Reelinfeele Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 What is the trick? impact wrench, heat, hammer, luck. any tips Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Put some weight on the extractor, then give it a good smack with a dead blow hammer. She'll pop right off! 2 Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Disagree - a dead blow is like tickling it. It sounds medieval but a good Club or decent sized Ball Pein is needed to shock the taper free - and it'll sound like a gunshot if its that tight! 4 Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Basically hit it (the extractor that is) hard may take 1/2 or 3 hits but it will pop off, just look out for the bits in the back piping out (springs etc) Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 (edited) 6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said: Disagree - a dead blow is like tickling it. It sounds medieval but a good Club or decent sized Ball Pein is needed to shock the taper free - and it'll sound like a gunshot if its that tight! I normally use a big fuck-off mash hammer (belonging to me 'auld Dad), but I couldn't tell him that. Didn't want to scare the lad! Edited December 7, 2016 by Swiss Toni 1 Quote Link to comment
neil w Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 We broke a genuine suzuki Flywheel puller on mine , in the end we built a very heavy duty model which did the trick along with a belt on the end from a very large lump hammer Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Don't use a flywheel puller, screw a bolt in the flywheel, M16 fine tread, buy both fine ones to be sure, use rattle gun, if it doesn't come off then, bash the head off the bolt with a big hammer (while bolt is under tension off the rattle gun attempt), comes off straight away. Quote Link to comment
dago Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 tighten extractor up really tight then a couple of hit on end of extractor with large cub hammer. i stripped the the fine threads using a rattle gun Quote Link to comment
Screwriverracing Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Get someone else to do it. Cheers SRR 1 Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 On 2/16/2017 at 10:02 PM, Reinhoud said: Don't use a flywheel puller, screw a bolt in the flywheel, M16 fine tread, buy both fine ones to be sure, use rattle gun, if it doesn't come off then, bash the head off the bolt with a big hammer (while bolt is under tension off the rattle gun attempt), comes off straight away. I was thinking after I posted this, doesn't has the GSX has a different end on the crank then a GS? Doesn't the end of the crank from a GSX sticks out of the flywheel? If that's the case the trick with the bolt in the flywheel doesn't work... Quote Link to comment
Fetishkat Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 it seems the bearings behind my rotor might be on their way out and so i'll have this same joy! What size is the puller i need to buy please? Quote Link to comment
markfoggy Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Ok, these have been on for a while and experience over the last couple of years suggests this method. Been 8 motors involved so I know my onions now. Only worth attempting this with the frame on a solid surface, forget it with the wheels on. Get the right puller, get it on tight and then put a scaffold bar on the end of the driver, think T drive. Hang 50 kg off the end of the 2m scaffold pole, making sure that the frame doesn't rotate off the bench. Shoot it with lots of plus gas or equivalent. Leave it to cook, then shoot more plus gas at it and repeat at 2 hour intervals for 24 hours. Sneak up on it with an Oxy torch, when the bastards not looking and fiercely heat the inside of the hub. When you think that it is just about to go cherry red, relax. Walk, withershins (anti-clockwise) around the bike 3 times, cosseting the biggest lump hammer in your possession. Don't let it see the hammer., Oh, No. As the smoke subsides, strike it once, quoting the phrase 'By the power of Odin'. and it will pop right off 2 Quote Link to comment
Fetishkat Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 Cheers matey, do I have to wear the flowing robes with the hood up or down??? Quote Link to comment
maxwin Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 I have removed loads of these on my 750ET engines with the following method... The little stud gets screwed into the crank and then I fill that void with grease (to give uniform pressure) screw in the larger stud to the flywheel bit and tighten it with an impact wrench. Thread sizes are in the picture... 2 Quote Link to comment
