Gixer1460

Query - are you bracket racing ie. 10.5 break out or ET dial in racing - different animals and different approaches? I actually believe that ET Dial In, Heads up racing is the hardest class to do well in - good luck!

Actually 29.5 degrees - see attached map.

Difficult to suggest figures but yours are about where mine ended up - but mine runs to 2 bar boost, is injected and has compensations so not a direct comparison - you could add 1 deg to whole map from 3000 / 150kpa up if you know fuelling is good.

Very safe i'd say! Does the ecu that you use have additional compensation maps for IAT and CT - these can be of more assistance by allowing a more 'generous' main map and then trimming the extremes at elevated temps.

'Spose no chain is endless until it's joined LOL!

You guys aren't looking at the application! It seems to me an ET bike needs to leave reliably and quick enough to get sufficient lead advantage to be able to back off to not break out and still finish first? A turbo is all back half rush so playing catch up - may cross the line first but lose on a break-out!

Any chain will wear through use - nothing can stop that. But resistance to stretch or deformation is the prerequisite for a HD chain - and a Hyvo chain qualifies.

Nitrous engines are incredibly detonation prone, they build heat extremely quickly and pound the hell out of bearings. Turbos are big softies in comparison!

Std rods are critical after 250hp in a Nitrous motor, and pushing the limit around 300hp in a turbo - that's with a non det. prone tune. Busa rods may be a little stronger but Carillo's (or any H beam rod) are sooooo much more resilient, it pays to use them rather than find the limits with lesser items. If it was me - H beam rods anytime over 240-250+ hp! Build a bullet proof bottom end and you can fit ANYTHING to the top end!

And oil delivery failure probably killed the rest! Falicon's are particularly susceptible to this from what i've seen!

Used Tsubaki and DID - std and HD and couldn't tell the difference - only broke a chain once and that was a std, and probably at 'end of life' anyway! Personally unless going mega on cams and rpm's i'd stick with std from either of the above. If you've got a Blandit crank to use, then the Hyvo chain is stronger!

How have you set up the ign. - see you are using a Dyna S - best way is with a timing light, easy with GS & GSX as its oil dry that end! Sounds likely too advanced if its bouncing off compression.

That's about as lame an excuse as a child could have dreamed up! Force them to fit a diaper then - no more problem!

Is that the variable vane type? Good idea in a car but overly complicated for a bike IMO

Don't know why - its non combustible outside a cylinder!

Actually if you read the back to back tests of straight water v's %'s of water / alcohol, straight water wins out allowing more boost with less retard required. You'd think adding the alcohol would add power but I guess its evaporation point is so much lower that it adds a degree of cooling then just becomes a gas offering no further benefit? What I'd like to try is a water / alcohol mist system over the front of an intercooler - that should really drag heat out of the system, but needs to be moving! - virtually pointless on a dyno without 100+mph air fans LOL!

Funny - i've never heard of their popularity with NOS guys. Turbo yes - known for its intercooling effect on the air temp but in a NOS motor by the time the temps are excessive the water would have been well gone. Rolls Royce used it to good effect with the supercharged Merlin engine - but that had intercooling and 130 octane fuel - all the tricks, water was the top up extra! Personally I believe it's a bit of a band-aid as it a) takes up volume that could be fuel and b) it doesn't burn so is taking up space........but that's just me I guess LOL!

LOL - 1371cc with RS flatties and Squeeze isn't exactly a mildly hopped up Blandit!

38mm carbs have same inlet OD whether RS or BST so both will fit 38mm rubbers. They will easily go into 40mm rubbers (obvs) just need more clamping or stretch a bit of bicycle inner tube over the inlet OD to take up the gap a bit!

May be of assistance with OEM systems but aftermarket ECU's can reset the TPS within software - it resets rest and WOT positions. Remember the TPS is effectively only checking the body it is mounted to, so physical butterfly balance across the rack is vital.

So you are essentially looking for stock Suzuki pistons ? Oil or water cooled, 600, 750 or 1100? Must be thousands lying around - i've got a couple of sets (GSXR 1100K) but can't say what condition they are in - probably need rings!

Wonder if the 'engineer' doing the drilling said ' oh bollocks' when the drill chuck hit the exhaust port.............and did he fetch out all the drill shavings - Hmmm what do you think!

I think we all should just agree to disagree and do whatever the hell we want to do! Please note that 'I' have never claimed they are good or bad, just that I have them fitted and that they have done no damage to my motor. If you do not want to fit them - don't and leave it at that!

Consider this ...... All of the oil cooled family and most of the air cooled ones have crankcase fitted restriction jets fitted - pressure before probably 80 psi, after maybe 30 - 40psi. This is all a plain bearing requires to work properly. Due to this restriction and the 'up the stud' transfer method, i'd guess it would take a matter of seconds for oil to arrive at the cams - they rely on surface film of oil to prevent / minimise metal to metal contact. Now, 4 psi pressure has been quoted in the cooling circuit which as it is independent of the 'pressure circuit' flows unrestricted and reaches the head far quicker - I believe its pressure to be higher, volume certainly is, which when restricted by the cooling jets over the combustion chambers must increase its local pressure by an amount? So there may be no significant effect, but any oil that gets to my cams a) quickly and b) with some pressure behind it, is ok by me! And if you are curious, I have 85mm bores and a +5mm stroke crank and still run oil up the studs - secrets, secrets!

Nothing hidden - all was visible for all to see! Nothing bling, and nothing there that didn't serve a purpose! It's not a competition bike - if you read the statement correctly - its a STREET BIKE ie. MOT'd, Tax'd and Tested - when i'm bothered! And the last statement proves you don't know it and that it is still running without any replacement parts although it is currently not in max. output configuration!