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Posted

be great having a decent rider document the chassis set up / build :tu - be interesting to see if you prefer it - old school, stable but a bit slow on the turn on big wheels, or more modern - weight pushed fwd - quick steering response, smaller wheels etc..

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I would call my riding decent. :D

The bike was designed around crossply tyres and I guess and 18" rear, 16" front.    It will be set-up around modern supersport radials so the optimum rake, trail, swing arm pivot, weight distribution etc. will all be different.

Once I have a set off forks to hand I can see where we are.  Just found out how much it's gonna cost to have a decent set of forks built. Gulp.  Needs to be right though

 

  • Like 1
Posted

i'm a yr or so away from getting my modified magnum 3 on the road ( the mag 3 is close to the F1 chassis) your welcome to try the front end on it - as an option to help direction - should be a bolt on job - coupled with a bit more rear ride height + shifting the engine fwd ( your is about as far fwd as you can get ) it changed how the bike worked a lot! for the better

Its the 45mm fireblade fork front end tweaked by Maxton c/w the wide profile 16" front  - don't recall offset / trail but it manages the magic sweet spot of feeling like it will turn on a sixpence yet behaving very planted and stable ( not needing a steering damper ) - on the rare occasion it would shake but self correct before you think of it - this needed something like a rippled up inside corner to set it off - its a bit shorter than what was on the bike - again this adding to the front end biased feel

anyway - if its any use to you as a test - no worries - all you'd need is a fresh tyre on it 

Posted (edited)

Blasted.20180714_100015.thumb.jpg.3d499e5c5faff8b29e98c01b39627ae9.jpg

Given a quick once over.20180714_120109.thumb.jpg.4640d18b0dc99d530e557820cd2fd49a.jpg20180714_120121.thumb.jpg.22854bc9f879b347adca251b0d6b2144.jpg

 

 

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Bit of work to do, Remove some ugly added on brackets, and repair the subframe and lower rear engine mount which has been poorly modified when the water cooled motor was fitted.

I want to add a few brakets for an oil cooler, and lower middle engine mounts too. 

On the whole though, it's in really good nick.

Edited by dupersunc
  • Like 10
Posted

Nice one. If you give Harris the frame number, can they tell you what engine it was originally built to house? There is an old article in Motorcycle Mechanics Fortnightly on one of Jim Wells's 750 Kawasaki's with many great pics of the bike with the bodywork off, which would probably be of interest to you as the frame is almost identical to yours. I cannot remember which issue though, and I flogged all my old bike mags (8 boxes of them) about 6 years ago. Wells's bike did indeed have 16/18 inch wheels, and was about as minimalist as possible.

  • Like 1
Posted

The 1052 gear is 28 teeth, ive got one here Dunc:tu

I did ask Harris about the frame number, the reply was its a F1 race bike from the early 80's, but they didn't keep records of who bought them, he thinks it was for a kawaskii probably a 600 or 750 but wouldn't confirm or deny eitherO.o

 

anyway its looking ace Dunc, this is what i hoped to do when i bought it, glad you are doing it B|

 

Posted

I'll post the 26t gear to you this week Garry.

Looking at the engine mounts I'm fairly sure it was built for a gpz600 originally.

750 mounts seem quite different 

Posted
1 hour ago, dupersunc said:

I'll post the 26t gear to you this week Garry.

Looking at the engine mounts I'm fairly sure it was built for a gpz600 originally.

750 mounts seem quite different 

ill post the 28 tootth gear tomorrow:tu

Posted
1 hour ago, clivegto said:

@dupersuncare you leaving the frame like that what's the tin of wurth stuff ? I presume you have coated it with ? From what I have been told the old race frames where left bear to check for cracks.

I think I'm going to leave bare for the time being, just keep it coated with wd40 or the worth equivalent, a quick wipe down after each day s running should be enough.  

As you say leaving them bare makes it easier to check for and repair cracks, already spotted a couple of bits of braze that need repairing.

I really hate it when people clear coat frames like this, make repairs and inspection needlessly tricky.   It I do give up on keep rust at bay it will be painted in a pale grey that will show up any cracks that do appear more easily. 

