth, ram pipe mouth, air filter and probably a few more so a complete jumble. Generally most benefit occurs when engine operates in a constant relatively narrow rev range with minimal intake tract variations / constant taper from intake to valve. Total inlet tract length is widely know to offer best results especially to fill in torque deficiency holes - usually longer picks up torque and can get to daft lengths without loss of top end HP - see http://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/emr-adj-length-intake/ - its an interesting read.

If you can feel any step / ridge - then yes its Fubar'd

77 - 85 - 77 is my understanding.

I'd be very surprised that any K&N would suffer an airflow deficiency! I've used them black with dirt and muck on the outside and inside you could still make out the red oil'd fabric. My turbo had a tiny oval cone filter that wasn't apparently restricting 1460cc on WOT - not saying bigger is not better, but maybe un-necessary?

I think the OP is looking at bottom dims ie. 54 OR 56? The answers my son, are all in the matrix LOL! - basically GSXR1100 L - N, some 750's and GSXR 1000's K1 - K7 and a couple of 750's. There are bound to be other manufacturers but unless you've access to a breakers to measure every type of leg its almost easier to keep legs and trees together and adapt the spindle?

Which implies the pistons are taller in the 1052? And so if used with a +1mm stroke they'll pop out the top of the block. Can't use the 1127 pistons unless you over bore the barrels hence matching barrels to crank.

Haven't the 1127's got 1mm longer stroke..............so you'll need the barrels as well. Clutch has to match the crank as well.

Won't make any difference - it's a cylinder with a set bore size but adjustable lever ratio. The bore dictates the pressure and the lever ratio dictates the feel! Crap brakes won't get any better with a fancy master but they may if the master (however it is operated) is correctly sized!