Duckndive

My unmodified 1100K head is 28cc...............

Stroke is determined by the crank not the length of the con rod ....

No EF has more teeth on gear ...

RF900 "S T V W" models (1994-1998) have a 5 bolt coil spring clutch ...

Odd but I use a length of aluminium box and drop a string line's down to check centre But a string line from the headstock to the centre of the frame at the rear works.....you should then be able to check if the swinger and then the wheel is in the right place.. I would use the centre of top dog bone pivot as a ref point for the arm given the pivot may have been hacked and see what you need to do ....

Ok slingshot & bandit arms are about the same internal dim where the wheel goes ..245mm ish.... on an EFE with a bandit or slingshot arm the chain is very close to the frame "and the foot peg bolts" and its usual to use a 530 chain with a 3/8th or 5/8th offset front sprocket... looking at your pics again "and what I used in mine".. your chain side spacer looks about the same and the bottom " slingshot / bandit " hanger in lower pic is what used...... So regardless of it being in the middle or not Does the wheel fit in the arm with those ?

Odds are any bike with a dodgy fuel tap / carb will leak fuel into No 1 if on side stand for any length of time

If its a slingshot 5.5 or 4.5 wheel it should sit central in the slingshot arm "with the right spacers" blandit wheel is same as slingy one I,m sure you sure the swinger is central in the frame ? pics are good

And Back in the Room............. All back together and fired up...minor clutch adjustment aside all ok Ya got to luv the cometic case gaskets re-used with no leaks. Will try and get it back down the strip before year end to test it out...

Power Pour works well .....

info here http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/218

All the Oil boiler locks ups are the same unit.....BUT they use "need" an adaptor to fit on Diaphragm clutch..... Personally I would do a coil spring conversion on a diaphragm clutch if I was going to fit a lock up......

Picked up new sticker gasket ... then after a complete freak cluster #uc# ended up pulling the motor out and splitting cases to retrieve it ... So after the unscheduled trip onto the bench...The motor is now 3/4 back together and back in the frame...needing just the clutch and wizzy bang system refitting...

You Know me so well............. Unfortunately Head Gasket was wrong size so picking up correct one tomorrow.......

All Good stuff but what is the PCD of the 6 bolts in the GSXR starter clutch / rotor ?

yes ..but not later gsxr 1000s etc

I don't think so .. Have you actually worked out what the C/R is with the parts you are using ? What is your target C/R ....

Looking Good Jim.............

And the answer In my case is 8:6 to 1.............. So in the morning its out with the Hammer & Nails and back together its going..............

Ok curiosity got the better of me so in true Archimedes Fashion got the bike up at stupid angle and measured the Bus Pistons recess.... Drum Roll Bish Bash Bosh Ta Daaaaaaaaaa and its,...................................8cc .. So can do some proper "Real World" sums now..............

Simply pointing out that you should not listen to hearsay "or I was told"............ Yes they Do lower the C/R ...but you will need to Do the sums for the parts that you are using in your application.....to find your C/R ... But there is no mileage in removing material from the block that's for sure....

if you ignore the ref to a dot head the info here is relevant http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php?/topic/885-gsxr1300-pistions-and-750-dot-head/&page=1

Measured the head again and it ,s 28cc £40 worth of Suzuki O-rings arrived today so will nail it back on over the weekend...............

Or use 1100k yokes ...................