  • Like 1
Posted

linseed oil etc.. works fine, the inhibitors are good - ref: acf50 - some of them tend to stain the metal with a phosphate coating - can look a bit yeucky hence using just  an oil - the chromoly will pit rust just from the smell of a wet fart

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

So, been a bit slack with this, but sourced lots of odds and ends, mostly stuff like bearing bolts, and fastners, oil line fittings, oil cooolers, shit that all adds in £££.  Spent some time machining up new spacers and bits for the engine mounts, and lots of bosses for mounts on the frame.

Also scored some XR69 bodywork.

Today I saw an old boy wandering past the workshop, who looked like he's 112 so probably old enough to know how to Bronze weld.20180814_125655.thumb.jpg.6cf0a6e354819ac7a9c092e1237d7458.jpg

Footwear is standard workshop attire round these parts.20180814_125706.thumb.jpg.7d16c6ead2ca0e1d4d6db61034883226.jpg

New lower engine mount bushes going in.  Fortunately Nick's dementia shakes mean his hands wobble at the perfect frequency to lay down lovely bronze fillets.

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Subframe put back to originalish spec.

20180814_141824.thumb.jpg.cbb8903fd948e441f991fabfde11ea2c.jpg20180814_141832.thumb.jpg.9518316c8ac892fd93d7b6c289acc357.jpg20180814_141840.thumb.jpg.abe48180e8dbf5bfadb01ec739d7f74a.jpg

 

New Oil cooler mounting bosses.

20180814_141900.thumb.jpg.3e8bf4685e25e155db5a312414d2ebc7.jpg

Exhaust hanger mounts

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Edited by dupersunc
  • Like 13
Posted

I'm trying to get this ready for a trip to Portimao in early October, but it may have to wait until Jerez in early December for it's debut.

To get it built in time I'm going to fit the Mistral built ex sidecar  1216cc motor I have on the shelf for this year, and build the 1052 based motor for next year.

I have just about everything on the shelf to build this up now, though some parts are still in sheet and tube form.  

The one stumbling block is the forks. I have a set of gsxr 750 j forks and yokes. The yokes are ok for now, I'll press in the Harris stem, and shave the castings down. once I'm happy I know what offset I want, I can decide if I want a pukka set of Harris yokes.

The fork legs them selves though need £1000-1200 throwing at them to get them to the spec that's worth having. I can't afford that currently.   I'm hoping for a tour round Classic team Suzuki workshops wearing a coat with very long pockets.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, dupersunc said:

I'm trying to get this ready for a trip to Portimao in early October, but it may have to wait until Jerez in early December for it's debut.

To get it built in time I'm going to fit the Mistral built ex sidecar  1216cc motor I have on the shelf for this year, and build the 1052 based motor for next year.

I have just about everything on the shelf to build this up now, though some parts are still in sheet and tube form.  

The one stumbling block is the forks. I have a set of gsxr 750 j forks and yokes. The yokes are ok for now, I'll press in the Harris stem, and shave the castings down. once I'm happy I know what offset I want, I can decide if I want a pukka set of Harris yokes.

The fork legs them selves though need £1000-1200 throwing at them to get them to the spec that's worth having. I can't afford that currently.   I'm hoping for a tour round Classic team Suzuki workshops wearing a coat with very long pockets.

 

LOl, & I actually did lough out loud.

Posted
On 8/14/2018 at 9:05 PM, dupersunc said:

 

The fork legs them selves though need £1000-1200 throwing at them to get them to the spec that's worth having.....

 

What spec are you going for?

Posted
23 hours ago, R1guy said:

What spec are you going for?

I've been spoke to Maxton about their sp20 cartridge kit which is @£500 plus fitting which takes a bit of machining @£140, springs £80 then new stantions @£180, bushes, oil, seals etc.  all plus vat.

I've just sourced a brand new pair of rf900 fork legs at a good price, the seller recommended Ktech cartridge kit over the Maxton, which is similar money. 

Posted

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Slowly, slowly the dry build begins.

It's slow process as just about ever bracket, spacer and mount needs  designing and making from scratch.20180823_162542.thumb.jpg.e96adb5d9b4c58a7cdb552bacb099224.jpg

Oil cooler brackets roughed out.

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  • Like 7

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