johnr Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 On 24/04/2017 at 10:53 PM, markfoggy said: Ok, these have been on for a while and experience over the last couple of years suggests this method. Been 8 motors involved so I know my onions now. Only worth attempting this with the frame on a solid surface, forget it with the wheels on. Get the right puller, get it on tight and then put a scaffold bar on the end of the driver, think T drive. Hang 50 kg off the end of the 2m scaffold pole, making sure that the frame doesn't rotate off the bench. Shoot it with lots of plus gas or equivalent. Leave it to cook, then shoot more plus gas at it and repeat at 2 hour intervals for 24 hours. Sneak up on it with an Oxy torch, when the bastards not looking and fiercely heat the inside of the hub. When you think that it is just about to go cherry red, relax. Walk, withershins (anti-clockwise) around the bike 3 times, cosseting the biggest lump hammer in your possession. Don't let it see the hammer., Oh, No. As the smoke subsides, strike it once, quoting the phrase 'By the power of Odin'. and it will pop right off and that, gentlemen, is fucking doing it oldskool! 3 Quote Link to comment
Fetishkat Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Cheers for your help in the methodology!!!!! But I still need to know what size puller do I need to buy before I attach the scaffold tube to it? Quote Link to comment
Gammaboy Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 On 25/04/2017 at 7:05 AM, Fetishkat said: it seems the bearings behind my rotor might be on their way out and so i'll have this same joy! What size is the puller i need to buy please? It depends - Big crank end? Little crank end? Big rotor? Little Rotor? Quote Link to comment
Fetishkat Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Thanks Gammaboy. Its on an 82 GSX1100 EZ if that's any help? Quote Link to comment
Gammaboy Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 I think that'll be a 35x1.5mm threaded puller. 1 Quote Link to comment
arnout Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Hmm.. Hasn't anyone tried converting the rotor puller into a hydraulic powered one yet? I've struggled with removing the rotor in the past too, but managed to get it off using a home built puller much like the available ones.. But it seems an obvious step to look at other means to provide the pulling force rather than a big bolt.. I reckon it shouldn't be too hard of a job to weld a common bottle car jack to the puller using some steel straps, and replace the bolt with some sort of simple push rod.. Perhaps the bottle jack cannot be placed entirely horizontal for it to function properly, but leaning the bike over a bit should sort that issue.. Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) Don't think a bottle jack's feasable. The only thing I can envisage, using the pulling gear, would be a jack head with a hole to pass the draw bolt through it Only problem there is, you'd be pulling and pushing against the rotor. Bit like standing in a bucket and trying to lift it by the handle! Edited May 10, 2017 by Swiss Toni Speelinge 1 Quote Link to comment
Wilf Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 As has been pointed out several times in this post, it's only sitting on a taper but over time they almost stick together. The only way to split them is shock. Put the puller on and load it up, TIGHT, then give it a damn good crack on the end. It may take several blows but if you hit it hard and square it will separate. Just the same as track rod / drag link ends. Remember to hit it not tickle it! 1 Quote Link to comment
KATANAMANGLER Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 On 2017-4-24 at 10:53 PM, markfoggy said: Ok, these have been on for a while and experience over the last couple of years suggests this method. Been 8 motors involved so I know my onions now. Only worth attempting this with the frame on a solid surface, forget it with the wheels on. Get the right puller, get it on tight and then put a scaffold bar on the end of the driver, think T drive. Hang 50 kg off the end of the 2m scaffold pole, making sure that the frame doesn't rotate off the bench. Shoot it with lots of plus gas or equivalent. Leave it to cook, then shoot more plus gas at it and repeat at 2 hour intervals for 24 hours. Sneak up on it with an Oxy torch, when the bastards not looking and fiercely heat the inside of the hub. When you think that it is just about to go cherry red, relax. Walk, withershins (anti-clockwise) around the bike 3 times, cosseting the biggest lump hammer in your possession. Don't let it see the hammer., Oh, No. As the smoke subsides, strike it once, quoting the phrase 'By the power of Odin'. and it will pop right off My routine is similar other than the fact that I substitute "the power of Odin" with " by Hanma Shin's tadger I compel you" 1 Quote Link to comment
johnr Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 just to clarify scott, do you have to be wearing a white yoshimura lab coat when doing this, or will it work if im only sporting my boiler suit? 3 Quote Link to comment
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