coombehouse

He's not wrong. At idle, the engine isn't running on the main jet or the needle. It's running on the idle jets (hence the name) & the mixture screws.

Without changing the engine there is little you can do at a reasonable cost. What you have done already may or may not have increased the power or just moved it around & made it sound louder.

If you Google gearing commander, it provides all you need to know. As well as changing sprocket sizes, it also allows the input of different wheel & tyre combinations & shows the difference to standard.

That's the same drive I mentioned earlier. It's from a vfr400 or rc36 vfr750. I've just bought one from Eblag for £20 to see what it's about.

The link is not available to UK

The original poster has gsxr1000 forks & wheels already. I guess he won't want the added expense of buying a 1200 bandit wheel & discs & the possible associated hassle of making the brakes line up, different spindle diameter etc. Just a guess though. Perhaps he will comment

Been doing a bit of thinking on this. I wonder if a gearbox driven vfr750 rc36 drive with one of those km into mph adapters for a mechanical Speedo would slow the thing down enough to be accurate. I might have to try & see

The gear the bike in does not affect the Speedo gearing. This is mentioned above. Your Yamaha can't work like that.

I considered using a late vfr750 Speedo drive as that runs from the gearbox shaft. Finding the ratio has proved difficult though.

Finding a speedo drive which could take a large diameter rear wheel spindle could be a challenge though. Any ideas?

I've had a similar problem & not found a solution. I did wonder if it was possible to take a drive from the front sprocket but I never went any further. Perhaps you'll have better luck in finding a solution.

Just turn the motor over until the cam follower sits on the base circle of the cam lobe. You don't need to look at any timing marks or anything, just do them one at a time. The other tip is to use 2 sets of feeler gauges, put one in the side you aren't adjusting while you set the other. Then leave the gauge in that one & go back to the first one & set the correct clearance. It seems to make for more consistent adjustment. Not my idea though, I stole it from somewhere years ago.

We will get banned mentioning oil though. Best leave it there

I've run all sorts of oil over the years, car oil, mineral, semi & fully synthetic. Never seemed to make any difference at all to the clutch on any bike I've owned.

I had an issue for many years with clutch slip (like 30 years on & off!) I finally found the problem last year when replacing the plates yet again. I noticed looking through the drilled holes in the pressure plate ( these were an addition on later engines) that there was very little clearance before the pressure plate bottomed out on the inner basket, thereby preventing the springs doing their bit. I messed about with some slightly thicker plates to increase the clutch stack height & problem solved. I should have spotted it years ago but I have no idea why it happened in the first place. Tolerance buildup maybe, who knows but it's worth having a really good look & measuring everything.