HPF1

[nlovien]

be great having a decent rider document the chassis set up / build  - be interesting to see if you prefer it - old school, stable but a bit slow on the turn on big wheels, or more modern - weight pushed fwd - quick steering response, smaller wheels etc..

 

[dupersunc]

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Edited July 29 by dupersunc

[nlovien]

i'm a yr or so away from getting my modified magnum 3 on the road ( the mag 3 is close to the F1 chassis) your welcome to try the front end on it - as an option to help direction - should be a bolt on job - coupled with a bit more rear ride height + shifting the engine fwd ( your is about as far fwd as you can get ) it changed how the bike worked a lot! for the better

Its the 45mm fireblade fork front end tweaked by Maxton c/w the wide profile 16" front  - don't recall offset / trail but it manages the magic sweet spot of feeling like it will turn on a sixpence yet behaving very planted and stable ( not needing a steering damper ) - on the rare occasion it would shake but self correct before you think of it - this needed something like a rippled up inside corner to set it off - its a bit shorter than what was on the bike - again this adding to the front end biased feel

anyway - if its any use to you as a test - no worries - all you'd need is a fresh tyre on it 

[dupersunc]

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Edited July 29 by dupersunc

[nlovien]

good stuff, going to really appreciate your feed back on how you set it up

 

[dupersunc]

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Edited July 29 by dupersunc

[Dezza]

Nice one. If you give Harris the frame number, can they tell you what engine it was originally built to house? There is an old article in Motorcycle Mechanics Fortnightly on one of Jim Wells's 750 Kawasaki's with many great pics of the bike with the bodywork off, which would probably be of interest to you as the frame is almost identical to yours. I cannot remember which issue though, and I flogged all my old bike mags (8 boxes of them) about 6 years ago. Wells's bike did indeed have 16/18 inch wheels, and was about as minimalist as possible.

[Dezza]

Yep, that is the article I was droning on about

[fatblokeonbandit]

The 1052 gear is 28 teeth, ive got one here Dunc

I did ask Harris about the frame number, the reply was its a F1 race bike from the early 80's, but they didn't keep records of who bought them, he thinks it was for a kawaskii probably a 600 or 750 but wouldn't confirm or deny either

 

anyway its looking ace Dunc, this is what i hoped to do when i bought it, glad you are doing it

 

[dupersunc]

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Edited July 29 by dupersunc

[fatblokeonbandit]

1 hour ago, dupersunc said:

I'll post the 26t gear to you this week Garry.

Looking at the engine mounts I'm fairly sure it was built for a gpz600 originally.

750 mounts seem quite different 

ill post the 28 tootth gear tomorrow

[clivegto]

@dupersuncare you leaving the frame like that what's the tin of wurth stuff ? I presume you have coated it with ? From what I have been told the old race frames where left bear to check for cracks.

[dupersunc]

On 7/18/2018 at 5:13 PM, clivegto said:

 

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Edited July 29 by dupersunc

[Gammaboy]

A mate of mine uses CRC Soft seal on all the steel stuff he works on so that it doesn't flash rust in QLD humidity - I dunno how usefull it would be on a bike frame though.

https://www.crcindustries.com.au/products/corrosion-protection-and-inhibitors/soft-seal-corrosion-inhibitor

 

Edited July 19, 2018 by Gammaboy

[KATANAMANGLER]

ACF50 is is an excellent rust inhibitor. I use it on my winter bike. Give it a good covering, leave it for 30 minutes and then wipe off any excess.

[nlovien]

linseed oil etc.. works fine, the inhibitors are good - ref: acf50 - some of them tend to stain the metal with a phosphate coating - can look a bit yeucky hence using just  an oil - the chromoly will pit rust just from the smell of a wet fart

[dupersunc]

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Edited July 29 by dupersunc

[dupersunc]

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Edited July 29 by dupersunc

[Mar71n]

15 hours ago, dupersunc said:

I'm trying to get this ready for a trip to Portimao in early October, but it may have to wait until Jerez in early December for it's debut.

To get it built in time I'm going to fit the Mistral built ex sidecar  1216cc motor I have on the shelf for this year, and build the 1052 based motor for next year.

I have just about everything on the shelf to build this up now, though some parts are still in sheet and tube form.  

The one stumbling block is the forks. I have a set of gsxr 750 j forks and yokes. The yokes are ok for now, I'll press in the Harris stem, and shave the castings down. once I'm happy I know what offset I want, I can decide if I want a pukka set of Harris yokes.

The fork legs them selves though need £1000-1200 throwing at them to get them to the spec that's worth having. I can't afford that currently.   I'm hoping for a tour round Classic team Suzuki workshops wearing a coat with very long pockets.

 

LOl, & I actually did lough out loud.

[R1guy]

On 8/14/2018 at 9:05 PM, dupersunc said:

 

The fork legs them selves though need £1000-1200 throwing at them to get them to the spec that's worth having.....

 

What spec are you going for?

[Gixer1460]

Thought I recognised that frame colour in the 1st post...........

 

[dupersunc]

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Edited July 29 by dupersunc

[dupersunc]

 

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Edited July 29 by dupersunc

[SiBag]

Funky idea for the cooler brackets.  

[dupersunc]

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Edited July 29 by dupersunc