Duckndive

Will be on road when I get it MOTED.....John.....your NWS arm is still in my garage ....

So for a T3 snail fuelling a busa pistoned stock studded 1100k lump it made ...............230BHP & 110nm Torque... Chart to follow when I get it........... Chart from 1st pull 220 ish

I just cut the side stand and added a 20mm piece of round bar welded up and repainted it.

Van loaded ........

They would be hard work ......

GS thou basket has open slots.....

Clever stuff there ........ Most of the old draw thru,s used a Rajay which did not need massive oil pressure ...I,ve used a Garret T3 on a Draw thru without any problems just used 750 oil pump gears .... I think for a blow thru there are more options with turbos that use ball bearings and need less pressure ..... But an Adult should be along soon to give a better answer ...

Ok cool before lunch time then please

Did you get round to a rough schedule Tom ?

DIY stick block in the oven for 30 mins the liners will drop out.... Well the block will drop off the liners actually

Yes to much retard on ignition will cause excess heat very quickly

There was a similar topic on face ache recently rupperton mentioned poss coil bind with stock springs and G4 cams ....

Well I guess I,ll find out on the 31st at dyno..............

Dam quick them 1000cc things with a sniff of gas..But don't sound as good as a draw thru .... Its quite a trick "read not cheap" motor carrilos, overbore and HC slugs, Yoshi cams, Gen 2 clutch.. makes 200 bhp N/A then a 45 shot...goes mid 8,s Alarm Clock on Order.................

Managed to get to RWYB sat morning So 1st Run since Bulldog dint go to well clutch dragging so struggled to stage and Red lit so no time ... Managed to get clutch to function so Run 2 was an improvement in the fact that i manged to hold it in stage but crap 60ft and some clutch slip only managed a 9:90.... dint bother to reload as the rain was on its way....Still at least blew the cobwebs and dust off it.... Video of 2nd Run Here https://youtu.be/GECCzvkAo_A

Yeap carb or brake cleaner works ..then dry and leave in mineral oil overnight . I have only ever used cheapest Mineral oil I can find......never had any issues .....

yes you can swop them .....just check chain alignment .....

Nice I prefer the lines of the 750 to the thou..... all you need is to chuck a thou motor in now.....

Well If you have the FCRs then stick them on you have nothing to lose .....

FCRs are great carbs but can be expensive to re-jet and set up....they also drink fuel and need a tanker in tow..... Ohh and if they are spaced for a water boiler "as most the 2nd hand sets tend to be" again expensive to re-space.... I would go for the RS38s on a road bike ......but the 40s may give a little more at the expense of more fuel

Valve clearance should be ...0.08 -0.13mm with engine cold..... If you have a Haynes then the method is in there .............

If I had took a motor that made no noises apart ...rebuilt it and now it rattles .... Then I would check the obvious 1st ................. What does mr HAYNES say

I would take the cam cover off and have a look at tappet clearance 1st then whip the tensioner off 2nd

the logic behind which way is varied ... I always fit them "flat" side in.....radius side out......just make sure they are all flat and clean ...."I use brake cleaner after scuffing them with scotch bright pad 1st." works for me...............

I used a stock length cam chain...manual tensioner ....C/R was 10:5 - 1 on the EFE one I did ..i could have gone another .5 with a thinner gasket I did another with a gsxr head that was nearer 11:5 - 1 But you really need to do a dry build to get the deck height and rest off the sums right to what you want...