Duckndive

I Put K6 front & rear ends in one ..doubt there's much difference http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php?/topic/1112-another-efe/&page=1

Lorcan recalls a different version "ask Loopy"

Wrong tap knob................

Happened to drop on a Uprated K5 shock on ebog....done by Ktech to accommodate a rather large track day bod..... So fitted that to the turbo bike and the stock one to the latest project ..... Next job adjustable dog bones and RWYB

Right then curiosity got the better after I read the article mentioned ..... So I chucked a GS 1000 box in a set of cases ........and yes the basket don't go straight in.... But TBH 1/2 hr. with a grinder would have it in as its the web on the cases that's stopping it...in fact if you was to grind the case where "the cover bolt is on right of pic" it would need about 3 - 4mm off the basket.....or massage the web on the cases..."that,s what I did on me EFE cases to make it easier to get me slider hat off" if ya man took 6mm of the basket and then the same off the face of the hub "as that what it looks like in his article" then his hub is going to be loads weaker... ANy ways as they say a pic is better than a load of drivel so make your own minds up............. PS its not rocket science to work out the dims as you hardy have to keep taking it apart all the time.....but then that would not make column inches would it ..

Remember the stanchion sticks out the top yoke for the handlebar to mount on ..

fibres defiantly do... I think you need to turn to O/D off the steels down a few mm...

I,ve got these

What PSI boost was you running ?

Looks like I used the bottom plates ... So Will take a pic off what I found ....

ET basket is Solid ...I may have one .....will have to check

You would need an ET basket and Hub....IIRC Primary gear has 87T same as 2v motor.....

It's not that hard,,,they use the same plates and gearbox shaft is same length and spline...swopping the gear is hardly the most challenging of jobs for a decent machine / fab shop

Ok is the ET stem not longer ?

B12 uses an odd ball stem.....most fit the ET stem into blandit yoke

I think I have a full set off plates .."will look at the weekend"

What frame do you want to fit it into .?

Cams are completely different.......... GSX clutch has extra plates ......so you need basket and hub.......I think they put the GSX basket on the GS gear.......Garry Hurd or Roger Upperton will know 100%

The late ones with black engine are my fave ,,,fancy doing a draw thou with modern suspenders. But need to finish others first

Lot off drag bikes in the USA use this set up..........including a 6 sec air cooled beast

Do you mean a set up like this ?

You can set a Hayes up various ways ....slider , throw away lock-up ...or normal "ish" lock up....... I agree not ideal for the road but as a normal "ish" lock-up it will "does" work.......

You don't have to pull the top end off to swap the crank.....splitting the cases to do the bottom end is a days work........ Can I ask why you opted for the Hays Convertible Clutch ?

Well the GSXR1100F was more of a lower power budget tourer style bike hence the helical gears and only 34mm carbs ...as opposed to the GSXR 1100 K , L and on which were sports bikes 36MM 38MM and later 40MM carbs all having straight cuts ......the B12 got straight cuts by virtue of being a K ,L motor with more cc but less punch in the cam dept.. If it helps I have a B12 crank that needs a regrind on one BE journal and I,m sure I have the matching clutch basket.... Big Power well 300 is a big hope on helical's IMHO ..... I put Straight cuts in my poxey 200 BHP air cooled motor

Big Power & Helical Gears not play together very well as it tends to push / send the clutch basket out the case's to change to straight cuts you need either a GSXR Crank and Clutch Basket or Blandit Crank & Basket.....